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thnikkamax

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About thnikkamax

  • Birthday 11/02/1982

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  1. I have searched several phrases to find this out and I find situations that are similar to mine, but just not quite the same. What I know: - My car is a 71 (6/71 if that matters) - L28 swapped in, A/C and almost all the smog equipment omitted. Basically just the essentials remain. - Shocks are Tokico Blues, installed the HZ3015 number in the front, the HZ3016 were left for the back - Springs I bought are used from a trusted shop.. they are black, one set of springs is taller than the other. - Shop labeled the tall ones as Fronts and so I installed them as such, leaving the shorter springs for the rear. - These black springs themselves (not the drop) were about 2 to 2.5" shorter than stock but you could feel the stiffer rate. - At stock, the distance from the edge of the fender to the top of the tire is 2.75" - I installed the tall ones on the front, and now that previous measurement is 3 1/6" (taller than before). Onced I noticed this I did not install the rears to make sure the car settled a bit so I can judge whether or not I like the drop. - By eyeballing it, the fronts are linear, all coils compress at about the same rate. Emphasis on the eyeballing of it. - 160 miles later, they've settled at about 3" (still taller than before). I have the time to install the rears and see how that goes, I just want to avoid an interruption in cruising time if I can troubleshoot this before wasting more energy on it. My questions are: 1) What is the likely brand of these springs? 2) Are they installed backwards? 3) If the tall ones definitely do go on the front and the shorter ones definitely do go on the back, can I assume that cutting them will not disrupt much performance? 4) How many coils can I cut off the front and rear for this setup? I know this is odd, but I will seriously snail mail a $25 Macy's gift card to whoever can answer all these questions... even though that only buys you a pair of socks at that place. :-/
  2. yes it's an S30, a 71 with the engine and most of the electrical of a 76. And all three things went out at that same time.. I can care less about the reverse lights.. the speedo/odo worry me more. All I really wanted to know is if there was a connector down there that could be replaced or if it was the whole cable. I have a box with like 3 gauge clusters & harnesses so I'll trial and error the whole thing tomorrow.
  3. The title says it all... a few hours ago I changed my gear oil, and when I was down there I noticed a small leak coming out of what i'm assuming is the sender for the speedometer/odometer.. i tightened it up a bit and shortly thereafter speedometer, odometer, and reverse lights stopped working. It's dark now and I live in a pretty bad hood to be getting under the car at this time of night.. just thought I'd throw up the quick question since "speedometer odometer reverse" yielded no results in search. Any input out there? Gracias!
  4. Mine used to be a 97 Maxima SE 5spd.. black on black, and oh so sexy. Started misfiring like crazy when she hit 255K miles in July. Been driving the ol' L28 powered '71 240Z ever since. When I got it it was fairly complete, just minor things were loose here and there, electrical was everywhere though. Regardless, it is by far the most cost-efficient vehicle I have ever owned. I'm knocking on wood, but I have yet to encounter a problem that I can't fix with the standard issue toolbox I carry around.
  5. Ok let me know how it goes. I only ever use my Zed for cross-county (read county not country.. hehe) driving and never plan to drag or auto-x so I was hoping the Tokico Strut/Spring package would be the way to go. I've read a lot of people sectioning struts with that specific package but I figured it might be because they were optimizing for auto-x/track. I need to read some more, I suppose. Have you gotten the RB-R's on there yet with the new ride height?
  6. Most excellent detail! I'm partial to this setup as I have 16x8 RBR's as well.. but they're +04mm offset, which I guess means I'll clear the strut seat better than the +10's. Do you anticipate any rubbing problems with the lower setup? One more thing, although I did speed read this whole thread, I don't think I caught whether or not you mentioned why you didn't section off the struts. Looks like you only cut the bumpstops and that was it???
  7. This problem started shortly after this idiot I call "myself" let the lights on and the battery died. A few days later, I noticed that the starter would take a few tries to spin completely. At first it would just click, but then it would start cranking but really slow as if the battery was close to dead. Jumping the car did not help at all. Replacing the battery helped just a little but it still took a few tries to get the engine fired up. Feels like everytime I try to crank it I'm abusing the battery. I cleaned the grounds, sanded them a bit and used electrical parts cleaner on anything I thought could be related. No difference. I tried installing a relay mod that I found from a google search, no difference. What I don't get is that I have done zero work to anything electrical in a loooong time, then what could it be that started causing this? A recent dead battery? A few more symptoms, both battery posts get really hot. So does the starter motor and solenoid, and this wire between the solenoid and the starter gets super hot and starts cooking.. lots of smoke. I'm wondering if I should just replace the starter.. but I have one from a 71.. would that fit the 76 L28? Help!!!
  8. UPDATE 2: Yeah...... the custom adjustment bolts I was making, priced out to about $40ea for stainless steel (multiply by 4.. haha) but understandable because they were all aircraft grade aluminum, and pivot ball joints were used... so i'd rather get the cheaper looking turnbuckles for $2ea or less as seen in the pic with the Pontiac.. I'm going with the closed ones though, and then i'll send them out to get powdercoated or anodized a certain color to give them some coolness points.
  9. Thanks to speedgato and 240Z2NV's pics.. Here's the progress on my Adjustable AND Universal Flat spoiler http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=943192&postcount=15
