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seth1001

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  1. I'm not sure exactly what you're getting at. You seem to be implying that you can run a megasquirt box triggering off the coil negative with an MSD ignition system, which as I explained is not possible...for the reason I explained. I think you may have misread what I was saying. It's true the megasquirt can trigger off of a coil negative, VR, or hall sensor; though the board would have to be reconfigured for each one. The issue is simply that it wasn't working that way on my car. The coil negative wouldn't trigger the computer at all and the VR put out a very unreliable signal. And I don't have a hall sensor in my ignition system. Now I've got the MSD box, which WAS able to trigger off the VR, and the megasquirt receiving the tach signal from the MSD box's tach output. My problem now is that there's some kind of interference in the system, and I can't figure out if it's starting at the VR or coming from the MSD box or both. And because of that fact, I don't really have any idea how to go about fixing it.
  2. That wiring scheme is actually not possible with an MSD box. The multiple spark discharge fires the coil multiple times for every spark discharge. If you wired the Megasquirt box to the coil negative with that setup, the megasquirt would think your engine rpms were about 4 times higher than they really were, which is why every MSD box has it's own RPM output which is what I'm using. It puts out the exact same square wave 12v signal that the megasquirt is looking for. I actually HAD to use the MSD because my megasquirt refused to fire off of the coil negative pre-msd box...presumably because there was too much noise in the electrical system. I don't have the money or justification to buy an oscilliscope at this point so...that's where we are. In response to the comment about the alternator, actually I just installed a brand new alternator about 2 months ago. I'm planning on getting some magnecor wires and a new coil to reduce noise but I can't imagine that alone would solve such extreme RPM spikes. Would a battery negative grounding kit increase noise?...I've got one of those on there. I don't have any idea what else could be causing so much noise in the system.
  3. It's not running off the coil negative with my setup. The MSD box is being triggered off the VR and the Megasquirt is being triggered off of the MSD box.
  4. I've spent the last 7 or 8 months working on my 1980 280zx NA...so far I've got MS3 v3.0 in there and it's working for the most part. Anyway, I could never get the stock distributor to get a tach signal to the MS3...it just wouldn't work. So I ended up getting an MSD 6al box to generate the tach signal and hopefully improve performance albeit slightly. For the most part it's been promising, but I'm having a huge problem with RPM spikes going to the MS3. I've driven the car a lot and come to the conclusion that the problem lies outside of the MS3 settings. I've tweaked the RPM lagging but the spikes are too intense to get around it that way. I also disabled the fuel cut to see if that helped...not so much. Basically it happens whenever I up the load, or up the RPM, or both. I can't drive the car above 2500 without getting spikes up to 30,000 rpms showing up in tunerstudio. It also happens a lot when I up the load, even if the RPM's are below 2000 or so. The rpms spike and the engine bogs down. So...that's the situation. The forum wouldn't let me upload so here's a link to the log file. Any suggestions for me? Thanks. http://www.mediafire.com/?ylma6va2rlrh48s
  5. Yeah I had it hooked up the post the whole time...Nothing is working to get an rpm signal to this thing...It's getting to the point where I don't understand how people are buying these things when it's such a pain in the ass to get them to work.
  6. It should be easier but apparently it's not. But looks like the VR setup isn't working either. It's really starting to piss me off. I've got the thing working fine on the stimulator and the spark is working fine on the car...I just can't getting any damn RPM signal to the MS. Also the FSM doesn't identify which wire is positive and which is negative...but it says the green wire goes to the "spark timing signal monitoring circuit" so I figured that was the one...but it didn't work. Moby: my logic is that if I can't get this thing to work on "fuel only", there's no reason to think it will work as fuel and spark. Plus I really don't like working with distributors because my understanding is not good enough to not destroy the engine while I'm dicking with it...and changing the distributor has got to be harder than getting this thing to work...but that balance shifts with every failure.
  7. I've given up on getting RPM from the coil (-) on my 1980 280zx. It just won't work. So now I'm going to try and trigger it off of the reluctor. Does anybody know how I'm supposed to get to that thing? And how I'm supposed to wire it up? I've never messed with the dizzy before so I'd like to know what I'm looking for before I go digging in there. Some pictures would be great. It's an N/A...by the way. Thanks.
  8. No I just meant nothing from the megasquirt connected to the positive side. I've confirmed that I'm getting spark to the plugs and voltage to pin 24 on the harness. Everything is set up correctly according to the guy from diyautotune...but still no rpm. I guess I'll have to set it up for VR input and pull RPM off the distributor.
