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260pos

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About 260pos

  • Birthday 02/07/1965

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  2. Jon, Thank you for setting me up with your brother-in-law Mat, He shipped off the strut insulators today, and also he gave me a great price on them. You are the man!
  3. Thanks Bobby, Unfortunately I have a late 260, in a normal year, it would be considered a 1975. Most of the parts are the same as a 280z. 240z insulators won’t work. Odd that the older insulators seem to be easier to find. I wonder what would happen if I use the 240z mounts…
  4. Thanks Jon & DC. I shot an email off to both of them. Hopefully I can pick up a set. Rebuilt the oil soaked starter motor today. At least the little Z is finally getting the attention it has been begging for! Thanks again, -Jim
  5. Hey guys, I have both of my strut insulators broken on the rear of my car. MSA has a listing for the parts, but are out of stock for four weeks! Is there another car that uses a similar insulator? MSA wants $380.00 for the insulators, should I go coil-over instead? My welding equipment is out of state, so I would need to farm that aspect out as well. I lost my freaking job with a company car, so I must get my hoopty Z on the road or I’ll be sleeping in it! Time and cost is paramount, with a bias on time…
  6. 40 may be a stretch, but I imagine you could get to the mid-high 30's, look cool and still be all datsun. Smaller engines don't always equal better mileage, as you are likely to be heavier on the throttle!
  7. Why go low compression? If you aren’t running emission controls on your motor, an l-16 with a small chamber head design and flattop pistons would give you greater efficiency. It’s the long duration cam that usually goes with it that kills your mileage. If you are paying $5.00 a gallon for fuel, $0.30 a gallon isn’t anything! Better mileage, more power. More NOx emissions are the only evil.
  8. My 2 cents I have a blank canvas. It’s an almost stock late 74 260. It sits in the garage and mocks me, daring me to build a what? I found Sean’s posting on I believe ecomodder.com. I’m pissed at the fuel prices, makes me want to buy a moped, but I like cars better… My thoughts are a VW tdi swap that I guess would be about 42mpg or 11.9 cents per a mile. A 1.9 liter 4-cyl that should return 35 mpg, or 11.8 cents per a mile. Modify that same motor with high compression and a diet of premium, and an assumed 5% increase in mileage and you get 37 mpg or 11.5 cents per a mile. Kick the compression way up and run e-85 and you will get almost the same mileage as a regular fueled engine, say 34 mpg, but with the subsidized cost it returns 11.4 cents per a mile, but how long is the government is going to pony up with that is anyones guess. Or buy a moped and pay 4.2 cents a mile, no insurance, no registration, but no dates!!! My estimates are conservative on the returns, if you go with high-pressure tires weight reduction, and aero improvements you might me able to hit 40 on premium gas, 50 on diesel. I figure a Maxima head and cam with flat-tops in my l-26 block with the Maxima injection and l-24 reciprocating ought to get about 32-33 mpg and no fabrication nightmares on premium. 13.2 cents a mile. How many miles do you have to drive to recoup 2 cents? Or say f-it and buy an old Geo, 50mpg easy with the right mods… Fuel prices were quoted by TropStop; e-85 $3.899 Reg $4.199 Prem $4.379 Diesel $4.999
  9. Zsane, that is a very sweet article. Thanks, but it got me thinking more along the lines that a truly “fun†engine needs more tweaking in the short block. TonyD, what are the approximate “critical†speeds on a L6? I understand that it would be based on stroke, component weight and probably the individual grain and temper of each component, is there a way of calculating this? Now the wine has been gone for a while, but the curiosity remains on this question. I came up with these numbers: COMPONENTS / ROD RATIO / ROD ANGLE / SIMILAR TO LD28 block L28 crank w/ custom rods / 1.896 /15.289 degrees / 302 Chev L24 L14 rods w/custom pistons / 1.853 / 15.650 degrees / 340 Mopar L24 / 1.805 / 16.085 degrees / 289 Ford LD28 block & crank w/custom rods / 1.776 / 16.353 degrees / 327 Chev L28 / 1.648 / 17.661 degrees / 350 Chev L28 LD28 crank L24 rods / 1.602 / 18.182 degrees / 396 Chev L28 LD28 crank L28 rods / 1.569 / 18.587 degrees / 454 Chev It seems that the motors that are infamous for revving have the better ratios. Build your own Datsun Z/28 (liter)! This Z Sounds SOOO sweet!
  10. Jason. I thought I would rattle Jeg’s A little. If we all rattled them, maybe you could get some action. What a bunch of B.S. to not warrant a product by whining about the application it was installed in when your company is obviously catering to the hot rod nation. I’m sure hey had reservations as they were taking your payment. (Ya right!) Good luck with it, -Jim
  11. I got a reply: Good afternoon, I guess I would like to know engine he bought from us. As I’m sure you are aware GM makes 9 different versions of a small block that we carry. I don’t know what difference the weight would make, plus you don’t know what radiator he is running it might not have enough cooling surface to cool the larger motor. Good luck with your project. Please remember that GM crate motors are exactly that. They are put together on a GM assembly line just like any new motor that you would by from any GM dealer in the United States. Again, good luck on your project; Les Lewis Mail order manager 800-345-4545 ext 534 614-851-9763 fax Les.Lewis@jegs.com
  12. Search, Search… Okay I didn’t follow up on the discussion that got me thinking about this. So the L20a doesn’t have 135mm rods, 133mm just like the L24. So lets rephrase the question again. To keep people off my head choice lets say I have a L28 F54 block with a P90 head, would converting to the L24 133mm rods and custom pistons with a modified compression height help out with harmonics and rev-ability? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117949
  13. Okay. So other than the choice of head (Did I mention the wine last night?), would the long stroke / long rod create a freer reving engine. Or were my thoughts last night just way out in left field? Or am I just wasting bandwidth again?
  14. Okay boyz, how about this; L28 block, bored .040 over Stock Crank LZ22s Pistons L20a Rods E88 Head This should come out at 2818cc’s And 10:1 SCR Has anyone built one yet? Being I keep hearing (reading) about the poor harmonics of the long stroke L's. Wouldn't this fix it? Where do we get the rods? JDM got all the good shi, I mean stuff! -Jim
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