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MikeyZee

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About MikeyZee

  • Birthday 03/22/1968

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    Parker, Colorado

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  1. I have a Megasquirt 1 pcb v3.00 that I purchased assembled and would like to test it on a stim before I install it. If you have a working JimStim or stimulator 2.2 you are wanting to get rid of let me know. I do not need the wheel simulator and all that so simple is good. Thanks, Mike mguzinski@gmail.com 303-435-1866
  2. I think you would have to get another relay and put it in series to break the ground if no pressure making the ground. The way the factory one works is that if you are starting it will also complete the circuit. I don't think having the switch to battery power will work. It's like you would need a defeat in the event of no oil pressure and you still need to make sure you are making fuel pressure on start as well. That is what I am dealing with right now since my fuel pump runs constantly, key on, crank, no oil pressure. My fuel pump control relay is faulty and I have not been able to find a replacement. I'll let you know if I can come up with any specifics.
  3. http://www.delcity.net/ cheapest I have found
  4. ahhhh.....gottcha. Just making sure you have everything you need connected to make the "car" run and disconnecting that is not needed. Sorry I can't be more help but I feel your pain......
  5. I'm not sure if you will need to keep the originals installed. I mean allot of the connections go to the factory ECU but are sometimes terminated to the harness in other places like to feed the gauges and things like that. I know the Fuel Pump Control only sends power to the ECU and then Powers the Fuel Pump relay. So, not sure if those would be needed. The EFI relay also sends signal to the factory ECU so not sure if that would have to be kept in tact to make the car run. Now, you are using EDIS right? So anything connected to the factory ignition may not have to be connected either I would imagine. I know allot of guys have used MS. It seems to be the preferred aftermarket ECU. I have seen a huge amount of post for it. Have you looked in the specific "Megasquirt" section of the forums? http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/forum/34-megasquirt/ I wish I would have gone with MS after dealing with so many issues getting mine retrofitted. The guys in the MS know their stuff. It's been done before and I'm sure they can help more than I could.
  6. I am not familiar with the Megasquirt but I know there are threads out there specific to that. I used the factory 78 ECU working in my son's 72. The fuel pump control relay and fuel pump relay should act the same. I know allot of people go with the outboard relays instead. The 78 relays are specific to the 78 and seems like they are not readily available. I have a bad fuel pump control relay and have not been able to find a working one so I will have to construct my own. The fuel pump control in mine is wired up like this: (If you have the harness that plugs into the relay for the color codes) Fuel Pump Control WB to Fuel Pump Relay (powers the fuel pump relay) L to the Alternator S Terminal (Engine Run??) BY to Starter Connection (Ignition Start) WB to Umbilical WB (signal to ECU) YB to Oil Pressure Sending Unit (shuts off with no Oil Pressure and not in start) Fuel Pump Relay WB to Fuel Pump Control Relay GL to Fused Battery/Starter Constant 12v (same as the Fusible Link would be) GL to Fuel Pump (+) (supplies power to the fuel pump) Just looked at the wiring for the Holley and truthfully that looks easier than the factory but same concept. I'm not sure if that will help you or if that's what you are looking for. The thing I had a problem with is sending the injection pulse to the ECU.
  7. You mean like this? http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/86982-converting-a-current-driven-tacho-into-an-electronic-tacho/page__p__855735__hl__%2Bconvert+%2B280z+%2Btach__fromsearch__1#entry855735
  8. The 78 has a fuel pump control relay and the actual fuel pump relay. Other years had the relay behind the kick panel on the drivers side. On the 78 they are both under that beer can shelf on the passenger side right in front of the battery. There is also the fuel injection main relay there as well as an inhibitor relay and a/c relay. I did not have the later two. The big relay is the fuel pump control relay which actually has 2 relays in one case. The next one from left to right is the fuel pump relay then the EFI main relay. I can't remember where I found it but I think it may have been on http://www.atlanticz.ca/ where I found the pictures of the relay bracket. I know it's in the FSM from http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html but sometimes those aren't the easiest to read. As far as the ignition relay....I left the original 240z one in the car.
  9. Is your 260 an EFI or carb? If it's EFI here is a link on a previous post http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/17205-msd-6btm/page__p__125166__hl__%2Bmsd6a+%2B8920__fromsearch__1#entry125166 Check out the link in there with the hand written diagram. Also if you need the FSM it is available here. http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html They have all the factory wiring diagrams. Not sure about the 260 but on my son's 240z which has a different tach it was a little different.
  10. I am looking for a CAI for a 78 280z NA EFI. I would prefer a K&N oiled type of filter. Please contact me email, PM, or phone. Thanks! Mike Guzinski mguzinski@gmail.com 303-435-1866
  11. Here is a post that helped me. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/37376-getting-your-early-240z-tachometer-working-with-an-msd-6-series-ignition/page__p__298874__hl__%2B8920+%2Bmsd__fromsearch__1#entry298874 It is real straight forward. Hey your in Colorado too? I'm in Parker.
