Read some other post and the yeah or nay thing, but didn't see with valve(s) needed clearance.
I have wooden peg in timing chain would be hard to turn over.
Thought I would just do a little grinding while it is off to make sure.
Guess I will grind for both that way I will be sure.
Julius
Do I need to eyebrow the cylinders on a L24 to run a N42 head?
I will be running a felpro head gasket.
Thanks,
Julius
Never mind found this:
http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/85800-n-42-head-to-l-24-block/page__p__814236__hl__%2Beyebrow+%2Bcylinders__fromsearch__1#entry814236
OK I have read/reread all the Bilstien posts and I'm still not sure which part # for the gland nut for the P30-0032 insert for the 240Z strut???? There seems to be many part #'s and they keep changing????
Does anyone have the correct up to date number for the gland nut??
I machined the nuts on the car a little oversize for the Bilstien shaft and was going to use them but read that the gland nut for the Bilstien insert should have an o-ring in it? Will I mess the shaft or body of the insert if I use this?
Thanks guys,
Julius
I picked up an 83 280ZX NA at a car shop, the PO charged backwards. They have lots of things pulled out and laying around. Shop put in a new ECU, I think they zapped it.
I got it home no fuel pump or start, swapped ECU and pump is running with about 40 psi of fuel. Injectors not working will start and run on starting fluid. I have run test in manual.
Everything seems to be OK but injectors still won’t work.
The question I have is the negative side of the coil seems to send signal to ECU to ground and fire.
Where does the ECU ground to? Which ground?
Any info on this would be helpful.
Thanks,
Julius
I pulled the case from my 4 speed and double pin the forks. I put it together and forth doesn't seem to fully go into gear, third seems fine. I have researched and read about not having the selector rod installed properly will cause problems. If it shifts into 3 with a click shouldn't it be OK? It doesn't click into forth and seems not to lock. Have I screwed something up?
Thanks for any insight.
John, thanks for the info.
What I would like to know is,,,,,since I know nothing about benders yet, is the 180 degree die any harder to work with than the 90?
Thanks,
Julius
I found this one time but can't find it now.
I bought a tubing bender couple of weeks ago and now it is time to get die for cage.
I am using DOM 1.5 .120 tubing, going with the 5.5 die.
The question I have is; should I go with the 90 or 180 degree die?????
The 180 is about $30 more.
Is the 90 easier to work with?
I was thinking if I built bumpers or maybe a tube frame later the 180 would be the one to go with but we are noobies with bending so if the 90 is easier to use maybe we should go this route??
We are building a 240Z cage.
It is a SD2 model 3 bender.
Any feed back would be appreciated.
Thanks,