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studioti

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studioti last won the day on January 21 2016

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About studioti

  • Birthday 06/26/1976

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    Orange County, California

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  1. @mtnickel Would like to purchase a set of these adapter plates, plus rental of the jig and PDF instructions to get perfectly centered. How do I go about paying you ? One more thing... you mention "flipping the cages" to make the z31t axles shorter....where can I find more info on that so when I rebuilt my axles...I can do that mod. Thanks James
  2. I have a 77 280z being built for weekend track use. If you have a bolt in rollbar that will fit this application, please PM me. Thanks
  3. Like the title says. I'm located in Southern California, but willing to pay for shipping. Thanks PM me.
  4. AGREED 100% I don't post much. I try to come here and learn. We've all made mistakes and we all grow from it and should share it. Bottom line...if I start to read a thread and then see "Tony D" posting on it, I tend to stop and move on. I don't care how much he knows or what road he's been down (and driven that). The minutes in my life are worth more than wasting time reading his diatribes.
  5. I need the little ring that bolts on at the front of the cam, that is eccentric and actuates the mechanical fuel pump. It's often called an eccentric or fuel pump cam. Thanks
  6. I have a 77. It's still on the car. I can take it off and sell it to your but don't know what shipping will be. I live in southern California. I will split shipping cost with you. I would like to get $40 for the louvers though
  7. I have what you need. Will give you all the hardline in engine bay that I removed just last weekend. $100 shipped to your door
  8. I am in Southern California and will pick it up. Thanks please PM
  9. I've been a secret fan of your cars. Your silver s30zt is gorgeous and the engine bay is very tidy, but not over the top. Great job. I noticed that you recently built a carb car and i also have seen your video. I am heavily leaning towards the 40s as well. Do you care to share some insights as what "not" to do? Thanks
  10. First I'd like to say that I'm set on going with the Webers, because I'm shallow and how my engine looks/sounds is just as important as how it drives. I'm sure there are 10 different ways to reach my goal for 10x less, but heck...these are my pennies I've been saving, I'd like to blow it how i want. haha Where my car is now: • Newly rebuilt L28 F54 flat tops • Stock Cam • New stage1 port/polish P90 head • High compression mod. shaved .080" w/ longer valves, etc (BTW, i bought my tower shims from DEREK. Great product, great price, great communication +1 for him) • Approx Compression 10:1 • Currently running all stock EFI. • MSA 6-1 header: MSA 2.5 exhaust • 1st gen 5speed: R200 3.54 • Driving impression: love it, can't complain, big improvement of tired old stock L28 • Note: This is a weekend car, so daily driveability is not a first priority...more like third. But now the power bug has bit me and to top it off, I heard a set of Triple Webers roar at the recent MSA event and I was sold... My Goal: To modestly get 200rwhp or anything north. My budget: $2000 plus or minus the little things My Question: • DCOE 40 or DCOE 45? • What Cam? Lift? Duration? Springs? • What fuel pump? • What FPR? As for tuning, I have two very reliable sources with a knack for these Webers, so they'll be doing that for me. Please don't flame me about the search engine or tell me to read up on theories, I've done this. I just want a parts list of what others have bought in hopes to achieve the 200rwhp mark. Thanks to any that can help.
  11. Thank you. This does make sense to me, since you explain it that way. But do you think 25psi at idle and 30-32 on throttle is low?
  12. Car: 77 280z stock EFI except for pallnet style fuel rail Status: is running and have run steadily for the 4 years i've owned it. Problem: it drives fine, but i finally installed a pallnet style fuel rail with gauge on it and the pressure reads 25psi at idle and rises to 32-34psi when throttle is applied. Also, if i remove the vacuum line to the FPR the pressure on the gauge goes up to 35PSI and stays there no matter idle or on throttle. Comments: to be honest, the car runs and feels fine. i've just never monitored the fuel pressure until i bought the new fuel rail. i guess ignorance could be bliss...but now i know and it bothers me. haha Parts: • FPR 6 months old. Stock type but autozone brand • Injectors are 3 years old. stock type but autozone brand • Fuel filter 6 months old • All new fuel hoses in engine bay • Hard lines stock • Fuel pump same old stock one • Tank same old stock one Any advice is much appreciated. My thoughts are: • Upgrade to an adjustable fuel pressure regulator • Buy a new fuel pump • Install inline, clear fuel filter so i can see if there is any crud coming from tank or lines Thanks once again.