  12. I have checked the voltage and operation of the cold start and seems the thermo time switch may be bad. There is no continuity on the switch when cold, nothing changes at all on the switch from being in the fridge to being in boiling water. Bad thermo time switch. In Colorado mornings have been down in the 60s, soon to dip down into the 40-50 range within 2 months. I want to make sure it's pretty easy to hop in and just start. I have done some research and the thermo time switch actually completes the ground of the circuit and introduces a ground to the cold start injector to allow it to fire. If I ground the cold start injector while starting it fires right up. The #21 is filled in the harness but since the ground is handled bu the thermo time switch the wiring for that going back to the #21 in the harness is not needed, thus no connection to the ECU and no pin in #21 on the ECU. I have researched and it's the same ECU for 76, 77, and 78. Both of my ECUs are this way (A11-600-000). I have the 78 manual and looking at the other ones would just confuse matters since it's a different animal then the other years I have found. I know the fuel pump should not run when the car is in the on position when the car is not running and my problem with that seems to be a bad fuel pump control relay. The relay is a dual relay, saying that both must be switched on to get power to the fuel pump. My relay as tested will allow the fuel pump to run regardless of if oil pressure is present or not. Bench testing shows that is I power either side of the relay the circuit will be energized, either....not both. As an in car test I had the car running and unplugged the connection to the oil pressure sender and the engine continues to rum, thus a bad fuel pump control relay. These are not easy to find it seems and may have to make my own to make it work properly. I have heard that some EFI Zs will run the fuel pump for a few seconds when you turn the key to the "on" position to allow a "prime" but have not been able to confirm that for sure. I may have missed something from the EFI bible but that was written based on a 76 so some things are different. I am still using the Jacobs ignition and it is working flawlessly. It looks like I'll put the MSD in my Dakota if I'm not using it in the Z....bonus!!! The tach is still off but not real worried about that until we get the starting glitch, the fuel pump control relay, and a few other issues worked out. Although timing it accurately without knowing the actual RPM is well....impossible. We may go ahead and put a 280z tach in it to eliminate extra "stuff" under the hood but who knows at this point. All in all I think things are coming together nicely. Starts (with the jumper), runs, and drives this point, down to fine tuning at this point. I really appreciate all the help with these issues and could not have done it without all the help from the board members. The good thing about this board is that you get many different opinions on what may be wrong and sometimes helps you think outside of your box. Oh and thanks again for the tach adapter, that will help immensely! I guess at this point we can call this solved! Thanks so much again! I know my son is just so excited to get his Z with the new guts back on the road.
  13. "With regard to your remaining car issues, I suspect your no start condition might be related to either (1) the fuel pump is not getting power on the key "start" position or (2) at very low (starting) rpms, the EFI box is not getting a strong enough signal on Pin1 to know to send fuel to the cylinders. I think in your thread you mentioned that the fuel pump was running in the start position, but the simplest way to check is to disconnect the fuel line after the filter and turn the key. Might be a little messy, but it's foolproof." The pump is running in "on" and "start" 13.2 V or whatever the battery is reading at that point. I just spray about half a shot of starting fluid and it fires up like a charm. I can fool the entire cold start system too by putting 12v + and - on the leads.....hear the injector click once then turn it over and starts right up. It just seems like the cold start system in my 78 is not complete with that #21 pin just not being on any of my ECUs. Maybe the thermo-time switch when energizes shorts against the ground and sends the signal back to the cold start injector. I checked to see if either of the pins on the thermo-time switch are grounded to the chassis and one is. That may be a possibility because the thermo-time and the cold start injector are in parallel.
  14. Hey all. My son and I just got his 72 with a 78 fuel injected motor running. One of the problems we are having is that the cold start injector is not firing. I tested it by running direct power to it and it does click and sprays gas. When I did this and cranked the motor over it fired right up. Previously the only way to get it to start was to spray some starting fluid in it. I traced back the wiring and studied the diagrams and it shows that the leads run back to #21 and #4. These two wires also are connected to the thermotime switch according to the diagram and confirmed by a continuity tester. The problem seems to be completely wierd. One of the leads from the thermotime switch and cold start injector both come back to the #4 position of the ECU connector the other one comes back to the #21 position of the ECU connector. The #4 wire is confirmed to get power on start through the umbilical cord BY wire. The power also feeds to the cold start injector and the thermotime switch on start. The thing that is puzzling me is that the #21 position on the ECU connector has no pin on the ECU for it to terminate. The 2 ECU I have are a11-600-000 which is supposed to be the correct ECU. I also have another harness from a 78 and it is identical. Has anyone else noticed this? Do I somehow have the wrong ECU? I have checked to see if maybe there is a splice in the harness but there is not. Anyone have any insight or knowledge of how to get this working? Thanks All!
  15. Thanks to everyone for the input and food for thought. I found a post earlier about the 8920 tach adapter and a neat little schematic. Like I said I have an 8920 for the 240z tach. I hooked hooked it up as the schematic says (added the switched power to the red lead). Then something that Pharaohabq said about it being 180 out. I thought maybe I got it off a little when I had the head pulled. We pulled the valve cover tonight and turns out the cam was lined up perfectly to the crank. Hmmm? But the dizzy was out 180. The dizzy was the 79 280zx dizzy that we had put on the L24 to convert it to electronic ignition. Guess we grabbed the wrong on! The ZX dizzy is 180 out from the 280Z distributor! Swapped it out for the correct one from the 280z and started to try to start. Sprayed a little starting fluid in it and fires right up! WOO HOO! It's just a little loud with the open header! The next thing we have to figure out is why it won't start without the starting fluid. The 78 280z wiring diagram has the position #21 connector terminated to the cold start injector and thermotime switch. Pin #21 on the ECU has nothing in there, no pin to connect to at all. The two ECUs I have are a11-600-000 and neither one has a pin in the #21 position. Any one run across this before? I have not actually tested to see if the cold start injector is working at this point. I'll have to check this tomorrow. If anyone has any insight about this please let me know. Another thing is the tach seems to be reading high. Barely idling at about 700 RPM (by ear) shows as it's at 1100-1200 RPM on the factory 240z tach. I have yet to put another tach on there but it just seems inaccurate. Wasn't there a cure for this by putting a resistor or diode in the signal line? If not I guess I can either get a 280z tach or a 8910 tach adapter for the EFI and use the 8920 for the tach. Any help is appreciated! Thanks all.
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