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HybridZ

AWDSOME

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About AWDSOME

  • Birthday 03/04/1991

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    Denver, CO

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  1. Thanks for the replies guys. Turns out Conifer has some pretty reputable body shops up here (if there is such a thing.) I also talked to a local guy who has a spray booth and a MIG welder that I'm more than welcome to use, for free. If I'm unable to get it sandblasted up here, I'll definitely check into Blasttech. Proxlamus, your Z is amazing. If I were to go forced induction, I'm convinced we'd have identical cars. What kind of compressor are we talking about for Soda Blasting? A 60 Gallon, 5HP wouldn't cut it would it?
  2. Hey everyone, Bought a '71 a couple of weeks ago and I guess I should probably start working on it. It's going to need some rust repair in the usual areas. ie. Fenders, rocker panels and rear quarter panels. Aside from the aforementioned areas, it's in pretty good shape. Has anyone used the MSA weld in repair kits? Search isn't turning up much regarding those. Does anyone in Colorado know of any good quality, affordable auto-body and paint places, preferably on the Front Range? I would need someone to weld the panels in, media blast the car and lay down a nice® paint job. Any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  3. With the 3.0 Kit, did you need to send in anything? I noticed that the 3.0L asks for an exchange and 3.2 asks that you have a good core. Being in Colorado I know he said he'd wave a lot of the core charges because he didn't see me want to have to pay for shipping. He seems like a very reasonable guy. I'll have to just pick up the phone and give him another call about the 3.0 kit. I don't know of any place you can get forged internals and quality parts for that price. They certainly seem to be the "go-to" place for serious performance. You were happy with the work that Bowers Racing did? Do they do machining there as well? I'm up in FoCo/Loveland almost every weekend and it would be worth the trip if I could get a quality shop. Is there anyone there I should talk to in particular? Thanks for the information 30-Ounce. You've been nothing but helpful, as have everyone on Hybrid that I've encountered so far and I'm certainly looking forward to Sept. 10th.
  4. BluDestiny - I feel like a fool. I've never even heard of those before, I just assumed it a way of getting more air into the engine. Do you enjoy your current L28 build? 30 Ounce - I've actually had my eye on the 3.0 kit for quite some time. Are you happy with it? I'd love to come out and take a ride. I assume everyone will be there just about all day?
  5. AWDSOME

    1971 240Z (HLS30-40041)

