eugene

Thanks, Daniel! No longer needed.

Looking to replace my fuel/amp gauge in my 75 280z with a fuel/volts gauge from the later 280z. Let me know if you can help me out. Thanks

Got my speedo and tach just like I wanted and when I was expecting them. Steven is a great guy for doing this and very easy to work with. Thanks again!

Interested in the 4" dual gauge and 4" quad gauge kit, GR4-DUAL-GPSQKIT-ST-03T sending you a pm now

Yeah, it seems thats the way to go. I did it at work real quick one day before I went home. This time I'll do it at home and be more careful. Might even try and check torque this time. I'll post back with my results, hopefully soon. Thanks for the tip.

Thanks, I guess I'm gonna try to make it work with 1 spring plate per side. I didn't like how tight it was with the 6 clutches, but all I did was measure the clutches and spacers, no testing or shimming was done. I don't know if it was binding due to incorrect thickness which caused breakage, or if incorrect install caused breakage and resulted in binding. It was probably the latter! Thanks for the link.

I broke two adjacent ears off of one of my spring plates installing extra clutches. So far I haven't been able to source a replacement part. Any thoughts on just using one spring plate per side. I plan to make the overall clutch stack measurement match with shims/extra clutches. I think the progressive action of the diff should be affected, but imagine having the same breakaway would result in similar driveability. Any good reason not to try this? I still have the original 2 clutches and spacers, along with the 6 replacement clutches sold by savage42. I am wondering how much the spring compresses. I imagine the stack should be a small amount thinner

I have struck out everywhere I've looked. I broke the ears off of one spring plate while assembling. This piece looks just like a drive plate, but is conical and goes at the outside of each clutch stack. NLA from Nissan and no luck finding aftermarket.

this one? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/68484-blocked-off-the-lower-half-of-my-grill/

Looking for a cheap front crossmember, can be rusted or damaged, needs to be cheap. Will need to ship to 30087. Thanks, -Jason

Can I assume you still have some left. If so, I want one.

I wonder if this has been done before; I've never seen it. All of the roll cages I've seen have seemed to be a compromise between structural integrity and interior comfort/appearance. Due to the fact that they can be viewed as an independent structure that is built within the confines of the cabin. For safety reasons I would like a cage in my 280, but since it will be a daily driver, I really don't want it restricting interior space. I was wondering if I could construct a cage that was completely integral with the body; for instance, the main hoops would actually be completely welded to the pillars, the roof, the firewall, and the frame rails. All efforts would be aimed at finding a sound design that would transfer loads properly, without invading cabin space by more than the diameter of the tubing. Basically you would be building an inner support structure for the existing body, which would seem to make it stronger than a support structure that is mostly within the body. But the main reason for this idea is that most of the cage could be out of view, and you could go so far as to build a custom interior that covered most of it up. There's still the problem of side impact support impeding entry and exit, I also have no idea if this kind of design would be approved for different racing events, but I'm curious if it's been done before. I know it would be A LOT more labor intensive, but seems like it would be worth it in the end!

The stock motor just doesn't do it for me: 75 280 JTR conversion: 91 stock 350, holley street avenger intake, 600 vac sec., block huggers, 2 1/4s into single 3 inch mandrel bent exhaust 700r4(2,000 stall locking converter), 3.54 open r200 Don't get me wrong, I'm somewhat pleased with the increase in power, and it is a good daily driver, very quiet with the resonator in the tunnel. However, it kills me to know that there is so much more available power, and I'd like to extract some of that power without spending too much money. My question: I figure it is about 250 hp right now. Can I get 350hp or more with a cam change and maintain good daily driveability? I need more info on the heads (casting # 14102193) and block (casting # 10054727, K0219UKA) Mortec says 350 heads 1.94 / 1.50 valves, but no info on flow or chamber size. The motor is stock, so I am guessing pretty low compression ratio. I would like a good launch and strong power band from 2K to 6K . Since I have a decent flowing intake, exhaust combo, I figure the only remaining variable for a cam choice to complement my intention is the head info. If I can get 350 hp with just a cam change, I'd be really happy. If I have to change heads I'll just have to wait on it. I could probably swing some stamped roller rockers too. Does anybody have more info on these heads or know where I can find it? All I want is 100 hp, that's not too much to ask, is it?

Thanks for the tips! Any recommendations on good books for tuning and troubleshooting Holleys? I work on fuel injected vehicles every day, carburetors are new to me. I think you may be onto something with the transfer slot because the car runs way too rich. I can't get it below 2% CO at idle or it dies returning to idle after acceleration. I need an information resource to help me start over with it and select jet size, power valve, etc. to get this thing running efficiently. I may go EFI someday but the novelty of working with a carburetor hasn't worn off yet, and it's so damn easy to work on that any changes would be quick and easy, I just need a guide to help me troubleshoot. I've found a lot of books and manuals, I guess I just want to know which ones have been helpful with other people.

I'm having trouble timing my engine: late model 350 w/ stock cam, holley 600 vac sec, HEI w/ adjustable vac adv How much vaccuum should my ported signal have at idle? Shouldn't it be little or none? Mine has 9 in. at idle and 22 in. on accel. This is causing extreme timing advance at idle(14 deg. above initial timing). The only way to get a decent timing curve is to retard the initial timing. Is this a carb problem or a vac adv diaphragm problem? It's a new Accel adjustable vac adv unit. I don't get any change in the advance at idle after adjusting the diaphragm back. Also, I need a good Holley tuning book. I bought one by Dave Emanuel that ended up being more of a history lesson. I need one that's heavy on the tuning and troubleshooting. Any recommendations?