winfab

It does help, but the "should" clear stock suspension still leaves me unsure. There has to be someone who knows for sure, no? My goal is to be running Tokico shocks, Eibach Pro Kit springs, and either the 17's, or I may just settle for a set of RB-R in 16x8. Essentially, to solve all issues, I can run a 17x8.5 front and a 17x9.5 rear, correct? What would the correct offset be in a 17x8.5, same at -13mm? Is there another thread anywhere, that people have posted pics of their rides, and actually posted rim size and offsets? Thanks! Jay

Sorry, after reading this whole post, has anything like this been done, as far as breaking down what works with and without flares, tire sizes, lowering springs, and offsets? I may have missed it as well, its quite a lot of reading LOL... Thanks Jay

What was the offset on these wheels?

I'm not sure, since i still dont have the tranny bolted up all the way. However, when i did the test fit, i had it jacked up pretty much where it would be, and I didn't have a problem getting the yoke on the tranny. Can you take a picture of the tranny mount location, and the problem piece thats in your way? If you want, you can email me at winfabtuning@gmail dot com directly, so its faster correspondence. Jay

Well the guy that had the diff flaked out on me, so now it looks like i have to buy a whole 280Z just for the differential and such. If anyone needs some 280Z parts, PM me with your email address, and when i get the car i will part it out. Jay

Looking for a R200 from a manual trans 280Z, with all the extra parts required to swap in to an early 240Z. Differential moustache bar transverse link stub axles I am in the Detroit, MI area, so hopefully someone in the vicinity has these parts avail. You can PM me or email me at hondachips@gmail.com Thanks! Jay

The Tilton I used was the 75-875U. I kept the Tilton pushrod because i figured I would need more throw using the 7/8" rather than the stock MC, that's all. If i need to cut it down to size, then I can, but with the Datsun pushrod, you can't make it longer if the clutch on the LS1 won't disengage all the way. Jay

I'm not necessarily looking for the cheapest route, just the most feasible. Most of the time people sell the mustache bar for as much as a whole differential! Yeah im gonna switch to the R200 for sure. Just waiting on the guy selling it to get back to me. Thanks for all the input, really helped me out. Looks like I have a diff swap in the near future. Sucks too, since the motor is in and wired. I still have the fuel system to tackle though, so that should keep me busy for a while. Jay

I just want to be sure that its gonna sit back further than the R180 I have in there now, so i can use the driveshaft that Johns Cars sent me without cutting it down an inch. If i remember correctly, even if i was just swapping the differential by itself, I would have to use the longer 280Z driveshaft as well.

Well i have found a R200 from a 76 MT 280Z, with everything incl. stub axles, moustache bar, etc. and it should have the 3.56 gearing in it i believe. Even if the pinion dimeter and bolt spacing is different, JCI said they could send me the right one or I could send them the driveshaft and they would swap it for me. Have to wait to see if the guy still has it though.

So i have an early '71 240Z. Fitted the LS1 in the engine bay (the JCI mounts work great BTW) and get the trans (T56) in place, try to fit the driveshaft and its too long. Buried the yoke all the way into the T56, and still at least 1/2 inch too long. So, it seems that since I have the early "forward-mounted" R180 differential, then I have one question for you all. In theory then, if i swap out for a R200 differential, moustache bar, hanger, etc. this should then set the R200 back one inch or so, then my driveshaft will fit properly? Cheers Jay

I used the Tilton and its mint. One word of advice though. Grab yourself a 5/16 x 24NF tap beforehand, because you will have to tap the factory clutch pedal clevis threads to this size. Grab a nut is the same thread as well, as these parts do not come with the new Tilton piece.

A quick question about alternator placement issues. I have a 2004 C5 Vette LS1, complete with all accessories, going into a 1971 240Z. I know that people say to swap the Camaro alternator and bracket over to the Vette block. However, the belt runs about 3/4" closer to the block on the Vette. I am wondering if I can just swap the crank pulley, and tensioner pulley over from a Camaro LS1, and run the Camaro alternator...this should essentially make everything line up? It looks like the water pump sits out the same distance as the Camaro one, so the belt should still line up with the Vette oil pump. Anyone have any comments, or have done this and had enough clearance? Thanks! Jay

Found another post about options for fuel delivery: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103464&page=2 Still wondering what to use as a pre-pump filter? I've read that I should use a coarse filter (~100 microns) as to not make the pump work any harder than it has to. I was planning on using a GM filter, like the 82-up popular one, with the NPT lines on each side, but then i found out that it is a 10 micron filter. Any recommendations on a filter?

If anyone is interested in getting this done to their tank, there is actually more places than Moyers who performs this service. Here is a link to the website: http://www.gastankrenu.com/loc-dealer.htm And a link to an inexpensive sump: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200334166156&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem= Also, for anyone using the Corvette regulator/filter, and the external pump, what did you end up using for a filter before the pump?