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HybridZ

highly

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About highly

  • Birthday 05/13/1971

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    javatodd@hotmail.com
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    javatodd32@yahoo.com

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    Piedmont, OK

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  1. Hopefully it's OK to mention this here. I just picked up 4 Koni 8610 1437 RACE shocks for $164 apiece from Autoplicity. They arrived today. $656 for four, free shipping. Seemed like the kind of deal someone here might be interested in. Have a great weekend! -Todd *** not in any possible way affiliated except for having just purchased from them! ***
  2. Any update on fitment of the aforementioned glan nuts? TIA! -Todd
  3. I've got a n/a L28 from a '78 with FI. Harness too. No trans, but with clutch and flywheel. In Piedmont, OK (NW of OKC). Just came out of the car this last weekend. Feel free to PM if you don't find what you need elsewhere! Thanks!
  4. I've just upped my dose of Zyban to try to quit smoking (again) so my head's a little more fuzzy than normal today. Literally, I'm not in my right mind at the moment! Normally I'd respond sarcastically in a just-poking-fun way, but I don't trust myself to type it in a way that would be funny and not just piss you off. It's funny in my head, though. The original problem was that this adapter didn't fit on my 280's hub because the wheel bearing interfered with the too-small "doughnut hole" of the wheel adapter. Fixed it by opening the doughnut hole on my lathe to tightly fit over said area of interference. All better now. Mostly I was curious as to what hub this adapter was actually designed for. Seems nobody knew. It's REdesigned to fit a 280 hub now! Oddly, the studs on this particular set of adapters... the Honda bolt pattern part... are threaded 12x1.25. Pain in the a3 as I can't use my original locking tuner lugs for those wheels and have to buy another set...! WHAT were they THINKING?! Big head + little arms... "I don't think this plan was very well thought out!"
  5. Found a backing plate locally for cheap and milled some slots in it. Bolted up the adapter with four 12x1.25 nuts, trued to center with an indicator, and made the cuts. Done.
  6. Propane-induced heat and my 1.5 ton arbor press indicated that wasn't going to be as simple as you would think. Those bad boys are IN THERE. Considering these adapters are closing in on $200 after shipping from MM, I was not going to rush in to tear them up if I can help it (have to successfully remove and replace 16 studs keeping them square) ... so I posted for advice I'm still considering how I might make a >simple< jig to turn these bad boys with the studs in place while keeping them concentric, but in the meantime want to explore the other options. So nobody happens to know the hub size for a ZX?
  7. Chucking it up in the lathe IS a serious option; My 9x20 will support the swing, but there's no way to chuck the part without making the fixture in either my 3" 3-jaw or 4" 4-jaw. You can't get around the studs to grip the outer face. I will try to get ahols of Ross later today...
  8. I purchased a set of "never installed preowned" wheel adapters some time back. When I purchased them the seller indicated they were for the S30 to fit Honda wheels. The adapter's center hole is too small to fit cleanly over the S30 hub alignment flange. The adapters are marked as follows: MML CROW 4x114.3mm 4x100mm Made In USA The inner diameter measures out to 70.28mm Are these designed for something else? Possibly a ZX? It would be good to know what they are supposed to fit for resale or trade towards what I need. I'd have to press the studs out to chuck it up in the lathe to make them fit, and I really don't want to do that. Thanks -Todd
  9. I was just out taking a drive trying to get my '77 to overheat after a new radiator (it wouldn't...yay!) and noticed a gorgeous yellow Z with what appeared from the road to be a V8 in her sitting on a red trailer in someone's yard. Just wondering who it is as I'd love to come by and take a look sometime. I live maybe 1/4 mile away as the crow flies. I'm in Winding Creek II off of Sara Road. Current projects in the shop are my '77 red rustbucket with an L28ET swap, 'squirted and constantly in a state of transformation and a '78 chassis with a 250GTO rebody that will get all the innards of the '77 when the bodywork is done. Feel free to drop me a message if you happen to see this! Thanks -Todd
  10. I guess I'll have a look around at Ace this afternoon for a long M16x1.5. If that fails I'll give BHJ a call. I'm just surprised this has turned into such a fiasco! Thanks for the pointers!
  11. OK, so where the heck do you get a harmonic damper/balancer installation tool with an M16x1.5 threaded adapter? I waited 2 weeks to get my Comp Cams installer in (mail order) and it included TWO M16x2.0 adapters, but no M16x1.5. Spent 2 1/2 hours on the phone with Comp Cams and they had no idea what I was talking about. Called every auto parts store in the area and nobody has that thread pitch on an install tool. To rent OR buy. Help? I'm in NW Oklahoma City...
  12. Here's the solution I used for the performance damper. Not shown are 4 BHCS to affix the reluctor ring to the adapter. Derek- If you would like the IGS file or toolpath, just drop me a PM and I'll email it to you. I do NOT know how the spacing is with the sensor mount you sell, though, as I do not have one. I can give you measurements if you need them.
  13. Part of my point; the easy location for the air temp sensor is to merely screw it into the intake manifold in an available tapped hole. For the initial install and to get the car running, I took the easy route. There are a couple of threads on the board that discuss the heatsoak of the manifold and sensor that happens when you take the easy route. I have now remedied that problem by drilling a hole in my UICP and installing a bung to allow the IAT sensor to be after the intercooler and before the throttle plate. The new location is behind the radiator support, but allows some airflow over the sensor. The car is currently up on stands gatting a transmission and clutch swap (the PO used a turbo 5-speed with a N/A flywheel and clutch. The turbo tranny groans and was full of metal shavings and the clutch slipped after 6psi, so that had to change.) I should have the transmission in the car this afternoon and hopefully get a chance to drive it by Sunday afternoon. It will probably take a little while before I get a good feel for the changes with the new IAT location, but I can't imagine it's made things worse!
  14. Glad to help. I am kinda surprised that there isn't more info on the board about correcting the little niggly things, but I am pretty picky. What bothers me may not bother everyone. On the IAT location, I don't expect having the sensor in the UCIP will cure the cold weather over-enrichment, but telling MS "the truth" can't be a bad thing. Reducing the heat soak has got to help stabilize the tune. If nothing else it should help bring the base temps down from the 130-plus that I have been seeing. I'm in the middle of a clutch and transmission swap but should be done by the weekend, so I hope to report back then.
  15. Well, after further searching, I came across this on the MSExtra forum: clicky I think I will try moving the IAT to the upper intercooler pipe first and see how that does, then give this a try. My car is also rather unhappy with a hot restart, so it sounds like it may help. I am still open to any thoughts anyone might have on the issue!
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