burkeys

The matching washer to go with the ARP RB26 flywheel bolt (arp #102-2801) that Tony D mentioned is ARP part # 200-8710, you must order 6 of the washers. Note: The inner diameter chamfer on the washer goes against the head of the bolt. If you do not do this, the washer may cut the head of the bolt off. I have not tried this yet, so I do not know if the clutch will clear bolts with washers under them but I think it will work...Ill try to post more when I get it together. Thanks Tony.

So you are going from a internally oiled n42 to a internally oiled N42 right? Just swap the cam, rockers, valve stem top caps. Leave the towers in place unless there is a real reason not to. Measure the thickness of the new head from the deck to the surface the valve cover bolts to, if its within spec, no cam tower shims are required. Check the cam wipe pattern on the rockers, adjust if needed, odds are you won't have to adjust anything unless the new head was super shaved or your old head was shaved and the new head was not etc. But if both heads are close to stock, it should be plug and play. If you are unsure...a good machine shop should be able to help you figure it out.

Tony, what are you guys using to keep your timing chain tension happy? I recently had all of my exhaust valves kiss the pistons. This happened when my throttle linkage became stuck causing the engine to idle at 4k. I drove to a open late Walmart to buy an allen wrench to fix the linkage. On the way, the engine saw extended higher rpms with more abrupt than normal street rpm changes. After the linkage was fixed the valve train was louder. Found 2 cracked intake valve spring retainers, which is odd because none of the intakes touched the pistons. Pulled the head to change all of the Schnider springs and retainers to Isky and found nicks on the pistons. Could have been valve float but I suspect the chain tensioner may have momentarily been over come by chain tension creating slack. I doubt the engine saw anything over 7500rpm that night, I doubt it went over 7k but it is possible. I have about 8000 miles on the build. @bluestang the best I could do with SU's, L28, stock crank and flat top pistons 10.25 comp ratio, ported slovers N42 head was 191 rwhp with about 180 fpt. Very streetable, idle at 1000rpm. Scott B

Good Luck TJ! Tourque on the SU's was 180fp. I never ran 40mm DCOEs. On the 45mm DCOE's the right venturi size makes a huge difference! Going from 34mm to 38mm gave a 16hp bump but had a small loss at 3000rpm. Thanks to Dave Rebello for the tip. After reading Tony D's posts on the land speed car I'm wondering more about the benefits of ITB's. Wondering how much more power, if any, is possible. Of course dollar per HP gained at this point may not be worth it. Scott B

I totally agree with Tony D's "it's the combination of parts", everything complements each other. Details on my L2.8 build: f54 L28 bored .020 over cast flat top pistons, stock crank, stock rods, arp rod bolts. N42 head, stock valves, combustion chambers welded and ported by Slovers 44.1 cc chambers, Fel Pro head gasket. Isky custom grind cam 540 lift, 270 duration. THANKS TONY D for the Isky tip! Pacesetter 3 into 2 header with MSA 2 1/2in exhaust kit. 280zx distributor, MSD II coil. 10.25 to 1 comp ratio, 7000rpm red line, 91 octane gas. SU's with SM needles made 190.7 at the wheels, on the same dyno and no changes except carbs,Weber 45's, 38mm chokes made 214.6 hp at the wheels and 198fp torque. Honestly, this combo has far exceeded my expectations. It has a mellow idle at 1000rpm and pulls hard from 4400 to 7000. Super happy with it. Scott B.