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bry593

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About bry593

  • Birthday 08/15/1970

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  1. i agree, that is the sharpest aftermarket Z hood i've seen. the Z28 style works well with the original lines. i really dislike extra tall and squarish cowls. they just look awkward on a Z. that's good that you have the innerstructure. its gotta be there for rigidity, longevity (resists sag) and is the only way you can keep the factory hinges and latch. did you put doublers in the hinge and latch area? are you having pretty good success with contours matching the fenders? with the z, the nose isn't so much a bother since it doesn't meet with an adjacent panel. how much clearance does this buy you over the factory hood? is this gel/chopper or gel/mat? i used to design and manage a composite tooling shop, but we were aircraft (epoxy, autoclave). anyway, the hood looks great!
  2. the moroso air cleaner is the lowest you can get in a 14" element. however, if you tried that little triangle foam element job, and it didn't work, then the moroso won't work either. here's what you need to do. put an air cleaner on the car, and then put little cylindrical pieces of clay on top of the lid. close your hood and pinpoint the tight areas. based on this, you can tell whether the 1/2" spacers between the crossmember and unibody frame rails will be sufficient. if not, you have no choice but to revise the mounts (or go cowl hood). by the way, you may be running a performer rpm manifold. this is a full 1/2 taller than a standard performer. so maybe, you could swap manifolds, throw in the spacers and be where you need to be. i resist the temptation to put a fiberglass hood on my Z. my past experiences with aftermarket glass is that it requires lots of trimming, does not work well with factory hardware, and doesn't fit. chopped polyester tends to warp if pulled out of the mold while hot. i haven't tried the Z hood, my experience is with early camaros. eventually, someone will make a decent glass scoop/cowl/etc that will match the Z's lines and be a rivet from underneath with aluminum backer. This would require a mult-piece mold to have the negative (reverse flanges) for a clean install. bonding fiberglass to metal, it just don't work... at least not for long (unless you use expoxy).
  3. 17x9.5 won't work very well on a Z. save yourself some grief and get 16x8 with a 12 to 15mm offset... this should clear everything on a stock or lowered z. ZX's could probably use a 9.5, as they have more fenderwheel than a z..... this is based on personal experience with 16x8 0 offset on a '72 240z. this setup has 3/4" clearance on rear coilovers and slightly more on front coilovers (hence the 12mm offset for stock Z). unfortunately, with 0-offset, tires will hit front wheel arch (unless you have an air-dam), rear tires will hit fender lip on a lowered Z (even if you rolled the lip). stock rear height will not hit if you run 26.1 trim height and 200 lb/in spring. anyway, that's the truth..... spend your money however you see fit..... personally, i dig the Rota RB and would have bought a set had they been available in 16x8 +12ET....
  4. wow!!!! whomever is doing the fabrication on this is hella good!!! i'm an engineer and am pretty damn picky about this sorta thing, but i have to say DAAAYYYYUUUUMMMMM!!!! these guys are right on!!!! very impressive!
  5. i'm running 16x8 0ET, 225/50/16, 12" coilovers, stock length struts on a '72 240z... no problems up front, hits fender lip in back. there is 3/4" clearance between rear coilover and wheel/tire. there is more than 3/4 up front. with this combo, forget about lowering.... ain't gonna happen unless you cut out the fender arch... ideal would be a +12 offset (or +15 but i've never seen a +15 wheel) with a 16x8" wheel. 17's should behave the same so long as you maintain tire diameter of 24.8"...
  6. talking to a guy that does motorcycles tins out of his garage, i asked him about dust/bugs and neighbors.... he said he sets up a quicky paint booth using expandable construction poles... you know, the type that hang the orange netting.... each pole is linked at the top by a lateral having clips built into it.... basically, u just extend a series of these poles up until pressed against the ceiling and clip on the plastic... for controlling overspray, he uses a fan and filter (cheap stuff from wal-mart) on both the intake and exhaust. the intake is placed up high and exhaust down low (on opposite sides of the booth of course).... he then sets the exhaust fan at one speed faster than the intake to create negative pressure.... anyway, sounds pretty trick to me. i wonder where one could pick up a set of these pole things? guess i shoulda asked....
  7. thinking about going from my talon seats to 280Z seats... i have the seats and necessary 240Z tracks... just need to change out the seat covers.... so, who has used a kit, which kit and with what success? did it fit correctly, match original appearance, problems with wrinkles or looseness? thanks guys! -bry
  8. they look awesome but do sit waaayyyy tall though.... here's the install "how-to" i did in the late 90's.... http://www.geocities.com/bry593/seat/seat.htm
  9. before you go 8" wide, you should check my post on the 16x8 sportmax with zero offset. it describes interference areas as well as ideal backspacing. 15x7 rb's with -12 offset would fit perfectly on any Z or ZX. 15x8 with -12 would fit great on Z with coilover suspension. 15x8 zero offset will rub on the rear fenders during corners and bumps (if you run the typical 24.8ish dia tire).... my preference is RB's 15X7 with -12 offset.... there are some out there... check ebay $440.... personally, i think drag lites have dated styling.... and the rewinds just don't look right in the 16" size...
  10. 1972 240z, Sportmax 16x8 0 offset wheels, 225/50-16 tires. Car lowered slightly. Rear tire sidewalls rub on uneven terrain and during bumpy corners. Will adjust ride height up and add rear sway bar to stiffen. If that doesn't do it, will move rear springs to front and use stiffer in rear. UPDATE 051107 Ride height adjusted up .6". New trim height is 26.1" measured from ground to fender lip at wheel centerline. Added Suspension Techniques rear sway bar (nicely engineered btw) Rear springs are 170 lb/in Verdict - Still rubs on extreme bumps. Will move rear springs to front and use 200 lb/in in back. Notes: *Taiwan origin, but what isn't these days.... *Finish is not great, but acceptable for the price *Wheel caps don't fit 240Z dust covers (do they make extended caps?) *Lightweight wheel and tire only 44 lbs (wheel is 16 lbs) - my old nissan 14x5.5 with 195/70-14 is 43 lbs *Rear fender interference may not be an issue on stock height Z, but likely on lowered cars *Rolling rear fender lip will not eliminate tire contact, but will minimize tire gouging *Braking pressure increased, although wheel and tire lightweight, mass concentrated farther out on diameter nice aggressive stance, totally changes the look of the car the wheels and tires are nearly flush with outer edge of fenders this is the problem area... clearance on rear coilover is 3/4", +12 offset would be ideal.... no spoiler interference no interference between front tire and fender lip clearance on front coilover is more than 3/4"
  11. w/o driver. originally the 240z weighed about 2350, so i have added around 300 lbs. this is not all engine and tranny. some of the weight is due to 18 gauge floor pan, custom sub frame connectors, second skin on rockers, custom rear valence, dual exhaust, custom seats..... etc..... -bry
  12. yup, that's a ton of work right there! good looking work, nice welds!
  13. trust me, your car is FAR from rusty..... i doubt it has much sag if any. if the doors close easily and the body lines match up with weight on the wheels, there is probably no twist or sag. if no twist is found, all ya gotta do is raise the car by placing ramps or blocks under the TIRES. i don't recommend putting jackstands on the subframe before welding, this will certainly bow the body out of its factory dimensions. If you weld while in this position, it may impart additional stresses into the body when the car is back on its wheels..... might cause problems, might not.... but why take the chance? just my 2% of a buck btw, this is what a typical rusty Z looks like: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117777
  14. how do i get a set? $360-$440 sounds like a pretty good deal. -bry
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