robertsonsgarage

thanks guys, I'll buy a camaro driveshaft for my tranny and buy the JTR end to have attached. Tom

I'm only building a street machine. I'll get on it once in awhile, but no road or drag racing. I have the back half of a z drive shaft and the universal joint looks awful small compared to a GM. I just looked at the JTR website and they have an adapter that works for my 76 260z. Does this adapter fit right into a camaro drive shaft? I'm just trying to get all my stuff in one sock for a driveshaft rebuild. I really don't want a high dollar racing driveshaft for a street runner. What have you guys done is what I'm interested in hearing. thanks again, Tom

A question for all you sbc 700r4 z guys. What driveshaft do you start with? I have a shortened z shaft that someone said was for a sb ford and tranny, but I don't know for sure. The rear universal on that shaft looks very small. Should I buy a used gm shaft and buy a rear adapter from JTR? What have you guys done? What should I expect to pay for the driveshaft work? thanks, Tom (I did a driveshaft search and read much info, but nothing exactly for my question)

Using a 1/8" drill bit and 1/8" steel rivets should give you a tight fit. Make sure that you have your patch as tight against the repair area as possible so there is no gap to make it loose. The other common size is 3/16". As far as noise goes, either turn that stereo up or for 50 cents buy some foamy ear plugs. Noisy cars are great for women. Just keep nodding your head while driving, they won't know the difference and will just keep on talking. ha,ha

I missed the "bolted in" part. If you do not own a welder or can't get access to one, use pop rivets. It's not the best, but it works. They also make a very good epoxy that bonds metal just as strong as welding but you have to be able to clamp it for several hours. Either way, remember to undercoat the area. Water, condensation, and dirt can get into the smallest of areas and cause big trouble later on.

I am in Toledo, Ohio. Any of you with glass closeby or will all them require shipping?

for bodywork seams use seam sealer. You should be able to find it at a local bodyshop supply store. It comes in tubes like caulking and also in squeeze tubes. Thats what auto makers use to seal up car and truck bodies. Good Luck, Tom

Wow, thanks. I'll check the build date and post it here. thanks again, Tom

The easiest way for a beginner is to cut small circles/squares out of bodywork sheet metal. You can make them about an inch or so big. No, you do not have to cut out circles the same size as the trim holes. Next, assuming you have access to the back of the panel, place the patches over the hole and hold them in place with the head of a hammer or screwdriver(it helps to have a helper). This person can also watch for fires. Now, from the outside, just "tack" them with your mig welder. Hopefully your welder has a trigger so you can start and stop. Even with the lowest setting a mig welder could give you fits by burning through the metal. Practice on a few pieces of scrap. What you want to do is build up your weld bead to cover or fill in the hole. Do every other or every third one, then go back and do the ones in between. This gives the panel some time to cool off and minimize warping. Once all done, take a small grinder and just hit the spots to knock down the high spots and work to make them smooth. Do not spend too much time in one spot or you will warp the panel. If you have a really big goober of weld, do a little of a time. Once all that is done, a good polyester finishing putty will fill in the imperfections good and it's easy to sand. One last tip: on the inside of the panel, spray some undercoat or rustproofing. This will keep any moisture from collecting around your "patches" and rusting through. This is especially important if you only use bondo to fill in the holes because bondo will suck up moisture like a cactus in a rainstorm. Then it swells and you'll just be sick. Hope this helps and if you have any other questions, ask me here or email me. good luck and let us know how it goes. Tom

hey VinhZXT, I emailed you but haven't heard back. I don't know if it went through. I am interested. Let me know please. Thanks for posting that you have one. Tom

Wait a minute. Are you saying that if I switch the hardware from my glass that the 280zx glass, the 280 glass can be used?

thanks guys for the info. I'm waiting for my 14 days to end so I can post a "want to buy" drivers side door glass. As soon as I decide which way to go on my z, I'll be selling the rear end out of it. Thanks again! Tom

I'm a new "Z" owner and I need a driver's door glass. I did some searching on classified and in several sections but did not see an exchange post or thread about it. I found a 1980 280zx glass on ebay. Will it fit into my 74 260z? I love the site and can't wait to post on classified. I am the proud owner of a 74 260z. No engine or trans. My plans are based on $$. First plan is sbc, 700r4, Z rear end(already has 373 gears), paint job, roll bar, rewire. If $$ comes through, I'll sbc, 3 or 4 speed manual trans, narrowed 9" ford rear end on 4 link with tubbed rear body, paint, roll cage, rewire. Thanks for any help in advance, Tom