The Turbo Possibilities on this setup with even a short stroke L28 crank and a cleaned up bore for true-round will be something. GT42 is a very small starting point with no intake over it, top mount twins is a distinct possibility for some real big flow.
Stock these ports flow near 300 cfm... at 8psi calculate your pounds-per hour and you will get an idea of power potential, and having turbos that spool at 3500 and go go go to 9000+ is one hell of a power band...
A non-rolling "Condition 7" PARTS CAR is now valued at $2,500 with a clapped out engine and in need of total mechanical repair.
Don't invest too much credence on what idiots on FB say, they are clueless. Especially in the US Market where it's inhabited by inveterate bottom-feeders and cheapskates.
That being said, who really cares what anybody else thinks YOU should have paid for YOUR car. Many are just jealous that people who have some money can spend it... they're simply too cheap or not in a position to buy at the market price and therefore snipe.
I personally passed on a 1971 Z432 in 1985 for $3,200 because I could buy a nice late-model S30 for $2400 off a lot with two year JCI inspection. Everybody (the local 'experts') there told me the "old car" was nothing but problems because it was a one-year inspection, blah blah blah...
Let me see, a 1975 Fairlady Z is worth what now?
A 1971 Z432 is worth what now?
I should have told the "Experts" to FOAD and bought the car like I wanted to do and not let others influence my purchase!
Yep, bastards broke in through the kitchen window, tore out the door casings to get entry into each bedroom, bathroom, and closet.
Once into a room, totally trashed it going through everything to grab small high value items like DSLRs and Guns which they got after extensive and noisy work entering a concealed gun locker.
On first inventory, not including the structural damage to the 7 interior doors, the loss is now a running total of $15,000 +
Must be nice to work one night and rip off someone's lifetime of saving...
They poked around The Hoard as well. Asking a bud to go and install lock boxes on the containers ASAP so they can't break into them and get the Datsun junk...
Singapore Canes Thieves. America needs to Cane Thieves similarly. Strokes applied in onsey-twosies until they heal, then another couple of whacks.... Keeps you repenting your crime a bit longer.
Yes, the exhaust port 'could' use some work, the as-cast cleaned intake is flowing within 10cfm of a 4 hour port job on an OS Giken head.
Those numbers outflow most max ported SOHC heads by a good margin. Most you will likely get is around 230cfm intake, possibly more.
The important thing is that the barrel tested was 89mm, and not something like 4", which would skew the low-lift numbers artificially low, and boost top end numbers by potentially 40-50cfm!
Overall, this is very good port performance and about as big as you really can go on the intake side with a 2.8 or 3.0 Liter engine. The peak power will be up there...in terms of gross output, and rpms!
You won't get these numbers out of a non-crossflow head.
And I don't see any reason to get uncivil since the 28", bore size, clayed radius, exhaust stub stuff is all stated for replication.
More importantly, it gives a baseline for improvements from any porting done.
I would only add that it would have been nice to quantify intake manifold loss, and what the intake port flowed with the intended ITB on it at WOT.
On Peter's OSG project, that added up.
One thing to note for all the benchracers out there, that turbo stock intake flows 190 CFM thereabouts. So for a P90 that's a darned good match of components! The engineers DO know what they are doing sometimes. Thinking you will change the world swapping from one component to another is really misguided, it's a system--if you don't look at ALL the components, changing one will likely just screw up a well-balanced setup right from the factory!
The more I researched about Datsun 240Zs the more I heard about Hybridz.org so I thought I give it a try and see if this community can help me select the right parts for the 240Z project I am hoping to start. I will not drag race with this 240z. It will be a street car but would like some power.
Why? I would seriously consider getting the car running properly and handling first. Spend some time at Grattan getting suspension dialed in and learning to drive the car. Really, the last thing a 240Z needs is significantly more power.
I will be swapping the original motor for a 82 turbo motor with a F54 block and a P90 head.
