Maverick101

*edit* stupid iPad double posted.

I use a mix between a propane torch and putty knife, a wire wheel brush, and that weird reciprocating tool thats like the thing they use to cut open casts for broken bones ( forgot the name). The propane torch worked the best as it literally just burned the stuff off and I like poluting.

So i started the battle against rust this summer in order to get my car ready for a new paint job. I'm basically removing the undercoat that's currently on the car (a rubber/tar like undercoat) because it was just painted over rust and other body damage. So enough talk....time for pics.

I wonder if we can all agree that FWD cars will never dominate in any drifting event

I have stuff written up for gas welding. Other than temp / flame control it's pretty similar...hope it helps

http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/myna-diesel-pump-for-sale-t-1093.html i think myna-diesel is the finland based company that mods them? http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/ip-full-load-adjustment-procedure-for-mw-pumps-t-189.html and based on this it can be found on the OM602/3 Americans since it only lists the OM61x (i.e. OM617) being on the "european" models... I'll keep looking for more info. I would really love to see what makes these things tick. Edit: JACKPOT! http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=pZMMSqp3uSZdyqyAJ0XqRCA list of all the bosch pumps for all the cars and it's serial number...woot

how complex are the pistons inside the IP? we have a 3-axis Fadal here at school, and a handful of CNC lathes. I know calibrating the pump is where the difficulty comes in, but if i can grab a handful of IP's from a junkyard i can always try trial and error of modding it myself. I know these things are like clock work but im a bit hesitant to fork over more than a grand over to Finland for an IP.

why not an OM617? you lose a cylinder and about 40 horses but you can make it do this.... ... if im not mistaken If i remember correctly it has a modified IP and a holset turbo from a cummings TD

What fuel delivery system are you using? I would imagine that most of the MPG lost might be nothing more then a case of lead foot due to the increase in power. I would leave the car to whatever setting makes the car run best by ear unless the car is a daily driver. Just my 2 pennies without knowing what you truly have under the hood.

Final Update:

Another update: So here's the deal, I replaced the points and condensor with a remarkable improvement. However, after the engine idles, or i put any real work load on it, it starts to die again. After spending a couple hours surfing the web (while waiting for autocad class to start) i found,completely by chance, that i have a little silver component that is not hooked up to anything in my car, the ballast resistor. I didnt know what it was when i saw it just sitting there on the wheel-well so it never struck me as something important to dive head first into but now when i return home i'll be trying to hook it up properly to see if it fixes my runability issue. In retrospect, i remember seeing the steel arm holding the old point's surface had a color change (blue like when you anneal metal or harden it) and the surface extremely pitted. My theory and i havent had a chance to test it yet, is that my car has been frying points because the ballast resistor is not properly hooked up.

here's an update: so i gapped the points and the "hot" ignition coil went away but i have the same run-ability issues. Turns out while i was letting it idle on choke, the back carburetors (closest to the firewall) was leaking gas out of the float bowl. Does this mean the float isnt stopping the flow of gas and it's flooding the corresponding 3 cylinders? i was looking in the manual and i didnt see any mention to an overflow bleed off that would indicate the float bowl is over filling. I should mention that i used a vise grip to pinch the fuel line to that specific float bowl and after about 45 seconds it started running smoother. One last question, to set the float's level am i going to have to take the entire carb assembly off or do they come off by themselves?

this is for a 1973 240z bone stock So here's the issue... Supposedly the cars entire drive train was rebuilt but when i start the car i get a rough idle without choke and dies with acceleration and it runs smooth with choke but a hi idle and it will accelerate but dies before any work gets done. I found a couple of vacuum leaks so far and fixed them with some good results but ultimately the engine still exudes the same symptoms. Also in order for the engine to run at all the distributor has to be moved all the way counter-clockwise (im guessing advanced) in order to even start and run. ALSO the ignition coil gets hot....not like "haha that tickles its warm", i mean this sucker is hot. I have not checked the points nor the bowl levels on the carburetors. I'm mostly posting this to get a collection of ideas to form a checklist for the weekend when i start to really dive into the engine bay. Thanks in advance everyone.