franky240z

Yep, that'll be about $60.

I think its cheaper to go straight to Kameari, they're about $1000 direct.

Hi All Looking to make a half decent 'cooking' engine using my original block(240). Option 1) 84mm bore, forged pistons, 260 crank, 133mm rods(2626cc ish) option 2)140mm rods and 86mm pistons, 260 crank(2735ish) I've a romantic notion over option 2, although it'd be great to have a bit of the original block left incase things went wrong. How far have people gone? I'll sonic test the blocks with one of the hand held testers so i'll have a good overview of what 'meat' is there.

If you've got an actual race car surely you should be looking at something a little better than a TT or BC option?

What I don't get about all these arms, is the actual point/need. Look at what Caterhams/Lotus, any fine handling, car uses, none of them have this setup. Its just adding multiple failure points.

For all out handling you'll be wanting a reduction in unsprung weight. However it all depends on your suspension also. It should be possible to stone people who fit 17" wheels to the early s30 range.

If you want a modern setup that works, you need to speak to AD at VA motorsport. He did have a used set for sale a while ago. Possibly used/period(ish) stuff also. As Alan pointed out above, i'd go for a nice period setup. There's a lot BC/TTT type fans on here, however I'd really question what development their stuff has done on a rally spec(or any race spec) car, along with their actual knowledge of that type setup. Rally setups are generally the most complex and expensive suspension setups going. Not an off the shelf Far East, Chinese type setup that people put their own stickers on, claiming that they work with every spring rate going due to having 40000000 clicks on the damper.

to add, give AD a call at VA-motorsport https://www.va-motorsport.com/ He's a specialist with them and the s30. The others mentioned above just aren't in the same league.

intrax is your best bet, a proven race setup.

Works about about 10.5:1, I won't believe everything till the bottom end is built and measured as it could possibly be nearer 11:1.

HI They're a custom made JE forged piston. Deck height over standard 0.035" but with valve pockets. with the other parts it should help make an interesting engine away from the norm. I'm trying to put together something revvy and fun feeling. Not and out and out HP build.

Hi all. I've some pistons with the following specs 84mm bore Compression distance 1.379” Dome height 0.035” 0.6cc positive dome Intake valve pocket 0.120” deep x 12 degrees Exhaust pocket 0.110” deep x 12 degrees. I'm using an l24 block, l28 crank, l24 length rods. The pistons were designed as a 'cheat' gives me 2627cc. Big valve e31 head. This gives me a rod/stroke ratio of about 1.68 against a 1.8ish as standard. The way I understand it this is slightly 'better'? Or have I understood wrong? The other engines that ran these pistons were in a rally spec cars with no engine failures.

I'm looking at getting a kit made up. AP Cp5040 calipers 290mm AP discs alloy bells brackets ds2500 spec pads I think it'll be the best brake kit option going. A much much better option than anything wilwood etc. It wouldn't be cheap $2200ish....

Everything you say covers the intrax setup and support from VA-motorsport.

I don't think we do, the support for these cars seems to be just growing now, VA-motorsport have been plugging away for a good few years with these cars. Saying that, I did look to the USA for suspension, it just didn't seem to exist as a developed setup. I'm hoping good suspension and brake will be worth a good number of bhp on our UK bumpy roads