kaito

Thanks for the help everyone. I checked the hei module by giving the G spade 12v as Metro suggested and got a nice fat spark so I did as NewZed suggested and checked the pick up coil. It was dead. Got a new one installed and everything works great. Thanks again Hybrid Z for being the reliable valuable wealth of information that you always are!!!

I just wired up my vr distributor via this diagram http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/gmhei.html but for some reason it's not working. I used the paste and have it mounted in the fender against bare clean metal. I got the hei chip from autozone. Is there a way to test this? I don't want to remove the dizzy for fear of messing up timing. Any feedback would be appreciated.

Oh and btw LC-1 sucks. Try zietronix, I have the zt3 and love it.

Thats how you do it. Like the other guy said though, make sure you check it agin for accurate timing and make sure when you are running it with an actual ignition table that it reads what it says its supposed to be.

I just used the stock turbine housing to make my t3/t4 hybrid. I just used radius gauges and a lathe to port it out to hold a t4 p-trim wheel. Works great.

I didn't need a spacer for my t04e 50 trim compressor housing on the stock turbine housing.

I would just shim it to what is the "best" recommended stack for your powerlevel and then install it and drive it around a bit. I had the same problem assembling my obx and I just said eff it and installed it. A drive later and I could move the tires with my hand. Weird but true.

You can wire the third brake light wire to the brake light bulbs in the taillight assy and connect the other end to the brake light switch on the brake pedal. You might need to play with a test light to find the hot wires but its not too much of a pain.

I dont know what you are talking about with using longer valves but I just put an n42 head on a l24 that was bored out 1 mm and the valves didnt hit the walls. The best way to check is to put the head on, torque down the head bolts and turn the motor over SLOWLY by hand. It will bind if there is not enough clearance. have fun!

Its pretty much stopped. Im prepping the car to sell it and I may or may not do the swap before I sell it. I havent decided yet.

Mine is glitching out too. I thought I did/said something wrong. lol

Ive got a set of early 260z bumpers and a 280z style stock airdam if you are interested. Just pm me with the price you are willing to pay and we can go from there. I also have an msa 6-2-1 squareport headers.

I've got a 260 with coilovers and a modified l28et with megasquirt if you are interested. Pm me if interested.

Waking up an old thread. Touching base with what pallnet said, I just purchased an sr20 koyorad for my s30 and its not going to fit without modification. Its about 1/2 inch too wide so I plan on notching the frame rails a bit to make it fit. I plan to notch the rails and cap them with 18 gauge. We shall see......

you must not have seen the big phil video. Long video short, You will need to weld it to the turbo manifold and port the sheeooot out of the wastegate hole to keep off the boost creep. Its better to weld some schedule 40 piping to the bottom of the manifold and weld the flange to that.