  13. I just have the stock bleeder nozzles. And everytime i bled the brakes i used the 2 person method. one to pump and the other to open and close the bleeder nozzle. as for the reservoir at the MC, i bought this bottle made to help with bleeding. its about a quart size and once you take the MC reservoir lid off you can plug this bottle upside down right in there and it will keep replenishing the fluid so that the reservoir never goes dry.
  14. I have a 280z with drums in the rear. I just want to share some info and hopefully this will save some other z owner from the grief i went through. In the process of rebuilding my engine, I took advantage of the empty engine bay to refresh the entire front rack and suspension. Doing so required me to disconnect my brake lines (obviously). When I put it all back together and bled the brakes, I couldn't get solid brake pedal pressure for the front. Here WERE my symptoms: • Brakes perfectly bled but pedal goes pretty much all the way down • No leakage anywhere! not calipers, not wheel cylinders, not master cylinder, not booster, not the dual pressure circuit, not the proportioning valve. • Red brake warning light is on in the dash • When you try to drive it, you have to pump the brakes multiple times before front brakes grab stopping power. • If you try to floor the brake pedal, your rear wheels will lock up • With car off, you could pump brakes to build pressure and it wont leak pressure, but if you take foot off...within a few seconds you have to pump all over again to regain pressure. I replaced all these parts, even though none of them were bad: Front calipers, Master Cylinder, Rear wheel cylinders, all brake pads, shoes, short metal brake lines, dual pressure circuit....last on my list was the prop valve, but luckily i figured it out before doing so. After a lot of searching and reading of this forum, i finally found the answer: Somebody mentioned that if you do a the s13 brake swap that you have to swap left and right calipers. this makes the bleed nozzles on the bottom <------- HERE IN LIES YOUR PROBLEM. THE PROBLEM: • The previous owner had both stock s30 calipers swapped improperly. He had the driver caliper on the right side and the passenger caliper on the left side. • Some way some how he was able to bleed it and it worked for me till i did the rebuild • When i reinstalled everything, i did it by notes and memory of how i took everything off. So i basically i did HIS same mistake and put calipers on the wrong side • Even though s30 calipers look identical, the bleed nozzles aren't in the same spot. • installing calipers on the wrong side will put the nozzles on the bottom of the caliper. This means that when you try to bleed them, little air pockets that rose to the top will not be bled out. BLEED NOZZLES SHOULD BE ON TOP. THE FIX: • I did more research in the FSM and noticed in the drawings and pics that when the calipers were installed on the correct size it will situate the bleed nozzles up top • Simply put i just swapped the calipers and everything was perfect. brakes are solid • I read on this forum that you can just unbolt the caliper but keep the brake line on and then hold the caliper at a 12 oclock position so the brake bleeder is up top then do your bleeding process. But if you go through the trouble of doing that, might as well swap the calipers. I know this post might seem elementary in hind sight. Kind of a "DUH" moment and i know most of you probably think that I made a beginner mistake. But honestly, this one had me stummped. I must have bleed the brakes 6 times before fixing it. If you are buying a used car from a previous owner (which i assume most of us are) then you never know how they maintained the car before you. So lesson learned, i'm going to take three things out of this ordeal: 1. I now have a completely restored and perfectly working brake system from master cylinder to the wheels 2. I now have complete knowledge of how the brake system works, bolt to bolt 3. I will never just assume that how it's installed currently on the car from the P.O. is correct and will find pics/diagrams before reinstalling anything. I hope this helps at least one person out there and saves them lots of time and money....
  15. I am looking for the Brake switch that sits right underneath the master cylinder. Haynes manual calls it "Dual circuit pressure differential switch". basically it sends brake fluid to the wheel cylinders and detects if there is a too much difference in pressure. if there is...then a piston inside slides to one side and completes the circuit to the switch turning on a bright red brake light inside the dash. if you have this i'd like it only, no master cylinder needed. i'd also like a stock proportioning valve that goes on the fire wall as well. all of these parts are for a 77 280z thanks
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