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gotxqss

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About gotxqss

  • Birthday 04/20/1982

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  1. Quik question . Anyone know what color the 17" rota rb-r comes in? I've sent few emails but never got an answer. Solid colors or always the polished lip?
  2. Perfect! Kept lookin at that liquids package i never used and now it will come in handy! Damn seeing the pro comp i think set there looks really good. Torn a bit on those the phantoms or maybe even the ultra lites. Got the white hurst shiftkmob so maybe phantoms
  3. did you just order the gauges and use the sender's and such that come with it or did you have to use any of the specialty adapters that ive vaguely seen mentioned around?
  4. Was getting ready to order some gauges for the swap. I am going to be redoing the dash with all 5 autometers. Been reading about which gauges to get and see people mentioning adapters and such. figured someone here has done it and know whats up. my setup will be 5" electric speedo 5" electric tach 2 5/8 electric water temp adapter# 2277 this leaves the stock on the driver front and then uses the autometer at the pass rear head hole location. Can you just tie into the stock sensor that goes to the ecm or tap into the ecm directly and bypass all this? autometer says for 2277 above you need a different sender 2259. any reality to this? really debating on the other 2 holes oil pressure - thought these were really expensive to keep things out of the cabin. guess not 65 bucks. Guess i'll have to go with this then! oil temp - with water temp is it really needed? oil press seems more valuable volts - sorta useless clock - completely useless fuel level - would be a nice gauge, which ohm range for 240z sender? what have some of you done? need anything special? any pics would be great as well
  5. On those removal of the rear 02 sensors. I am cleaning up the harness alot of the unused plugs/wires that are left after. Can I just remove the wires associated with the rear 02's up to the ecu? thanks
  6. I went with the c5 fpr setup. so clean and 1 easy hose to run to the front and a clamp on the single inlet rail. so easy!!! Looks clean. Reason behind this for me was to spend little money up front to get the car driving asap and to keep issues from arrising and causing time to fly by. This happened to a buddy we both know (duderino on sva) where he gets caught up in so many details and trying to do this whole big deal always that its been 3 years and still doesnt have a car running. Meanwhile if ya swap the ♥♥♥♥ asap get it simple and done your actually driving around faster and then down the road if ya want some bling factor then its a simple day project. Or if you plan to do some upgrades like a cam or something and need more fuel or maybe a fast intake ya swap it all at the same time. Now that I finally dove in and saw what i actually did and what it takes to put an ellis juan into ANYTHING I feel confortable and its almost funny how easy it really is. Go cheap get it running asap and save that 250 bucks for something down the road that does something other then look good!
  7. Well finally after a lot of slacking on my swap the car has finally fired and actually got to drive it around for 10 minutes yesterday to check for leaks, make sure everything is working fine ect. YESSSSSSSS!!!! Can't wait to get the lil things buttoned up for reliable driving. Anyways, I tried looking around for exhaust stuff here but didnt find too much info. Figured maybe we can get a thread with everything we need to know. Couple questions came to mind before going and getting the exhaust done. 1. How far after the headers did you mount the 02 sensors? 2. Did you even use the rear 02's? do you need them? Can i just unplug or do i need the simulators instead? 3. what size diameter are you using? 4. What material? Don't know if I wanna go all the way with stainless yet 5. Running an X pipe or Y? If so what sizing and configuration? 6. Duals or single outlet? 7. Mufflers - what fits in the stock location? what are you running? happy with the tone/noise levels? If you have any pics that would be sweeeeettt and a vid of the sounds would be even better. Personally I was thinking 2.5" into a Y then id like 3.5" from there back but might be restricted to 3" for clearance. Would like a straight through muffler in the stock location to keep things sorta stealthy but I have a feeling it might be a little loud to sound stock of course. Thanks Guys
  8. mine looks identical to that. has the 1 slot there that doesnt have a spline on the bottom in that pic. couldnt see that opposite notch on the trans splines. my yoke just taps the indent from above causing it not to slide in as noted in the other posts.. I just got motivated to finally start wrenching. doing the fuel deal now as well
  9. since you have a 240 i was curious if you had the same issue as mine. with the trans fully bolted up i cant get the driveshaft at the engle needed to slip it into the trans as the yoke there hits the underside of the change cubby hole thing that protrudes into the tunnel.??
  10. I just got done dealing with mine today. Mines jci kit with ls1. I went with the BMR bracket as I wont be running anything but the alternator. Short belt since going to the mezeire electric waterpump. http://www.bmrfabrication.com/misc.HTM its on that page. 130 bucks.. i noticed today playing with it that the back of my camaro alternator there is a black plastic cover deal which i had to chop a bit on the back off.. it now fits but that was after I took out the what im guessing is the ground stub off. Just wouldnt clear the engine mount area. was going to take the stub out and use a bolt in its place to shorten it down.. Ill try and get some pics but seems as it will fit but need to keep an eye on it with engine vibration it doesnt contact.
  11. Figured I would ask this here instead of starting another about same driveshaft.. Have any of you had any issues with putting the driveshaft in while trans mount was tightened down? looks like on mine 71 240z the little change cubby on the top of the trans tunnel indents down far enough to hit the u joint preventing it to be angled enough to slide in.. I dont think the 260 or 280 have this? so looks like ill need to loosen the trans mount and lower it down to get it in there.. p.s. what size bolts are the driveshaft to diff bolts? ?
  12. wish i would of bought this over the cheap looking jtr setup.grrrrrrrrrrr
  13. Just what i am looking for. So the gsl392 is the pump ill order up~! Is there anything special to do with the tank like sump? I am going to not use any gauges right now as a speedo isnt needed and a tach isnt that important for now but eventually I think I will be going with a full set of autometer's to replace the stockers. I will order the driveshaft from jci as there is a few missing bolts/spacers in the kit i got. The trans i bought came with a spec 3 clutch setup and a stock ls7 setup as well both have low miles so should be good there! Thanks for the help. I can't wait to get this going. I originally bought the ls1 no trans for a porsche 914 but after realizing a open diff mid engine car with a glass tranny the driving enjoyment for myself wasnt like my style(i like the sideways thing)
  14. I bet 90% of the people would swap to a great long tube setup. I know I would. Hopefully with this chassid you wouldnt have to relift the motor out just to do a longtube swap.. Keep that in mind about being able to get them in and on without the motor coming out unless that is just a MUST DO for the setup and i'd prolly still switch.
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