  9. Well I finally have everything wired up in my car. All the sensors are giving good readings and everything seems to be fine...but I still can't get any RPM indication with the megasquirt. Given my history of making little errors here and there I assume it has to have something to do with how I've got it wired. I'm running FUEL ONLY on a STOCK 1980 280ZX. I confirmed the board was good with the stim...though I had to jumper D2 to get a signal with the stim. I've tried it on the car both jumpered and unjumpered at the advice of one of the megasquirt guys from diyautotune. Still nothing. I've got pin24 (the grey IGN wire) running to the coil (-) and nothing else. Nothing going to the positive side...and nothing connected to pin36. I've confirmed continuity and that the plugs are firing. I've read all related posts and I've looked at every wiring picture in existence...and since nothing really matches my configuration...I haven't been able to be sure it's correct. Is this how it's supposed to be wired?
  10. How do I do that?....What should I wire it to?
  11. Hey fellas, I just finished wiring up my MS3 V3.0 into my 1980 280zx N/A...and needless to say it's not going too well so far. I'm gonna break down the issues into phases so it's easier to see the timeline of problems. Keep in mind that at some points there were some obvious problems but they were minor in nature so I was willing to move forward just to see if I could get the thing to idle. Phase 1: Before attempting to start Here my main issue was the coolant temperature sensor. I just used the stock sensor but I had trouble calibrating it. The values I input from this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/57800-280z-coolant-temp-sensor-values-for-easytherm/page__p__527871__hl__%2Bcoolant+%2B280z__fromsearch__1#entry527871 did not work right...it was reading at like...215 degrees F when it should have been around 60. So I got out the FSM and input the values from the graph for the 1980...still didn't come out quite right. So then I tweaked the bias resistor value until I got the megasquirt to read somewhere around 60...not the best approach but again...I just wanted to see if I could get the thing to start. Anyway...does anybody know what the values should be?...Or should I just get a new sensor from autozone? Phase 2: First start attempt No rpm indication. I figured it was something stupid...like...I hooked up the wrong wire to the negative terminal...which I'm pretty sure I did. I went back at looked at the diagram on this link: "http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/hardware.html#wiring" then I saw that it was pin36 that went to the coil (-)...but the wire colors didn't match...I saw on another drawing that it was a grey wire...so I thought the grey shielded IGN wire was the thing to hook up there...anyway...I swapped it to the pin 36 wire and tried again Phase 3: Second attempt When I first turned the key to IGN...the fuel pump kicked on and wouldn't go off...seemed weird so I killed the IGN and clicked it back on...pump went off...so I guess that's good. Cranked it a little to see what would happen...NO RPM indication but the engine fired and started idling...albeit quite roughly...I think it may have been burning fuel already in the cylinder cause without RPM the megasquirt shouldn't be firing the injectors at all...anyway...then the engine died and the garage stunk of gas from the rich burn and the fuel pump refused to kick on again...it might be broken...never got any RPM indication...also the power to the MS kicks off if I crank too long. Which makes sense because even in modern cars pretty much everything loses power when the starter is running...so I'm a little confused as to how its supposed to work while starting. Anyway, I've got the board all set up for coil negative rpm and I got it to work with the stim. In order to get it working I had to jump the D2 diode because the stim didn't have enough voltage to push through it. I pulled the jumper off when I put it in the car because it's my understanding that that's what you're supposed to do. Any thoughts on the RPM not showing up? I wired the power for the MS and my wideband sensor to the ignition switched wire going to Fuel Pump relay #2...any thoughts on that?...Is it...good? I'm really not sure...I couldn't really find any recommendations on where to get power so I just stared at the wiring diagram in the FSM until I found something that seemed reasonable. So that's about it...I'm fairly stuck right now...don't really know what to try at this point. I might think of something eventually but it would surely move quicker if you guys could point me in the right direction. Thanks. PS. Sorry it's a long post
  12. Well here's something interesting. I clipped the wires that go to the individual fuel injectors after reinstalling the dropping resistors and all that. Then I turned on the ignition so I could check the voltage and figure out which wire I should connect to the megasquirt...but both wires were testing at 13V...I don't know what's going on here...I guess I should take a look at the wiring diagram but that things a pain in the ass to look at. Does anybody know how I determine which wire to hook to the megasquirt?
  13. I think the turbos didn't have them because they had different injectors that didn't require them...
  14. Oh that's right...it should just be the "-" wire on the injectors that routes back to the ECU...makes sense...Any comment on the firewall routing?
  15. Moby: Yeah the ZX's all had dropping resistors as far as I know. Well that simplifies matters. I've tested the resistors and they're still putting out 6 ohms of resistance so I guess I'll just hook them and and splice the wires at the injectors. I don't really like the idea of using the old wires but I guess it's okay. I also don't like having to use the old EFI computer to put out the voltage to the resistors...but as long as it works I guess. The wiring for everything else is pretty much self-explanitory but I'm still not sure how I should get the wires past the firewall. I've done some searching but haven't found anything good yet. What did you guys do? Did you drill new holes or use ones that were already there? Also I've heard that wide-band O2 sensors have some issues with interference...did you guys have to drill a separate hole for the O2 sensor wire and kind of...keep it separate from the other cables or something?
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