Jump to content
HybridZ

nat0_240_chevZ

Members
  • Posts

    44
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About nat0_240_chevZ

  • Birthday 01/01/1984

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Australia

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

nat0_240_chevZ's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

10

Reputation

  1. hi bud, From my measurements from making some similar to these previously. There are 2 versions of the stock rails, and some real early s30's and I dare say the early USA LHD HLS30's had a double thread tow hook on the LH (US Drivers) Side rail end/front only, where most of the later ie 71> had the single symmetrical tow-hook mounting holes with threaded or Weld-nuts in the reo plate at the front. Yes it appears, (from the pics you have posted) that the rails you have, have omitted the slight taper on the in-board face and the top face of the rail so they dont have that "Stock-Look" to them. for most people, this wouldnt matter, only the purist or those really trying to keep the original look to the engine bays of their cars. I can understand why too, as it makes or cast doubt over the car sometimes when you look at it and it looks like its been tampered with, albeit even if done correctly with good workmanship and sound practices etc. there are some rail replacements around which do have the taper you speak of. As for your above mention of a butt-welded rail, yea, no stay away from this unless you are looking at adding a joggled/stepped lap join, to maintain integrity, I never recommend doing this, but like you I had 1 car which needed a front section only (not the rear/main structural section where X-member and TC rod support is), so a carefully manufactured and grafted section with the correct amount of 'taper' (for a later 260z rail, which this particular 240z hs30 had a 260 front clip completely grafted on previously in its life) so the taper is twice the amount of the 240z/hs30, but with a joggled/stepped flange on all 3 sides of the rail section, with 2 plug welds each face, as-well as the 'bevel-butt-weld' naturally left by this joint configuration, is preferred for the structural integ.Required of the rail itself. As the forward section is still responsible for opposing the load of the sway/anti-roll bar and the other forces transferred from the strut towers to the front rad support/tie bars, so it needs to be done quite well. I do have pics of such a joint and fitment of the complete front section only, but in your case this would not be recommended. I hope this doesn't scare you off, but I think the Zedd findings rails are suitable replacements none the less of your ok with the different look. Otherwise you can look for the other styles around and im sure you will have no trouble off-loading your current items. hope this helps Nat0
  2. Any updates? Will they ship to Australia? Horse power is not how drive line items are rated. I'll need torque and duty ratings to decide. Power ratings are derived from speed and torque, and on that note what are the speeds they are tested at and also what bias ratio is offered? Cheers nat0
  3. Hi all, as some of you may have seen of late several posts/topics of everything to do with restoring/replacing or retrofitting. here is another one of them. Aimed at ones whom want a fresh start, with the usual 'looser of any front end battles'. here is the start, the very start, of all the hours I put in to a relatively complex development, hours upon hours of measuring, drawing/drafting, checking, cussing & re-drawing and re-drawing again anad again until they are perfect (or nearly there). This Development is not neccessarilly one I need myself but I do already have the need for the below pictured lower box section, Pics---> see below link The 3rd pic, is also a layout of the front panel from top to bottom, which I am currently working on, again I didnt NEED it but it would be nice to put a new one in and also to help out others. now the only thing left up front it the top cross piece which houses the bonnet latch & corner gussets amongst others. Ill try to keep this thread pretty clear, there will be a few extra bank posts below, for future updates. Cheers Nat0 So I dont have to write up twice, see attached link for updated pics etc. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,12469.0/topicseen.html
  4. yes thats me!!! from a gtr 32 centre i got a used one and machined up some small bushes to bushe the 10mm bolts, works great!!!! nat0
  5. Very nice snarled. You may even need that much extra been depending on engine / suspension load or output. Prolly a bit heavy under the seat, but at least you could even jack your car up from them if you wanted to.
  6. No you'll be fine, But if you did want to replace with 1.6mm thick / 16Ga or 0.063" complete units then let me know, I have got Pics Here!!.......along with everything else available, or to be available soon... I do like What Boy-fromOz has done too, I aggree with John, Re: a comp plate on the firewall to dissipate load around the relatively small back end of the rail-firewall junction. I'll be addressing this issue with an easy to install kit which will mount on the inside of the F/wall under the carpet.......more later Nat0
