averynisbet

I would get the M30 ECU it has built in consult and should not need much moding to plug in to your harness. They are kinda easy to find right now lots of infinity M30 got cash for clunkered. But the 88-89 ECU's would have better knock sensing stuff. -Avery

I can't see your pics right now because of the forum software upgrade. if you look at the boards both main and knock there should be some sort of version number on each. I bet your NA ecu is just missing the hardware to do knock sensing. If you go on hybridka.com and ask deviouska he will know. list your ecu model numbers please. -Avery

Hey Stan. what are the model numbers of the ECU's? You can check them with the JWT pdf here-->http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/ECU-ID.PDF Also check that both ECU's look the same inside. I know there is not many differences between the Z32 ECU's but I'm not to familiar with the Z31's. You could also get both bins and do a hex diff on them. This would show you the parts of the files that are different. If they are compatable the only differences would be the maps and stuff. I don't think it could hurt much if you just tried moving the chip. Do you think the tune could be doing this? Maybe the tunner gave up a little drivablity down low for the added control up high. -Avery

The connector should be similar. I don't know the O-ring size. Ask them about injectors on an 89' Nissan 240sx with sohc 2.4L. Its engine code is KA24E. Try to match the opening and closing times and impedance. They most likely will not have data on the PWM vs. flow rate. I would wait and not waste money on these injectors, if you are planing on getting a stand alone ECU. New/refurb injectors are expensive. Junk yards charge around $10 and up for each one. Save your money get some big 440cc or 500cc injectors that have a good spray pattern. -Avery

You will be better off waiting on your ECU. It can be really hard to find injectors that flow nearly the same fuel but in diffrent packages. This is also not taking into account that once you have something that has a similar flow rate it will most likely have a different opening and closing time. The curve of how much fuel flows vs the Duty cycle will also vary with different injectors. Consider the injectors and ECU as a package. Like carbs and jets. The SOHC KA24's are really close. claimed 260cc. Please double check. The DOHC's flowed 280 but were side feed. These can be found in lots of cars. U12 Stanza, 89-90 240sx, and trucks. Should be all over the yards. Some sentras may have the KA also. I don't know if the altima ever got the SOHC. -Avery

If your going to be running a z31 ECU for nistune way not just use the z31 harness from the car you pulled the ECU from? -Avery

Kash, Do you know if the JWT chip is coded or scrambled? If its not then you could probably do it yourself. All you would need to do is read the JWT chip load it into the nistune software and cut in paste the maps. Or even just hit the upload button. The Nistune software is really nice. The only problem I can see is if JWT edited some value that nistune would have locked so that you can not edit it. These are usually stupid things like the AC fan temp trigger and stuff most people would never mess with. If you want those things editable the guys at nistune can just enable them before they ship you the daughter card. I think nistune is pretty awesome for the new 32bit ecus like those found in the 240sx and z32. The 8bit(one prom chip) ECUs I think its over kill. You can get a emulator and a prom burner for about the same price. And there are other cheaper alternatives. Have you looked into the opensource M30/U12 daughter board that has been devloped at hybridka.com? http://eccs.hybridka.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1568&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&hilit=open+nvsram http://eccs.hybridka.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=1834&p=9860&hilit=open+nvsram#p9817 It can do more or less the same stuff as nistune and I think its a little cheaper. The M30 ECU also has the consult cable. Im unsure as to which Z31 ecu's have the diag port. -Avery

Bump. I need these parts to fuel inject my 510 and a friends 73 Z. -Avery

Pretty much you give the nistune guy your ecu model number. He flashes the nistune with factory firmware modded to be "nistuneable". Then he ships it to you. I think you can also ship them your ECU so they can solder it in. But I soldered my friend's in and it was easy. I have also removed some proms from nissan ECU's and its pretty simple. Just clean the coating off 1st with non-cloronated bake cleaner. Just clean around what you have to solder and make sure the chip is not glued down by the coating. Solder a new socket in and put the nistune in the socket. Easy as pie. I think I was done in 30min. The software works well with the LC-1 innovate wideband controller. Jon is already making 30hp more with a few bolt ons and a bigger MAF. Great stuff. The forum is also very helpfull. We were using a board for the S13 DOHC it uses the consult cable. I don't think he has any droped consult sessions. -Avery

Im looking for the 83 280zxt distributor/oil pump drive shaft. I need 2 of them. I also need a distributor from a 1986.5 to 1990 Nissan pickup with the Z24i engine. This distributor should have a chopper wheel like the one in the 83 280zxt. I would like the one with only 4 plug wires but if all I can get is the 8 plug one I will give it a try. -Avery

It depends. If you are going for good reliable tuning no. If you don't care that one cylinder could rich or lean by a bit its ok. For low impedance you probably would like them to be closer. If you want reliable tunning you should have your whole set of 6 flow matched and impedance matched. Witchhunter and motorman can do that. Remember you must have your ECU remapped(tuned) to acturlly use the bigger injectors. If you want to tune the nissan ECU's a good site about that is hybridka.com. The best/easiest ECU to run the L series on is the one from the infinity M30. -Avery

The very best thing to do is pull the radiator and take it to a radiator shop and have it dipped. Other than that you can run the flush stuff a few more times. You can also replace it. If this was in your car hooked up to your engine while it was half full with water for years, you may also have problems inside the engine block and head. Besides water color are you having overheating problems? -Avery

Use at least 8 gauge wire. A fuse would be nice but you should run a 100amper if its for the GM one wire type stuff. Two wires in parallel is great too. The fatter and shorter the wire the less voltage drop you have. You can measure your voltage drop by putting the voltage meter across the wire. Red test lead at the alternator + black at fusebox/battery positive while running. Running the alternator straight to the battery is not the best but will work. It should be run to the fuse box or to where most of your loads are connected. This will give the one wire alternator a better view of the load and it will regulate better. If you run three wire you should put the sense at the point where most of the loads are. The positive can then goto the battery and you will be fine. Check out this page for more info. http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire3.shtml -Avery

Plugs are very specific to the engine I would run whatever the DSM guys were running it that. But for the L series the NGK copper plugs seem to be best. Some people only goto a colder number plug when turboed. -Avery

My buddy Joe just threw an $80 autozone clutch kit in and its working great. We may need to bleed the the slave again soon because occasionally will not disengage but only when really warm. Looks like its fixed. -Avery