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V8240Z

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About V8240Z

  • Birthday 02/22/1964

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    Foxboro, MA

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  1. looking for early 260Z driver side bumper filler. Hard rubber between bumper and fender
  2. Hi, Check this link. This is what I found on ebay and the seller told me this is what I need for my conversion. All I need to do is re-program my LT1 PCM and set it up to run on a 4 pulse per revolution input. What do you think? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360153915064&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:MOTORS:1123
  3. Hi fellow Z, I am almost done collected parts for my LT1/WC T5 swap. I even ordered a portable welding table to build my own exhaust. I took a welding class years ago and I finally going to put it into use. I called JTR regarding the VSS for my 87 WCT5 and someone told me to find the drive gear, so he can sell me the proper set. When I called back with my drive gear which is purple (7 tooth gear), they told me they can't help me because I need a reluctor ring to have both VSS for the PCM and cable for my stock. Speedometer. My tranny only has the output for the cable speedometer. I called Cable-X and I spoke to two different women: one had no clue of what I needed and the other one told me that I need to send my Tail housing and my Speedo cable in other for them to fabricate something for me. Actually I have a Scarab setup with a different cross member and a motor mount totally different from the one JTR recommended. Since the motor mounts have groove to slide it back and forth from the different crossmember; I think I'll be able to put the JTR Set-Back-Plate between the Motor and the mount. I still have work to do in the Z before I can do the swap, but I would like to get all my parts ready and also keep my OEM gauges. I also have a rebuilt 4L60E, but I always prefer manual tranny. I know Wheelman did his own VSS setup, 80LT1 may have different Speedo gauge and maybe others have VSS that work with the Datsun gauge. If anyone can lead me to the right direction, I will appreciate it. I have lots of document from different sites, but can't find the proper adapter setup to use the T5 mechanical output and a VSS. Thanks again in advance
  4. I thought about the compression test, not only I forgot my compression kit, it was a cold day after the ice storm in New England and the car is seating in a lot so close to the other cars; the owner had to use a broken back window to start it. I would like to get the tranny also to make things simple in term of wiring, but I already bought a WC T5 with all the components for the setup. I may pickup the motor this Saturday. Two weeks ago, I found a 94 Roadmaster with 145000 miles for $450 with a bad tranny, but the owner wants me to pay $200 to his mechanic to remove the motor. I could have taken the whole car, but I don't have space in my driveway for it. Gvincent: I thought about giving you a call since I think Greg Vincent who lives next town from me might be you. Do you have parts for sale in bostongraiglist? I live in Mansfield, MA. It will be great to have a Z guy living next town. Thanks for the advice. I think I'll buy it since majority of you think it's a good deal.
  5. I found a Chevy Impala 1995 LT-1 former Police car with 165000 miles for $500. I can get the tranny for an additional $200. I am undecided about the tranny since I already have a WC T-5. The car starts and idle smooth with good throttle response, but I did not drive it. The owner told me the tranny is also in good condition, I can take anything I need from the car. Do you think it's a fair deal due to the high mileage? Computer, harness and fuel pump are also included. He will remove the motor, but I have to part everything else that I need. Can someone tell me how long the LT-1 can go before a rebuild? Thanks,
  6. Thanks for the advise and the pictures. As I can see, in the Scarab position, the engine is not place in the same position. One of the picture shows the distributor is like 5 1/4' away from the firewall while mine is 6' away. The previous owner who is a mechanic told me that the car handle very well while it was running. Maybe the heavy duty square tubing in the rear really help with the weight distribution. I'll give him a call to see if handling was not an issue at all. I haven't have a chance to drive it yet after the engine swap because of the tranny issue and it's not registered yet. the rear has 245/60/14 and the front has 195/60/14. I think I am going to play with the TH350 tranny or get it repair to see if I can get it on the road. After that, I'll decide about moving the engine to JTR position. I really don't want to spend the money fixing the automatic tranny and change to manual later.
  7. My first post. I recently bought my first V8Z and I am having lots of confusion with the engine position. One thing I know; it's not the JTR position after reading so many threads and buying the JTR manual. This is my fifth Z car and I currently have a 71 240Z with a 280ZX and triple carbs. Lets get back to the questions: The distributor is 6 inches away from the firewall and have enough clearance to use the stock hood latch mechanism and also use a full size air filter. The car has a heavy custom frame made of square tubing and an x that is welded across the frame for rigidity. The frame is well constructed, it will add weight to the rear to help with weight distribution. Because of the welded x frame, I may have a hard time putting a straight exhaust system if I decide to replace the side pipes. The car came with bad engine but movable and a TH350 tranny. I already swap the motor with a 71 chevy Impala. After the swap, it seems like I did some damage to my tranny and it get stuck on drive, but I am able to start the car which definitely tell me there is a safety switch issue also. I can move the car forward by pressing hard on the gas pedal and I can push it back when I turn the ignition off while still on D. My plan is to swap the TH350 for a WCT5 which I already bought. Before I start spending more money, I would like to know if the position of the motor will make it impossible to use the T5 since the JTR manual says: with the Scarab position the T5 shifter will be in the fusebox hole. I read other threads that say the T5 is a couple inches longer than the TH350. If the T5 is longer than the TH350, I think it should fit except if the tailstock and the bellhousing of the T5 are shorter than the TH350. As I mention before, I have a T5 and bellhousing from an 87 Camaro. Thanks in advance for you help.
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