76280z

If all else fails, find a shop that has a smoke machine. We only charge 1 hour to test for most leaks, and it really only takes 2 seconds to find intake/exhaust leaks. (or I guess you could disconnect a vacuum line, get a cigar, and start puffing)

If it smells rich and is misfiring, just start pulling the plug wires one at a time, if you pull one off and it doesn't change the running problems at all, you found it. Maybe you accidently cracked the porcelian on a plug, or don't have one gapped right.

I guess everyone just ignored my first post on this thread. It doesn't really matter what kind of piston we 'think would work well'. Engineers have said the flat top pistons are supposed to be used with the peanut shaped combustion chamber head. Given, the head I used as an example was a fast burn SBC head, but come'on, they've only had 50 years of R&D with that engine. And the chamber shape is identical to a MN or a P series head.

well, if a sbc will fit into an s10, and l6 swap should be pretty easy.

I'm currently building up a mn-47 head. The head info on the forums here has been invaluable, however I think the mn-47 is seriously underrated. I figured I'd try an mn47 because of favorable forum reviews. However, here at the shop I work at, we ordered some GM performance "fast burn" cylinder heads for a customers car. The gm fast burn heads are "high quench" heads, after seeing them I went to the junkyards I got a couple more mn47's, just as extras (since I know they are prone to cracking). Here's a link to a pic of the GM performance fast burn, high quench heads. http://www.superchevy.com/tech/0310sc_increasing_horsepower/photo_03.html The web site I got this pic from also said this: The name "Fast Burn" refers to its combustion chamber's ability to quickly and completely burn the air/fuel mixture. The chamber shape is designed to work best with flattop pistons and GM does not recommend that you try to re-shape the chamber for more power.

^^It's all about the smoke machine, for finding vacuum leaks.

It can happen if the wires are new. I had it happen with new wires once, one rubbing up against a water line. Cheap wires though.

Real world example, I've seen plenty of plug wires that have swiss cheese boots on them. I've seen some arc while the engine is running, little mist of water makes it all pretty obvious. I'm not a physics prof.... just a mechanic. However, if we are on the subject of cool physics stuff relating to ign. sys components; Anybody here ever gone into the garage on a moonless night and run their I-6 engine to see the spark corona? Very cool, I did it a couple of months ago, one night with nothing better to do. Spark corona is the faint bluish glow that radiates from the engine block around the base of the spark plugs. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but i think it's from the flood of ions penetrating the metal; immediatly following the townsend avalanche on the spark plug. Either way, it looks cool.

I agree with hughdogz, the quality of the wire definitly comes into play. We put a set of 10.5mm custom Taylor made wires on a hot rod and the timing light wouldn't read through them. (I really like the Taylor's) But even best wires will sucumb to electron tunnelling over time. Dragonfly's tiewrap idea works great, and the price is right. I do that to just about every customers vehicle where the wires are everywhere or the factory wire holders are broken off. p.s. it's cheating if you are using coil packs

I don't post much on the forum, I mostly look at other peoples engine pics. So many of you out there have put together some beautiful motors (make me wish I spent more time on my last one). However, and I don't mean to preach, how come so few people seperate their wires?! In most of the pics I see the wires are zip tied together in one big bunch. This is a bad thing to do. The wires can rub together and eventually wear each other. Second (and this is more likely) the high voltage going throught the wires will eventually cause pinholes (electron tunneling) when the wires are near something else that is conductive (ie another wire). Over time these tunnels will continue to enlarge, until you will actually have arcing between the wires. As you can see in the attached pic, I didn't do a perfect job, but it works. p.s. Sorry the pic is so big, i don't know how to resize them

Has anybody seen the last Burkland 411? What did it do like 450mph?!!!

I've got a 76 280 (full cage, motor in progress). And here's a couple of engine pics of the 78 2+2 I built for my girlfriend:

I bought my first z a year ago, a 1978 2+2 (planned on it being a fixer upper just to sell), well I brought it home and my girlfriend went crazy over it, so I fixed it up and gave it to her. I bought another one, a 76 280, and am currently building it for top speed runs. I've built quite a few different cars, I'm a mechanic (not just my profession, my passion), and I really love the old Z's. Anyway, just wanted to say hi to the other z lovers out there. And here are some engine pics of the 2+2 I built (sorry, no exterior pics, but the body's all stock except for front air dam)

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=10290&group_ID=1239&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog Works awesome. hmmnm, then again, anything I've ever used a slide hammer on didn't resist too much.

The mazda 787B had variable length runners (telescoping) this might one to look at. Many newer cars have a variable geometry intake (a big round thing) where the runners curve around inside and it uses a valve to vary it (newer chryslers, fords, BMW's, etc.)