jerzee

that's where it is...

oh yeah, on the intake/exhaust side of block

I can't figure out how to attach the photo but it's a horizontal crack that runs between the #2 and #3 cylinders about 1/2 inch below head. I'm guessing the head was torqued too much?

Long story short... Looking for opinions on what to do with a P30 engine that was recently rebuilt but discovered to have a cracked block. I am replacing the engine with F54 from '83zx with SU's. Before I trash the whole 240 engine i was wondering if there was any reason to keep or use any internals from the P30 block or E88 head? The PO said it had new pistons/rods and the head was rebuilt. Don't want to throw something away that I could use down the road but also don't want to store an entire engine in my garage.

Does anyone know real quickly if I can replace an intake on 77z with one from 81zx. The look the same but with all the spaghetti I can't tell. With that in mind can I use the same injectors from the 81? Everything is stock. I have searched but didn't find anything with my question.

I've attached a pic of how I now have the timing chain set up. Can anyone tell me if this is correct and what else I need to check before I reinstall the cover. Also what's the best way to install the oil pump/distributor gear to make sure it's in the right position. thanks,

I checked the cam sprocket dowel and the dowel is in the #1 hole and the bright link is on the #3 timing mark. Let's say the bright link is correct on the crank. What adjustments do I need to make from there?

Yeah BRAPP, that link is definitely "nitty gritty" and then some. Maybe save that for a cold winter day! I will start by checking out the crank gear and see if the other bright link on the timing chain is where it's suppose to be. So to make sure I've got it right... if my bright link is on #3 mark on cam sprocket and the bright link on the crank sprocket is correct then does that only leave the corresponding dowel as suspect?

Thanks for the help... don't go to that much trouble... yet anyway! I'm going to take the timing cover off and investigate from scratch and see where I am. I'll report my findings. Thanks

any advice on why there's no timing mark on the plate and no notches on the sprocket?

I started a thread a couple of days ago with not much response so I'm attempting to start over. Here's the original thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1037081#post1037081 Basically troubleshooting a 73 z I purchase a while back but just getting around to getting it running. The PO said it was a recent rebuild, the SU's were off the car in a box. He said they were having trouble tuning the carbs and basically it got put on the shelf. My thought is something else was the problem after the rebuild and after messing with the carbs to no avail they gave up. I have put on a decently tuned pair of SU's just because I knew what I had and began from there. If you take a look at the previous thread mentioned you will see what my issues are. Instead of posting new images please look at the images posted on the last thread from above. After getting the advice to check cam timing I began the process and hopefully the pics will tell in more detail than I can explain. Basically I began to search for the grooves on the cam sprocket and their relation to the timing notch on the plate behind the sprocket. The issue is there are no notches on the sprocket (I've looked at a sprocket from another 240 to see what I was looking for and there's nothing like the v notches that where on the sprocket I referenced) the pics I posted on the thread earlier shows what I'm talking about. I can't find the timing notch on the plate either. I'm trying to determine what is going on with this PO rebuild. Don't know if it's aftermarket etc. The bright link on the timing chain is at the #3 mark on the sprocket if that helps at all. It's obvious I could use all the help I can get.... thanks

thanks for your suggestions I only hope you can continue to help me out here. My first attempt was to check the cam timing since it was about the only thing at this point I had not checked. I have never done this before but thought it would be a good learning experience. I removed the valve cover and the pics attached show what I found. I used the manual to guide me as of what to look for?? I started off looking for the engraved notch on the locating plate. I could not find a notch. I continued on to locate some other reference to cam timing and searched for the notches on the timing chain sprocket... nothing. I found an old timing chain sprocket off an old engine as a reference. I saw the notch on the locating plate as well as the notches on the sprocket. But the one I have has neither one? So I'm at a loss at this point as to where to go next? I've attached photos of the head in question and I threw in a pic of the old one that shows the notch for someone else to reference.

I've posted a video to show my current situation. I need help to determine what is causing this problem please!!! You may not be able to see the flame on the video (it's @ :59 sec) but some frames get compressed out so I've attached a pic for better reference. Now here's the background. I purchased a 73' 240z, the PO had the L24 recently rebuilt. The su's where not on the car when I got it, they were in a box. I first pulled the engine and replaced the automatic trans with a manual 4spd. I reconfigured the wiring to bypass the auto trans relays etc. I put a pair of su's that I had from another z on the car because I knew they were tuned enough to get it running. I also used my single point dizzy from my 72' because I knew that it worked. After troubleshooting and trying to get the car to run I discovered that the distributor shaft was 180 degrees off and had to loosen the oil pump to reset the gear on the oil pump shaft to get the dizzy rotor at plug #1 @ TDC etc. (TDC = compression stroke of #1 cylinder + cam lobes at 10 & 2 o'clock + dizzy rotor at #1). I need some help on determining what is wrong with this thing... I don't know if there are valve issues from the PO's rebuild or if it's something simple like vaccum etc. Please help before I catch the something on fire!

I have the Zedd Findings floor pans for my 240 and have cut out the driver side floor with exception of the front seat bracket. My thought was to install the new pans without cutting out the original front seat support bracket, thus installing around the existing front seat frame. Has anyone attempted this without removing it? Just thinking for realignment purposes and also the original bracket doesn't appear that it would be easy to remove. see pic: