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theramz

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About theramz

  • Birthday 09/01/1946

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    thomasramsey@msn.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Dayton, Nevada. USA
  • Interests
    Fast cars, younger women.

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  1. Anyone have experience installing 280 valve and seats in these heads? Specifically the seats, is there any worries about machining into the water passages?
  2. Dropping the Q45 out this weekend. I thought i would cut the front support but after getting everything loose I think I will roll it out in the driveway and lift the front end up and pull it out the bottom. Interestingly the rear suspension drops out as an assembly too. I do that after the E/T. I guess I'll start my own build thread lol. How you doin?
  3. That part I got wrong. (OFS) You can't remove that much off a bearing od. The only way to fit that bearing in an S30 hub is to have the housings bored out. You would be taking out .084"
  4. Let me clear some things up here. The 240z stub axle bearings both measure 2.750 (2 3/4") o.d and 1.250 (1 1/4") i.d. The '79 thru '83 280zx bearings measure 72mm o.d. and 30mm i.d. The '84-'89 5 lug axles are also use 72mm x 30mm. The 240z housings can be bored out to 72 mm and fitted with the 4 or 5 lug hubs. This leaves a thinner wall around the bearing but the outside of the housing ends could be sleeved for more strength if thought to be necessary. There aren't any metric bearings that fit the S30 axles/housings. The cv flanges need to be shortened and machined/welded on the same hub or whatever hub/spline combo you have available. This requires a skilled machinist with a good lathe and a tig welder. The shortening is necessary on lowered cars because the cv axles are longer. You also need the R200 diff and cv output shafts.
  5. The S30 bearings are "inch" dimensions and the S130 bearings are metric. You can buy the flanges from AZcar or have a machine shop cut off,turn and weld the cv flanges onto the S30 hubs. The other option is to have the axle housings bored out, it's only about .010. If you do that you can use the later 5 lug hubs.
  6. You will have a line show through between those two areas because the feathers are too short. I would rewipe about 6' past the two spots and join them. Just a thin final wipe and use a block about 24" long so it will straddle them. You should be using 220 grit now. Stay off the body line untill the very last. You are sanding a compound curve. The body line should be from the door and daylights out over the wheel arch and reappears to the end. Compare it to the other side. If that is rattle can primer you need to take it off or your base coat might lift. If you are going to have a pro shoot it ask them about it now. Some prefer to do the primer sealer themselves. If he says rattle can is okay then take it to someone else.
  7. I sold my L28ET. Now I have my Q45 up on stands to pull the engine trans and diff to put in my '70 240Z. I'm having trouble finding time right now but it's a start.
  8. I would remove it because of the delayed shrinkage. Build it up in thin layers. When you sand, straddle the spot with the 24" flexible block. You can get them from ebay or Eastwood. After you get it close as you can paint it with high build primer and block the whole car the same way. You will find spots that need more work. If you don't spend the time you will have a paint job that will make you want to sell it. Patience, I spent months doing mine. I didn't have any experience but I do now and I'm not afraid to do it again. Buy the right tools!
  9. A line sander is too ridgid. You have created flat spots that will show through the paint. The "feathers" should be 10 times longer and also the bondo feathers into the evercoat making the flat spots. You can rewipe the area way beyond what you have and use a 24" polyurethane board sanding diagonally accross the area in an X pattern. If you paint over that you will be disappointed. Cheap fillers continue to shrink.
  10. The only problem I see with that is the glass filler is harder and will resist the sanding slightly more than the Evercoat causing an uneven surface. As long as you don't sand through the Evercoat you'll be okay. If you covered over any rust then you did waste your time.
  11. I like using ratcheting tie down straps. I loop one under the pan in front and one in the rear. Position the hook just 6" above the valve cover and adjust them for balance. As you lift you can tighten the front strap to compensate for the boom angle change. Straps are cheap and won't cause damage. Get the ones rated at at least 1000lbs. I have pulled engines weighing twice as much by myself.
  12. I can make more so pm me, Tom
  13. AC yes ps no. I made this for my S30. We have to muscle our cars around but AC is a must. A larger diameter code wheel and different adaptor hub might allow for the ps pulley. I spaced it out away from the damper to avoid any possible feedback. In fact the stock fan won't quite clear. James said he will be using electric fans.
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