ol doc gully

Would love to enlist this help. I sent him a PM on here, but not sure he comes around often. Does anyone have an email they think would be OK to use to make contact?

Cutting out the whole thing adds a lot of complication (up high on the other side of the firewall, etc), this is not a bare chassis restoration. However, that is a much better deal on a bead roller than I would have expected, may be worth getting regardless... I'm curious if the panel will start to bow or anything by increasing the width but I think that is workable, I may go this way. Thank you both for your input.

I am repairing rust under battery tray. Going to do the firewall piece first but can't figure out what the best way is to get a piece to match with the stamped / bead roll shape? If you look at the picture of the area you can see the line of approx where I need to cut to replace rusted bits (approx, will keep grinding to confirm). I definitely do not want or need to cut up high enough to be above all of the stamped shapes, so regardless of exactly where I cut I need to figure out how to fit these shapes. The drawing is my best stab at how I might go about fitting a piece to match those shapes; basically leave some tabs that I can bend over and weld to the recessed portion. But its not going to look very good because in multiple areas (ie, sides and bottom) it will have to line back up with the recessed part of the firewall. Or I could try to hammer those areas flat where they meet the panel I am welding in, but that seems even less desirable. What has anybody else done?? EDIT: Thinking about it more now after re-reading this posting; strength-wise, I think having something that is completely in plane with the recessed portions is likely the preferred solution.... EDIT EDIT: I suppose I could do the reverse of what I have drawn; weld to the recessed panel and leave tabs to be bent back *out* to fill in gaps at bottom of the stamped shapes. But that seems... difficult

I'll take the COOLANT CROSSOVER TUBE if it is what I think it is - sent you a PM. Thanks.

I would think it’d be really tough to be that precise, with such small offsets, enough that may be worth it to just use two flanges and some straight pipe, maybe with a lil pie cutting?

Would you mind posting some examples? 225/60-15 is (to me) the perfect size tire for the Z, but all I can find are crappy all-seasons (or hoosier bias ply), just want to make sure I’m not missing anything. 235/50 R888R is a bit of a compromise bit that is a wiiiiiiiiiiiide tire. 225/50 R888R is my leading choice now.

sounds good, will be interested to see it come together. The good thing about the ZX12R throttles is they have the same spacing as the DCOEs (90mm) so I’ll just have to space out each pair; there’s definitely trade offs with any of em though.

stumbled across your other thread, im actually slowly putting together a setup with ZX12R ITBs. have the manifold and one set of ITBs, going to start the spacing and mounting shortly and order the second set, no rush though as I am overseas and my car is in a barn so its just a fun basement tinker project. have any pics of the triumph ITBs you are using? one thing i havent seen you discuss, with regard to fuel setup, is that youll want some baffling or, as i'm doing, a surge tank (or fuel cell)

pretty great walkthrough for compressor size calculations from Garrett: https://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/choosing_turbo

ive been surprised at how much abuse mine has taken but thats incredible. how long might it have been running without coolant? it was completely empty? its also the main reason i will stick with the L series - worry free vintage lapping.

been a while but came across some more pics from mid-ohio i realized i never posted on here

the main/easy correlation is with length - short runners for high rpm performance, long runners for low rpm performance. this has to do with benefits from tuning for pressure waves as much as actual flow. diameter has to do with velocity and so is more of a dependent variable based on other design factors. i like the idea of this manifold for a mild/street turbo application though. long runners for good low rpm response and boost for high rpm. i think the runners are still a bit long for that though, so i think you're idea of welding a plenum to the lower section is great. but whats teh point of any of this if the flange doesnt fit? i agree but a few pesky clarifications aftermarket manifolds are entirely built for high boost/high rpm - thats why they look like they do. doesnt mean they should be used as a guide for intake manifold design and doesnt mean they are right for everyone. for instance, factory RB manifolds look a lot like the diesel manifold being criticised here (pictures below) also i entirely agree that the injector placement in the proposed manifold is... far from ideal. seems to be a convenience factor based on where the original flange was. but FYI the common practice of injector placement at the head is actually primarily to help with emissions (esp cold start) but the goal is just getting a well homogenized/atomized mixture in the chamber and there are other alternatives.

i know this is an old thread but as a person looking into these kinds of setups i havent found a more concentrated source of useful information so i think it deserves a bump i've been specifically researching the holley terminator EFI to replace the holley 390 on my clifford for a turbo setup -- SuperDan, did you ever go turbo? very glad to hear the terminator CFM isnt too high, was worried about the same. i also definitley would not have thought of the heat shield being so necessary. anybody else using any of these 4bbl TBI setups in a turbo application? also curious how well the Holley HP software can be setup to deal with boost - will be my first time tuning an engine but that kind of work is close to my profession so im excited to learn also as was said earlier im tempted by the potentially short/direct path from turbo to intake.. although i have low boost aspirations im still hesitant to try it without an intercooler (even though blow through guys do it all the time).. any thoughts on air-to-water intercooler setups?

Haha OK.. let me know if you don't end up using it.

hmm PM me how much... i come to Rochester often for work but thats still not too close to you so we'd probably have to ship