8DC

Thanks for the replies... Ah well, it looks like it needed to be cleaned under there anyway... :/

"I think the driver's door on the Z needs to be adjusted... that should be easy enough..."

Tore the driver's door off intending to fix/adjust my hinges (the door was too low and dragging in the front corner) and now can't figure out how to get it back on and adjusted straight. Thread here if you can help: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123658-door-hinge-installationadjustment/

For clarification, here is the threaded plate on the car side: Left is the hinge that came off the car (unthreaded holes) and the right is the replacement hinge (threaded). Evidently 2 different designs (aside from the threading, the holes measure out to the same location in relation to the pin though), so my original ones are going back on for now but I need to know how to adjust them as the bolts seem to be unreachable with the door and fender in place.

How do you adjust the driver's door hinges if the bolts attached to the car run into a threaded plate? The only way I can figure out to get a wrench or socket in there would be to remove the fender (which means the headlamp bucket, vent panel under the wipers, etc. would need to come out as well) and that seems ridiculous just to adjust the door hinges. I see other door hinge topics mention removing the kick panel and going at them from the back side, which isn't going to work in my case because the threads go into the car, not into the hinge (like the replacement set I have and won't be using now that I see mine are reversed).

Thanks guys! Looks like my guess at them being some sort of interior fastener was wrong (hence why I put the thread here). ...and I suppose that would make sense as I also have fiberglass covers for the headlamp scoops in the box of parts that came with the car (a large box with all kinds of random bits and pieces)... not sure if I'm going to use them though. What do unpainted fiberglass covers typically sell for?

Have a small bag of 6 clips and matching hardware in a bag labeled "Datsun Z". They came with my '76 280... Does anyone know what they are for?

...so this happened today:

I would appreciate it, thanks!

Ok, then how do I find out which ICM I have? ...and while we are on the subject, where do I find it? I thought they were supposed to be located on the side of the distributor in these cars, but mine isn't? Managed to get a shot of the stamping while I was out there too: I just want to know which distributor belongs on the car and where I can order it from.

How do I check if my car (76 280z, manual) came with California emissions? I always assumed that it was Federal emissions (no cats; spent it's whole life in the northeast and michigan), but today I went to replace the distributor and the one on it is stamped D6F4-03. Can a California dist. be run on a Federal car? ...and just to double-check: D6F4-01 = Federal Emissions, Manual Transmission, dual pick-ups D6F4-02 = Federal Emissions, Automatic Transmission, dual pick-ups D6F4-03 = California Emissions, Auto and Manual, single pick-up The shaft in mine is wobbly and needs to be replaced, the car also doesn't like to rev past 3500-4000 RPMs without getting really rough. I realize that is probably from the shaft, but could the wrong distributor also be a culprit?

Updated the front brakes. Replaced the stock Sumitomo 2 piston calipers... ...with a Toyota 4 piston S12 8 set. Brushed them red with the Duplicolor caliper paint kit (more for rust prevention than any kind of style as they are nearly completely hidden behind my Shelby basketweaves. The Toyota brakes are a direct bolt on and I just replaced the old discs with what I was running stock. I think I may add some braided lines soon and while the pedal feel isn't terrible it does engage slightly lower than before, a master cylinder upgrade may be in order.

Had an exhaust custom made from the manifold back. 2.250" tube with a glasspack in the center tunnel and a small 1in 2out Magnaflow out back with packed vertical slash tips by Hedman's Hedders.

The pipes are 1.75", need to be modified to fit correctly, are made from common steel, exit the car horizontally so they don't match the stock cut out, drone at 2.5k rpm, and are loud enough to earn you an easy ticket in most states. ...but if you can deal with all of that, they sound pretty good and seem to be fairly popular around here...