Nostalgic_hero

Geez, did i miss a step in the posting process to be taken seriously? how many pics do i have to post before my " legit" meter is green.. Sigh.. I want to share so much.. aerospace fasteners, solid modeled parts and fabrication thereof, higher end materials and jacketing, kynar, tefzel, jetnuts, real racecar parts... but i guess im just on the wrong forum... anyways, heres my crap... http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii11/nostalgic_hero/DSC02357.jpg Racecar I was involved with for 2 seasons ( maintained this and a twin car, also maintained two previous cars for the same company) Actually crew chief'd this car for Robby Unser when he tried his hand at drifting, Put a Gforce T-5 Dog box in it and other crap, broke the box, visited G-force, saw their production house, etc. http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii11/nostalgic_hero/HPIM0417.jpg 350Z pro car made for FormulaD competition, was displayed at PRI, etc. (notice the kinsler check valve at the top) this plumbing was done in 2 days for display at PRI and SEMA. http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii11/nostalgic_hero/IMG_0913.jpg more handwork (chassis harnessing) done too much of this crap.. http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii11/nostalgic_hero/DSC00618.jpg my toolbox... i guess this shows some inclination to turning wrenches (insert malaise scarcasm) http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii11/nostalgic_hero/oilblock2.jpg http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii11/nostalgic_hero/exhaust1.jpg http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii11/nostalgic_hero/samplehoses2.jpg some of the random parts I've designed etc.. take it easy guys.. good luck with your projects and drive safely

Quote: --------------------------- "Pinholes?? Thats a good one" - Sigh.. At the bottom of the tank there appears to be a divot in the shape of a small hole, look at the picture. Of course you pressure tested it to 120psi or whatever shop pressure you have, but the image still looks like there is a divot. Quote: --------------------------- "I could have gold plated it too for that real "professional look"" - you mean like the Gold Zinc finish coating for the products done by Robert Linton's tiny company (Cartridge)? Why not go the full distance and add Ti hardware like Robert did with these lowly droplinks.. Or how about the lowliest of machined brackets.. the brake caliper bracket... yet... wow, gold zinc again? I guess its not that hard after all... You should wholly be aware that whatever gets posted online is fair game for any and all criticism... Now, with that said... Please PLEASE PLEASE dont take my criticism as cheap shots, I love seeing hand made work displayed, (as it seems to be a dying art on these forums). I especially love seeing hand made work that is optimized for weight and dimensions... and i ESPECIALLY LOVE seeing it look badass while doing it:-D speaking of weight, are those tabs .100 or .128 thk? Whats the thread dimensions on the bungs? Im wondering if there are adapter fittings going on. Maybe some radiused AN pieces would have slimmed things down (Weightwise and dimensionally) in this situation??? Post some more pics of this tank!! where is the return to the main tank.. Is there a 5-8psi checkvalve going back to the main tank??? ?????? edit : JSM, yes Winter Park, Fl... but i've since moved to Ft Lauderdale... Doing crestron programming and installation in the bahamas and south florida

Scotchbrite or stainless brush marks over the welds is amateur... I noticed the link at the bottom (allmetalfab.net) and saw that you guys do a bunch of commercial misc fab.... wouldnt you guys have one of these to use??? http://www.secoeng.co.uk/wd-electro-wand-20.php also, not to nitpick, but is the bottom weld seam ground down? maybe its the pic but it looks like there is a pinhole at the bottom of the tank. also, chamfering the mounting holes would prolly be a nice idea. overall, not bad.

get rid of that push on hose! Dude's welds are too hot, try running less amps, get a bigger cup and toss some steel wool in there to slow the gas down. take your time.. give the material time to cool down before moving the cup away.... are you post flowing? other than that, looking cool.. cant wait to see how the rest of it pans out

absolutely six shooter... i just posted the relay because it allows you to greatly shorten that alternator hot side (say by putting the relay right by the alternator. (this helps in rear battery mount, rear kill switch, front engine arrangements) cheers!

Im on the positive terminal cut camp.. but it does have its limitations. Mainly the wire running from the Alternator to the Positive terminal of the battery. Even when the main disconnect switch has been deactivated, there is a serious short potential when servicing the alternator if the alternator power output wire were to contact ground. There are some other options out there for people that NEED that extra step to keep sleeplessness at bay ... Kissling sells remote high amperage breakers that can be controlled electronically. so the alternator can be physically disconnected from the battery when ignition is cut. http://www.kissling.de/english/start_e/start_e.html cheers!

frosty.. looks like a pretty neat setup! I would humbly suggest redesigning the bracket in favor of putting that bolt in double shear. it would suck to snap that bolt off and drop the slave on the ground while driving down the road!

looks good, for a personal project, very nice! for manufacturing... kinda radius intensive. ooh, and it would prolly be nicer to have the holes THROUGH rather than blind (the pockets you made for the steel plate to trans hardware clearance) this makes servicing the unit just a tad more pleasant. (take a look at OE S13 trans crossmember and you'll see what i mean) as for the urethane... it should hold up.. PEAK makes mounts for SR motors that seem to do just fine... but their solid urethane dogbones tend to deflect and crap out after a year or so (poor design). Im sure you'll end up playing with different durometers anyways.. p.s. very european looking. Cheers!

ah.... its like ..that.

you may not NEED t-bolt clamps. Depending on the manifold pressure your ITB's are going to be subjected to, and if there is movement between your ITB's and the head flange. and if you have a sufficient bead for the hose to grip against. 1. Breeze hose clamps breezeclamps.com (i've been purchasing from C&R racing in indianapolis) 2. get ahold of a beadroller (unless your parts are cast) then a trip to a decent tig.