  7. Happy to send int'l. Bugger the Aus dollar is too high....... Good for us to buy from you guys but not the other way.... Also got floor/tc rod sections complete repairs too. Scrap the car? Only if you want another "-1" for 240z on the roads, props for trying to bring one back from the brink. Need to have or know someone willing to help with the skils req'd to resurect such damage. nat0
  8. yes, The VQ 4wd is a far better option in regards to the front diff/drive in relation to the motor and its mounts etc. Another candidate is the VQ25det from the nm35 Stagea or infinity you guys also have??? Try giggle for some pics...my mate has the NM35 Stag, it looks like an awesome swap (in lieu of the rb), Maybe with a 30 or 35 motor in exchange but.
  9. My thoughts...... It would be easier to drop the GTR sump and diff all together, and build a modified front crossmember to house a small housing diff from say GKN drivelines/dana, or maybe something along the lines of an r160 or r180 (Fuji), much like in the 720 ute, sierra, offroad racing diffs etc. This way you can retain the 'rearmost' engine mount position (nice and close to the firewall, where it belongs) along with a decent sized sump (also a GR flaw), with a provision for the Transfer shaft & diff snout to run right next to it. Serious engine rail mods will be needed to accomodate, much like the GTR 'Humps' for the front half shafts. You will end up with an asymetric front drive which may envoke torque steer somewhat. This can be partially designed out of the system by using different half shaft dia's with differing elastic modulus' I would also go as far to say to utilise a 26 crossmember as a working platform. (skyline front x-members do mount up. check the hole centres) -revert stering to behind the front axel (existing skyline or similar) -swap your castor rod pickups to the front via (ensure these are heavilly braced as these will be what transfers front drive to the chassis) or look at an 'A'-arm pickup near the old TC mount. -add diff mounting to either a semi-sub-frame on this front cradle or fabricate it in situ. (could even solid mount the rb and build around a 'bolt up' kit to the side of the motor) There is a significant amount of room up front with and 'L6' platform, especially if you do not use the stock rb26 sump/diff assy. I myself am not interested in putting this into action, however I do have a 26 bottom and rb25 mounted in what I feel is the perfect spot. I would happilly sketch out the sub-frame req'd to house such monster to the right person(s) Diff ratio's will need to be matched perfectly of course, along with rolling dia's of your tyres/rims etc. here is some inspiration pics, althought weight may be a problem, but im sure that can be overcome. nat0
  10. Hi Bud, looks like you need some of these...... LINK here floor rails also coming. This kink is an S30 problem, just hitting gutters or kerbs will do this. This is why Nissan wen to a trailing link in almost all of their cars to follow, Hit a gutter and up over she goes, all-be-it cracked rimms and bent control arms. But this is better than what your looking at now i suppose. Nat0
  11. To the above whom have queried for pics, check your PM's Weblink supplied. To the OP, also sent a PM. Cheers John.
  12. take a look at this one.... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360534303217 it is used, but the carrier will bolt in and the shafts will be 29 spliners..... I do recommend getting all this checked, as its no use throwing money away. I had all my dims checked before committing to a 2 way over ebay, but in my case it all worked out well. Nat0
  13. How about...If you would like to maybe save some coin, buy a used Nismo 1.5 way LSD from any or either of the online or other communities? these can be had for under $600 Australian. Heaps of nissans use the R200, you just need to check a few things first. -Spline count on output shafts -Bolt diametre used on Crownwheels -inside Dia. of the crownwheel, (just incase its a weird one, ie not 200mm) try to stay away from the viscous units, yes they do have 1 longer side shaft, but sometime also have funny spline counts, or shaft dia's. nat0
  14. Hi Guys, Need To Use Caps Where Req'd, Got A Warning For Not Doin So, Sorry Guys I Apologise. Only thing is I didnt get a warning for cussing, spelling mistakes or drilling others???? Weird. Anywho, I would have to link you to another site, as it Wont let me post pics either???? (Probably something to do with my slap on the wrist). Please PM me for details and maybe one of you guys can post them up in this post for me. These mounts are only one of many things I have previously manufactured for the S30's, (for my own requirements). I also do Engine bay Chassis rails, Floor rails (STD or Full length including rear frame links). From rear hump RB sumps (although still not quite finished, but no cutting or shutting on these ones.), to pickups and A/C, P/S and alternator mounting brackts for my own custom requirements. nat0
×
×
  • Create New...