  10. UPDATES: 1) The visors are a no go.. hat a set of extras and it would require you to send me your hardware so that I could re-do them. 2) Center Controls Console - Vacuum forming tooling is still in the works, we're making a mahogany tool instead of aluminum. This means that the finished part MAY have some tool lines in it (from the wood segments), but at least they'll be straight lines so it won't look that bad.. plus I found material with texture that matches the interior!!! A/C will definitely be ommitted. I can only make 1 tool, that is all I'm being allowed to waste time with. 3) SCCA Legit Flat Adjustable Spoiler - YUP, it's adjustable now! I'm making my own adjustment rod assembly with brackets that will also be adjustable (up and down movement) when attaching to the spoiler. This is so you can mount the brackets on your car (almost any car I hope), then adjust the spoiler vertically until it sits where you want on the car. How do I compensate for the curvature of cars??? Simple, a thin rubber lip about 2" bonded (not screwed or riveted) to the bottom of the spoiler so you get a clean mount without gaps on the ends. You'll need to cut out a semi-circle to clear the hatch button. Sketches coming soon! Now, the spoiler is the project I'm most excited about, and I've spent enough time that I know I'm going to AT LEAST make one for myself for sure. If i don't reproduce it, I will release component part numbers, drawings, and dimensions for you guys to make your own. I do want to mass produce if it's a truly universal spoiler application though. Current Spoiler Details: * 0.1875" Thick Kydex Plastic Spoiler. The melting point for the 0.125" material is 160 degrees farenheit. This should stand up better to the heat but I will have it on my car a few weeks in the heat to see how it reacts. * (4) Vertical brackets to support the height of the spoiler to prevent a lot of flex. 4 locations is better than 3 in case you're mounting this over a center brake light strip, * Face of spoiler is currently up in the air... see below... NEED YOUR HELP: I am about ready to order my components for the adjuster rods.. I don't want to buy something that's already out there because I have a huge budget here at work, and a McMaster-Carr account That being said, the SPOILER HEIGHT can be dictated by the min/max lengths of the adjustment rods. I am using right/left threaded connecting rods so the wing can be adjusted without removal.. only monkey wrench needed. I have two options: A) Adjustment rod assembly is 4.8" at shortest, and 5.8" at tallest, Spoiler face is 6.5" Adjustment rod assy is 6.8" at shortest, and 7.8" at tallest. Spoiler face is 8.5" I don't want to overhang the spoiler too much from where the brackets end up the vertical. The adjustment rods look prettier on the taller version lol... but I remember the 7" Spoiler fuss from the wind tunnel tests topic posted to this site. I guess I can make it 7" and leave 1.2" overhang. F-it.. I'll R&D both... Here's my inspiration: http://s302.photobucket.com/albums/nn83/240Z2NV/Other/?action=view&current=SpoilerBrace1.jpg Thanks to speedgato, and 240Z2NV's pics
  11. I wonder if those brackets are custom made, or if they can be purchased somewhere. Those were the brackets I was referring to except the slimmer struts would look nicer. Also, would three of those suffice? I think that would be enough to hold up the wing and support it. I'm also leaning towards the thin strip of rubber to prevent air from escaping at that point.. bonded onto the fiberglass as well. Good thing is it can be easily painted to match body color. If i can't find a hardware solution that works, and can be replicated easily to distribute, then I'm just going to make a fixed version just like speedgato's except fiberglass because that's what I got.
  12. I'm currently making a mockup of this wing and I, too, would like to make it adjustable. What do people think about aircraft grade prepreg fiberglass, thick enough to handle the force? Would make it easy to bond on the brackets that the NASCAR style adjusters can attach to so you'd have a nice clean surface. I like exactly where speedgato's wing sits, I need to fab up some brackets and figure out those adjusters. Might end up just making it to comply with the Auto-X rules similar to the pontiac wing posted in this thread.
  13. also, I am dying to make that wing that I posted.. I'll try to figure out a way to make it removable too.. I just need a template for that shape!!!
  14. I saw from the other thread that you sent it over to the CF guys. I think I'm going to stay away from large items at first. I'll let you know if I ever decide to go with the large 1pc splitter. Our machine shop is getting slow too, but not slow enough yet to sneak in custom projects. The windows seem easy, but the thickest lexan we have a ton of is .125 thk. Doors, hatches and hoods are too big for our vacuum formed machines And the splitter, as I responded to Challenger above, I want to stay away from that huge one for now. I def am aiming for a thick plastic angled at the edges.. 2pcs so they can be small enough to ship easily. These would obviously be more cosmetic than functional (if at all), but that's why I'd go the plastic route because fiberglass or cf down there can make a person queezy. Armrest is done so that can be the first to start producing once I figure out a price. I'll post a pic of it and let you guys decide what it's worth to you. See above for the splitter and large items. I'd love to, but I think those are too ambitious for now. I see the demand so it will stay in consideration. The center console will probably be the first vacuum form item to get produced.. I'll post pics later of my mockup. The hardest part of it is since it's angles inward towards the bottom then it's tough to make a straight face of it. The vacuum draw is no problem, I'm just wondering if it will have to sink in so much that it will be too deep inward. I'll post pics of that prototype towards the end of the day, but as is would leave the stereo opening in tact, and would require ommission of A/C & heat system. I don't have A/C or heat in my Z so this is why I made it this way.
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