That will make it a 12 or 13 second 1/4 mile car. And EXTREMELY unbalanced with a stock suspension.
Thank you all very much in advance. Here are my questions.
What differential would best fit a daily car with some performance with a 82' 280zx turbo motor? please explain why as I am not too fimilar with datsuns. I have just recently fallen in love with them.
What is your intended use for the car? I have a 3.70 R200 ATB differential in my 1973 Turbo 240Z. With the transmission I have, that gives me 65 mph around 6,500 rpms at the top of second gear. The top of second gear arrives in well less than 5 seconds. Some like a 3.54, others keep the 3.36. I think the 3.36 is far to deep a gear to have personally as at 50mph with a late ZX five speed in fifth you are all of 2,000 rpms and really lugging the engine below boost threshold. A 3.54 will be better for roll-on to top speed like lazily coming down an on ramp. With the 3.70 going down most standard freeway on-ramps will put me easily into triple digits shifting into 4th gear at 105mph and accelerating through to my opening in the fast lane...
Since I will be swapping the motor what others parts I would have to change in order for the car to function perfectly. For example: wiring and etc.
As above, read, read, and read some more. Don't buy just the engine. See it run in the car beforehand if possible. NOTHING SUCKS MORE than trying to troubleshoot an issue on a swap going "well, I never heard it run, so is it the engine or my swap?" If you hear it run and know what it does before you pull it for donation into the S30, then you can say "I know it ran fine in the other car, so it HAS to be something I did" and it VASTLY narrows down what you have to look at to solve the issue.
What are the most populer and good datsun 240z suspension swaps?
As in changing individual things? Or changing entire suspensions? Poly bushings are almost mandatory if they aren't already on the car. Really, you need to specify what your use of the car will be to determine which suspension direction you should go. For my Wife's car, I poly bushed everything when I got it, before she ever got in. A whole $70 at the time. Stock Springs, Stock Struts, Stock Stock Stock...it's a wallowing pig at the autocross, but runs within 5 seconds of the fastest S30 regularly. People can't believe how really WELL the stock Z Suspension is...it's a well designed SYSTEM and you need to look at the whole to determine the parts. Changing one thing will affect everything else. You will find that you end up changing groups of things... I concur with the above where they said get it running right, and drive it THEN determine which direction you want to go. I put Tokiko Adjustables on my 2+2 and set them on '3' for my Wife's sake. Did an AutoX one weekend, and forgot to set them back.... a few months later went out to change them to '5' and realized "Hey, this isn't as bad as everybody made it out to be!" A lot of this is 'butt dyno' subjective stuff. As a fat dude my feeling on stiff shocks and high spring rates will be CONSIDERABLY different than someone who weighs 132# and has a 110# girlfriend riding in the car. For me 275# Springs and the shocks on '5' are 'a nice Sunday Driving setup' when Mrs(ex) Hutt is along for the ride, but for the Emaciated Set...that would be like an Oklahoma Buckboard going over 4X4's at speed!
Any brake suggestions? I am planning on changing the drum brakes in the rear...any recommendations?
Why? In a word: Don't. Adjust them properly, run good friction material, and most importantly run GOOD BRAKE FLUID, something like Motul RBF650, the issues become the cheap pads going away, or old fluid with lots of water in it boiling and causing poor braking (after the obligatory forgetting to set the rear brakes properly!) My stock brakes can stop the car repeatedly from 100mph in quick succession and put me up on my belts, and even lock the tires... The stock brakes are extremely competent for 95% of the driving out there. If you aren't tracking the car, or running track sessions exceeding 30-45 minutes...save your money.
Basically my main concern is picking the best parts I can afford and find for a 240z I plan on getting.
THERE IS NO "BEST"!
Best for a street use with some performance.
THERE IS NO "BEST"!
Best differential, best brake system, best suspension.
THERE IS NO "BEST"!
THERE IS NO "BEST"!
THERE IS NO "BEST"!