  6. AWDSOME

    IMG_1830.JPG

    Right after getting it (8/13/2011)
  7. Leon, Thanks for all the information. Will read your build thread in it's entirety later today. No, I haven't driven a Z with 200Lb-ft. I've ridden/driven in my fair share of stock Zs. The '71 that everything is in now runs alright once it warms up. It's far from underpowered, I guess I'm just looking for a little more from it. I'm glad to know that you're still running the L24 and feel content with what you have. I'm a purist to a certain extent which is why I'm deciding to stick with the L-series, if not the L24. I've driven some hard core stripped-down performance cars as well as reliable daily drivers (like my Outback Wagon, which can still have some fun). I'm just trying to find the healthy middle ground. Sounds like you're well on the path to locating it. Just from skimming your post, it's a very nice Z. Aside from the dynos numbers listed above and on your build page, do you have any other numbers for it? 0-60, 1/4? Thanks again for all your help. I appreciate it and sorry for being a bit of an ass in my last post; it's often hard to break into forums like this and it's easy to become defensive. Thanks for being welcoming and for the priceless information. Cole
  8. I understand. Thanks for your help thus far. I've read just about every post on the 250+ pages in the L6 section over the last couple of months, but it's always a little more reassuring when someone addresses your situation directly as there hundreds of variables in a build like this, although I don't need to tell you that. I'm just a little indecisive and sometimes hearing it from someone else makes a world of difference. I was hoping I could get Tony D, Mortensen or BRAAP to tune in and drop the knowledge bomb! Wishful thinking I suppose. And yes, sorry. I have an N47 with the exhaust liners on the N42. Also have a spare N42 HEAD. Yes, Leon, the head. Sorry, I have a lot going on. Figured everyone would understand. Assumed wrong. Sorry.
  9. Thanks for the replies, yes, electric. The man I bought the N42 from said it was turboed. I assumed it was the F54 block. I show up, after driving an hour and half to take a took at it, to find this little electric snail on it. Why anyone would go with something that probably saps more power from the engine than it could ever possibly produce is beyond me. Duragg, thanks for the information. It's nice to know someone is building something similar and has confidence in their setup. Displacement at altitude isn't always the best; it takes even more air. My 2.5L NA Subaru routinely kicks higher displacement cars up some of Colorado's 10k+ ft passes. If you can't make enough power to balance out the extra air you need, you're not gaining anything, but it seems like the general consensus is that the L28 is the way to go because you can make a lot more power. Is their anyone on the forum with a built L24, or someone that's using Rebello's 2.7L? So Rossman, if this were your build, given what I have, you'd go with the N42/N42? The head does NOT have the injector cutouts, which I'm still happy about. The two things that are throwing me off about the N42 block are the dished pistons and the exhaust liners. I've heard conflicting answers. Yes, the dished pistons can still have higher CRs and no they can't. I've also heard the exhaust liners can OUTFLOW stock heads without them, but I've also been told they reduce airflow. Have any insight on this? Would flattops for the N42 be a worthwhile investment? I know I said I wanted it streetable so I don't want to even be close to 11:1. You build is great. I know I said that I'd rather not go the forced induction route, but are you on the stock FI or are you running an aftermarket standalone for fuel management? Anyone else like to throw a combo in the mix?
  10. Hi, I've been creeping the forums here for a couple of months, but this is my first post. Was wondering if I could get a little help deciding on the best build. I'm sure there are hundreds of these posts, however, I'm having a little trouble finding what I need and I know you are all a helpful bunch so here it goes. I'd like to keep this build N/A and carbed. Overall cost is important, but can be stretched if you feel it's essential. The car everything is going into will be a '71 Z. The numbers match, so I'd rather not completely scavenge parts from the original motor, but I will if I need to because I feel that as beautiful these cars are, they won't ever be high dollar collector cars. I'd rather enjoy it than have to worry about that sort of thing. Here is what I have to work with, yes, I know some of the things don't add up, two of the three engines I have were modified/rebuilt. In my car now -4 speed -E88 heads -'71 block (I assume P30?) -Round SU's I also have (as of tomorrow, not too late to back out if it's not worth it, although I need other parts from this car): -E31 head (99.9% sure; I know they're pretty rare) -P30 Block (2.6L) -Round SU's This one is a bit of a mystery: -N42 heads (early years) -L28 N42 block (early years, higher nickel content?) This block saw boost from previous owner from an electric turbo) -5 Speed (wide ratio I believe) Also have a couple diffs, believe one is a 3.9 and the other two are standard '71's. Any of those combos sound promising? I'd be more than happy to go a 3.0 or 3.1 if I have an applicable combo, I know the early N42 wasn't a bad block for an overbore. The car will be a street car only and needs to run on pump gas. I'd like as much reliability and longevity as possible, but I understand that's just as much in the build itself than the parts used. I like to drive spiritedly, so the car will be ran somewhat hard. What block/head combo sounds like the best, if any? Camshaft that would make it streetable without losing that racecar feel? Torque is more important than HP to me. I can deal with most everything else later, but I need to have a tentative plan so I can start making headway. I spoke to Dave at Rebello Racing and after much deliberation, I've decided to build my own for the experience, but he offered some insight into the 2.7 buildup and the 3.0. Is 200 ft-lbs at the wheels doable from a L28 with headers, triples, exhaust, cam, etc or would it needed to be bored/stroked to get those sort of numbers? Are the stock SUs up to the task or would I need to move to triples or have then bored? As I said, no EFI. I have one modern nightmare and I don't need another. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated! Thanks in advance. Cole
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