optimusprime8

Yes thank you mtnickel, this is exactly the kind of info I was looking for.

I was thinking for $60 it might be worth a try, the Nistune software has a trial period too, so you could see if it worked before paying. @newzed, type nistune in Ebay, there are only like six links, half from Poland.

Has anyone purchased and used one of these Nistune daughter boards on ebay? They seem too cheap to be real.

I'm just concerned that the stub on one side has too much play and sticks out farther than the other side. JohnC, you're thinking this is normal and I don't need to worry about it? I've found a lot of conflicting info across various Subaru forums and 510 forums, including that post that Savage42 referenced. This picture shows an open diff on the left and an LSD on the right. Notice the extra stuff to the left of the ring gear, this is where the LSD hides in this design. Whether it's a CLSD or a VLSD I don't really care at this point, I already bought it and I just want to make sure it will work without tearing itself apart in the first 1000 miles. I found a Subaru Forester forum that shows what I believe may be this same diff, after it has failed, all dissassembled. http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f89/pictures-busted-r160-lsd-47141/ Probably not a good sign that it failed, but if I can get it to work for a year or two I'd be happy. A newish Forester weighs a lot more than a 1972 240.

I found a guy with Datsun 510 stub axles. They were 100% identical to my 240z stub axles, same problem. Either they guy thought they were 510 axles and they are really 240 or they are the same. I'm thinking of having my stub axles machined to fit.

That's the deal then, I am using 240z r180 stub axles. They are also 25 spline and as you can see, they almost work. I suppose I need to source some 510 stub axles then. Shouldn't be too hard to find. Thanks for the info!

No, the same results when I swap sides of the stub axles. Passenger side is always sticking out too far.

Hello fellow Z enthusiasts! I have a a Subaru R160 CLSD with 3.9 ratio and bolt in axles that I am trying to use with my 72 240z. I believe this diff came out of an old Subaru XT turbo, but I am not totally sure. The problem I have is that the passenger side stub axle won't go all the way in, it sticks out about 1/4". It goes in enough to thread the bolt, but sticks out a little bit, and it has too much play in it if I wiggle it. The driver's side looks much better and does not have play. This happens even if I only install the passenger side alone. Inside the diff, the passenger side looks different too. I think it's possible that this diff could have been reassembled incorrectly after it was rebuilt (not by me). What I need to know is how can I make it work? Is it as easy as correcting an assembly issue, or should I have one of my stub axles machined 1/2 inch shorter? I'm not really wanting to disassemble the thing, as that may be beyond my capabilities. Here are some photos. Any advice is appreciated, as I thought this would be a bolt in deal after testing only one side. Maybe it will work ok like this, but it doesn't look good to me. Also, for those who will tell me this isn't a Clutch type LSD, you can't see it in the photos, but the clutch is to the left of the bottom photo, it is not a conventional design where the clutch is in the carrier, it's outside on the big ring gear. Below is the passenger side with the problem. Below is the driver's side that looks much better. This is the inside of the diff, see how you can see the splines on the passenger side but not the driver's side.

Hello, I have a 72 240z that the previous owner swapped an RB25 into, poorly. The car needs a lot (rust) and the swap was done poorly or unfinished. So I've pulled the engine out to send the body to paint and I decided to run a compression test to determine if I should have it rebuilt. I'm doing a cold compression test with the engine out of the car. I know you're supposed to have the engine at operating temperature when running a compression test, so maybe my numbers aren't valid. Here's what I got: 1-185 2-175 3-155 4-170 5-170 6-160 When I squirt some oil in the cylinders, the readings don't seem to change much. It's hard to do a lot of testing because my jump box keeps running low on juice. Are the low #3 and #6 cylinders with a cold compression test enough to warrant a rebuild or tear down while the engine is out of the car? Could it be a timing issue? Should I just put the engine back in the car and drive it? I'm not looking to build a monster here, I am just shooting for a nice driver with some decent power. I am planning to run the RB25 mostly stock, unless I have to rebuild it, then I might go crazy.

I'm looking to buy a shell/roller without rust in or around Socal. I'm looking for something hopefully with paint and body and rust repair already done. I would also consider cars with an engine & transmission, if they are cheap enough.