mr jdm

I dont understand what you are struggling with? If you have a 1997 KA motor that is complete, you have the complete harness, and the ecu. Plug everything up in, the connector by the ecu that you can not plug into anything on a Z chassisyou will have to cross reference and wire up. This isnt hard, if you want to send me your harness I can do this for 300$

As far as tuning systems goes, anything can be learned and tuned, but why be the car someone learns on? The AEM will give more accurate tuning RPM band wise, some more features, and be a self contained unit. Not sure where you got your statement from but Aem is 16x16 maps IIRC Haltech has had 32x32 maps since the e8. I have it on my Z. If a tuner can tune AEM, then can tune a haltech. Also, AEM has had NOTHING but problems reading the Nissan Factory CAS. You even have to install their own disc in. Haltech reads the factory disc. Haltech is a better system. I would even take an out dated E8 over a series 2 AEM

Its 2013, if your putting an SR20 in your car then it better have a VE head on it

This is a really old thread that I forgot to update, but I wanted everybody to know to anybody who thought it was going to be a bad brake system, or a soft pedal You were completely wrong. Another perfect example why you shouldn't believe what everybody says until you try it yourself. My pedal is as firm as it can be and I have no issues with the entire system being stainless steel braided

I want to buy both a front and a rear, please update this with pictures as soon as you can

This happened to my motor once as well, I rode #3 got chewed bad. Also, some of the newer VE fwd oil pick ups, they have no brace at all. Perhaps a better solution might be instead of adding a brace, welding completely around the head/tube joint, and the tube/flange joint

This is the exact setup on my car. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-NISSAN-SILVIA-S14-S15-SR20DET-SR20-/230851320397?hash=item35bfcf9a4d&item=230851320397&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr *** ***** But the s13 version, no the s14 My manifold is a direct bolt on for sr20. The IACV is welded SHUT ( I cracked my throttle open and my car idled a SOLID 900 rpm, that is no exaggeration, a perfect, no fluctuation, 900 RPM) 2 Of the ports are welded shut, so you have 2 1/8 NPT and 1 1/4 NPT There is a bracket for a LOKAR throttle cable I believe this is the throttle body you would need to buy if you bought my manifold http://www.ebay.com/itm/100MM-Silver-Universal-Aluminum-Intake-Manifold-Throttle-Body-R32-R33-R34-Turbo-/330802300895?hash=item4d055a87df&item=330802300895&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr 165 shipped for the manifold, spent a 100 on a 100mm throttle body, and you have yourself a good setup for the price.

Bump, car ran great and was fun to drive. Just recently installed my VE head. Just need to build and intake manifold and button up a few things and then head back to the dyno. Also, anybody with an sr20det Z, my original intake manifold is for sale. It is pictured on the first page. Intake manifold only for sale, if you want you can pick up the 100mm throttle body I use with it on ebay. I am looking for 165 shipped for the manifold. It is cast aluminum with protruding velocity stacks. Can't wait to see the numbers with the VE head installed

BUMP

Its waste of effort. I have an sr20 in mine with 245's on front. You definetly dont need power steering at all.

On paper people will tell you dont tap that low because on the sr20 the oil pan is always full, so the oil return wont draing back In reality, people have done this with many other motors and have never had an issue Something you need to decide.

Looking to purchase some arizona Z parts, checking if anybody wants to sell there stuff before I decide to buy it brand new. I am looking for Arizona Z Car Wilwood Front and Rear Brake kits Arizona Z car Front control arms with tension rods Arizona Z car Rear Control Arms Let me know what you got and how much you are thinking. Thanks

Blow through mafs are common setups, just there isn't too much room on the cold side I/C piping to fit a maf If your creative you can incorporate something similar to this http://www.kstech.biz/catalog/2008_MAF_Flange%20010.jpg But at the same time, some of the best builds are results from keeping things simple. And having a draw through maf setup with an OPEN bov doesn't always run like ****. It depends on the BOV and how responsive it is and whether its open or closed at idle.

I think horsepower numbers added to this would be some what helpful

Thanks for the post, I learned something new. Im going to throw one in this weekend and see if it makes a difference.