Jeri_74_260Z

oh trust me I know that there are better cams out there, I'm just kinda amused at the thought of having a true nismo cam setup, like I said I've heard that the C cam was a nismo one but the C2 mark intrigues me.

Hey guys, I have a really stupid newbie question for y'all. I've been doing some research on different L26/E88 part combos and am kinda stumped on something. the cam that came in my '74 260Z is stock and original as far as I know. I checked the end of the cam and yes it does have the C mark on it, but there's also a 2 next to it..... This has me sorta scratching my head as I've seen all sorta of references to the C marking but can't seem to find anything that talks about a C2 cam.. I've attached a pic, if anybody could shed some light on this I'd really appreciate it, hopefully this IS a C cam as I was kinda hoping to build a slightly above stock motor. thanks guys.

Hey guys, I'm currently looking at a pile of random SU parts from different sources trying to mix and match for the best possible combination and wanted your input. Right now I have a set of 3 screw SU's out of a 72 240 that are missing their dip sticks, but I do have dip sticks out of a set of flat tops, will those work or are they a different length? I'm planning to use an N36 intake manifold with these and use original JDM non-emissions balance tube I was able to track down (I live in FL where they don't require inspections so I'm gonna be eliminating all the egr/ emmisions stuff). I already have the correct carb spacers and studs on the N36's, I'm assuming that I'll need to get different carb needles though. Any suggestions for which needles I should use? A part # would be fantastic. thanks alot guys.

Well I don't really remember where I got those floors from, got them about 5-6 years ago and they had been sitting along with the car at my folks place ever since. I get what you mean about the stiching and that's more or less what I had been going for, I guess I was maybe doing them a bit too close together and that makkes them appear as if they were attempted beads.

Thanks I'll try slowing down a bit, already have the amps set to the lowest setting. Like I said this is the first time I have done any welding, any advice I'll take. For the non visible stuff I'm gonna stick with flux core wire, I do have a tank of c-25 argon/co2 for when I staart doing the outer body panels and what not but that's a bit far down the road here.

Oh no worries, it's still in the testing for fit stage, right before I start welding I'm gonna grind everything down to bare metal and/or chemical rust conversion/encapsulation for spots I can't get at that well. With the FL humidity and all I didn't want to grind everything clean and then have more rust form while I was hammering/cutting/fitting the piece in.

I told myself last night I was gonna take a break and not work on the Z today... Well that idea went out the window pretty quick... more progress, check it out.

Hey thanks for the heads up dude. Oh, can you tell me if the lower rocker panel on the driver's side on that car was chopped up or all there? Also what shape was the pass fender in? Bondo-ed up or solid? Upap is a bit of a drive for me so I don't want to waste the trip thanks

Been working on the 260 off and on for a bit now (sadly I can't quite my job and work on her 24/7), progress has been slow but I never thought this would be a fast/easy endeavor. I'm learning a LOT as I go along and would like to say my welding is getting better with each consecutive piece I put in. Be kind when you see the pics as this was more or less the first time I ever did any welding, still proud of the work I've gotten done though, luckily this is the sort of stuff that's gonna be hidden by other panels/interior panels/undercoating.. So far I got the messed up inner rocker panel patched , as well as the outer rocker where the fender bolts up. also started working on the driver's floor the other day, that's gonna take a bit of work as the floor pan replacement I got was pretty simple, nothing like the zedd findings pans, but what can you ask for at $80? I also decided to lengthen the frame rail to go full length and up the riser behind the driver's seat as the back area where it attaches was pretty rusted and not much was left to weld to once all was chopped out, luckily I have enough rail left over once that was done to do the same on the passenger's side. thanks for looking, will post more as progress gets made.

LOL!!!!!!! I checked out this EXACT car at some dude's place a week ago via a craigslist add..... I didn't pull anything that day and when I called him back he told me it was sold to a guy in georgia .... that's kinda funny though, the guy was asking waaaayyyyy too much for parts off it ($200 for a single rear wheel arch/quarter panel) that's funny as hell. Sadly from what I remember, while the arches looked good, the dog leg panels had been attacked by the "Great Bondini". Floors were perfect on it though the front frame rails were totally toast Thanks for the heads up bro, I'll head over there tomorrow, need to grab some random bolts and other bits.

Went to the LKQ today, battery saw in hand ready to go. had called ahead and was assured the car was there by one of their guys. got there to find it was "still there" just sitting on the bottom of the stack of about to be crushed cars T_T

Thanks for the heads up, I'll check LKQ but I doubt the car's still there, those guys tend to crush everything after only a week in the yard (only cars I've ever seen them let sit for longer than that are stuff like old corvettes and the like). Yeah I know my car's pretty far gone but there is a bit of an emotional/sentimental attachment to it, so I really want to try and bring this one back... already have repair panels/ donor car sections for everywhere else just need the wheel arches at the moment.

Hey guys. I'm trying to track down a pair of decent rear quarter wheel arch/ dog leg panels off an original Z car. I've attached images of the car to better show exactly what I need cut. I know that there are aftermarket pieces available but If possible I'd much rather use original steel as I've heard the replacements aren't always the best when it comes to overall material quality etc. I'm located in Central FL and would be more than willing to drive out and cut/ grind the sections off myself if anybody has a parts car in the area. Thanks guys!

I picked it up in the Saratoga Springs area. Right now I'm right near Orlando. at the moment she's more or less down to a rolling shell after getting the rear diff and fuel/brake hard lines pulled out today. project's gonna be on hold while I secure a welder so I can put braces in strategic spots before I begin really cutting into her. My plan is to start with the front frame rail repairs, then the rockers, floors, and finally rear wheel arches. I'm sure though I'll find more that needs to be addressed but I'm pretty confident I've identified all the "major" cancer spots.

6 Years ago I fell in love with a 74 260z. Rather than get into specifics as to it's overall condition I'll say this; it only cost me $350......yeeeeeeah, I think y'all can imagine it's overall state. But I saw potential in her... I got her home and proceeded to start pulling her apart, learning much as time went on. But then, life threw a curve ball and we were separated by 1500 miles due to a sudden job opportunity. She sat at my folks place up in NY, gathering dust and cob webbs, waiting... Finally I managed to secure a permanent work space down here and after some negotiations got transport arranged. Now we're back together and the work can begin anew. There are some places that on re-examination are much better rust wise than I remembered, and then there are areas that are much much worse than I had thought. It's gonna be a long road I'm sure, but I'm confident that someday I'll have her back in one piece running down the salt free roads here in sunny FL. I'll definitely be coming to you guys here for advice and guidance as the project goes on. thanks in advance gang.