I will admit I dont know much about swapping motors and parts of the cars but I do love these cars. I am learning. Excuse me if I mix things up.
Get to reading, and learning, and realize just because you think it needs to be changed, doesn't necessarily mean YOU have the skills requisite to require that change be implemented. Meaning, unless you're driving better than John Morton, consider spending money on improving YOU before you start doing anything other than getting a good running, stock car. As I said above, my car is running most AutoX's with the same driver within 5 seconds as the fastest S30 out there. Is $30,000 worth 5 seconds to you if you aren't going to be tracking the car regularly? If not, spend the money on you and leave the car alone until the skills requisite to need more of whatever is really due.
You're probably going to convert several decent-to-good engines in to many boxes of parts, none of which give you anything more than that completely assembled engine you consider.
This really is not worth the effort, there is no 'magic bullet'.... Look at the raise in potential performance of the CR change... something like 0.2% per compression point or something like that.... The N42 flows MARGINALLY WORSE than the P90, offsetting any perceived gains. You are trying to out think engineers that has millions in their budget to get the most power under the curve.
Unless you want to spend money, you aren't getting anything earth-shattering. In fact, you likely just end up with a list of parts to keep straight later on because everything is mismatched. I took an engine out of a 1980 280ZX 2+2...225,000 miles on it. Put it in my stock 76 2+2 with stock EFI on it, and then ran around 145 to the rear wheels on the dyno with the stock manifolds and a crush-bent partially collapsed, QUIET exhaust system (quieter than stock, in fact!)
I've run consistent 15.50's @ around 90mph all day long at the drag strip, and get 22-27mpg towing a small trailer. I've taken it across the country 2X over 32,000 miles (16,000 miles each trip, when I say 'around' I mean 'AROUND' the USA!) It starts like a stock car, runs quiet like a stock car, and gets me sworn at by guys that have all sorts of go-fast goodies still basically stock and a lot of effort put into it...but not much else.
Sell the parts to people with a like mind who think they can change the world with a conglomeration of magic bullets, and take that money to put it into proper tune up of the stock engine you get. You have not mentioned once your induction choice...which, on a stock intake really limits what you will do N/A, period.
You have an 83ZX Flat-Top long block....meaning a head that flows maybe 190cfm at 450-500"?, and an intake that maybe flows 190cfm.
You cam it to optimise power, and the stock EFI won't like it.
The power is not where you think it is. The parts are all the same. It's how you tune them to work as a proper package that makes power.
Just to draw some parallels with what JC said above... if you think of a car properly geared for 7,000~8,000 rpms is going around 140mph at that speed in top gear...
That's around 20,000 miles at 140 mph without breakage.
You build a race motor, your life is measured in hours.
Get your head off the street and street thinking trying to apply it to racing engines.
It's a different animal. What you do to a race engine to make it live makes a street engine bulletproof. The legend in JDM is that once you build an L30, it will outlive through the six next owners rides...and if you saw how they drive these cars in Japan that's saying something.
As for people 'defending' someone....it was more telling loudmouths to shut the hell up if they weren't going to positively contribute to the design or project. I think if you read the thread entirely...the words there hardly "defend" anything. IF anything, they tell a very cautionary tale. Legally. Caveat Emptor. You don't do your research it's your own fault...ESPECIALLY when the record is out there and easily found.
Incidentally, one of the primary reasons the Datsunworks head progressed to where it was is PRECISELY because we involved parties DID NOT say anything about it online.
We didn't need the wannabe 'experts' sitting in the trees, eating bananas, scratching themselves and randomly screeching and flinging their shyt upon us in our efforts. Which is what a lot of this was in the beginning: Internet Benchracing.
It's always easy to tear down someone's work. Not so easy to do it yourself.
Now, if a SINGLE detractor had actually BUILT a similar manifold, and was contesting design, etc...and not just talking out their collective asses, that may have been one thing. But there wasn't anybody doing that.