ZeeNoEvil

Used this to cover up my unused switch holes. 14 ga. stainless, polished, taped off with 1/4 wide tape then sand blasted. Made a paper template first.

"The hardness of the stainless steel wouldn't conform well and, like I mentioned, would most likely result in a leak." You could buy a -6AN steel fitting (any store selling hydraulic supplies) and use it to seat or conform the stainless line to then swap out the steel fitting for your aluminum hose ends.

1977

Thanks all for your kind words. I would love to make a couple dozen of these if only I had a lathe, It's way to time consuming and awkward to turn parts with a mill. I think there might be a market for this if someone was set up to do it. Wasn't someone on here making small billet aluminum parts a while back? Maybe they would be better set up to do this. Ideas are free and sharing them is the right thing to do. It what makes this site what it is. I also made some door lock knobs from scrap TV tower reinforcement rods.

My Daughter hated the looks of the stock steering wheel. After searching for a new one, they were either too expensive, too small, or "I don't like that one". I decided to make the original look better. Basically it was the couch pillow horn button and the rather bland looking spokes that I attempted to do something about. Every thing was made with the use of a Bridgeport mill (can only wish I had a lathe). I kept the "Z" logo from the original horn button.

Martin Senour Tec Line Northern Lights Sunset.

Home made aluminum in my daughter's 77 280Z.

I've used these type lights several times as front turn/park lights but without the rubber grommets. I found a place that sells chrome or stainless bezels that cover up the grommets and I think would make it look much cleaner although I have never purchased from them. http://www.empirechromeshop.com/c-67-light-accessories.aspx?pagenum=2

Try hiding it in plain site, disguise it as a speaker box.

Cheapest place I have found on-line for copper/nickel brake line is tooltopia.com. They have a better price then even the Napa dealer can get it for, as well as brake tools. Line is cheap compared to the labor, take your time stay focused and $100 worth of material can easily be a $600 to $1,000 finished product. Well worth the effort, do it right and you'll wish they were on the outside of the car for everyone to see.

I've always put carpet over it myself. Have seen a lot of abused pickup beds that hold up just fine. You can scuff it and scratch it but I've never seen it wear out, takes a week to fully cure, but you could walk on it the next day. We did a 67 TR4A last year and I climbed in and out of it countless time doing the wiring and it never hurt it any. Lot's of pictures at http://www.facebook....to/174180992411

Do not use ketone, this is the wrong stuff. Xylene is what you want to use. My mistake and my apologies for not double checking. I will try to edit my previous post.

The stuff we use is SEM Rock-It tintable bedliner. It can also be purchased in black and in a kit with a free gun. http://sem.ws/Catalog.asp?prod=315A automotive paint suppy should be able to tint this to any car color if you don't want black. Ketone xylene is a solvent that works for us although it is not stated in the instructions, (Do not use thinners or reducers!) Mask off any mounting surfaces that may effect alignment of parts and remove masking before final cure or you may not get it off. They also make a tape with a wire in it but I have never used it.

Works very well full strength underneath. On the interior we dilute it with ketone xylene so it lays flat and is thinner. Horrible stuff to try and take off for repairs though.