tomz

Nowhere does it say max on either figure. This is just my power band. My power comes on at 35 annd I shift at 65. Your assuming these are peak figures.

I'll put it this way. I'm running a ford boss block @ 5.4 ltrs,with a built to the hilt bottom end. Thumper turbo. The cam is a comp cams turbo cam, 580/580 lift on a 114LCA 246/236 @ 050. 624TRQ @ 3500, 984 HP @ 6500. At 20LBS Sounds like you might get quite a bit of lag, unless your going to spin this this thing into the stratosphere. I would suggest if nothing else, go with a bigger LCA. Good Luck, Tommy

I've been there done that. With Z motors and ford 302. Save the 240 and 260 motors. maybe they'll be worth something some day. The 302 is 50 lbs lighter than the chevy or the datsun. Also, since the distributor is in the front, the ford 302 is like it's made for the 240,260,280 datsuns. I'f you use a motor plate, you can git it to serve as the strut tower brace, and front motor mount. As far as trans goes use the T-5. There cheap and available. As far as the swap. This site has at least five, very detailed and proffessional swaps with pictures, and what you need as far as parts are concerned. Not to mention the aftermarket. READ! No other site has the combined knowledge of these guys. Not by a long shot. Good luck.

Just curious guys. Are we talking about a "bad to the bone" street car, or a "track only" car? What application are we talking about. I mean a $3000 motor or a $30000 motor. A 3ltr motor, or a 6ltr?

What I'm trying to say is said best here. http://www.turbochargedpower.com/Camshafts.htm. Now I'll shut-up and go work on my 331 sbf 90mm turbo "72Z.

The thing is that your msa cam has a 114% lobe ctr which would make it ok. The stock turbo cam runs on a 110% lobe ctr which makes a BIG diff. Had you rather make 500HP at 5000 RPM or 500HP at 5500 RPM.

The extra 8% is before TDC. This is bad for a turbo, because if it opens early, you get back pressure, and extra heat. Nissan made this a turbo cam for a reason, cause it works good with boost. NA cams use overlap to scavenge the cylinder. Can't scavenge with forced induction, especially turbo,s. I've seen this head, cam combo make 500HP with intercooler. just crank-up the boost.

When I spend the money for a built motor, efi, big turbo, and want to protect my investment, the F.A.S.T. XFI is the best way to go. and money well spent.

Unless you want to spend a lot of money for new springs, and head work, your about @ max lift with the stock cam. Lift is just about the only improvement you could make except for minor opening and closing events of the valves. The good news is that for your HP objective, the stock cam will work fine. Just shoot for 13-15LBS of boost, pick the right turbo, don't take short cuts and your there. On the other hand you could dump that motor, and put a real one in there and forget the turbo. Your HP would be there, and you could run pump gas.

Think about it all pre-60's cars had steel dashes. Example 55/56/57 Chevys. All paint was gloss. A lot of it was 2 tone (cool). Check at your next car show. Will post pics when done. Done before, works great. Remember, I'm an old fart.

I just used fiberglass on my cracked dash. I applied it everyplace except the glovebox. you have a smooth finish, no cracks, and I painted it with the same paint I used on my car.