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vbgambini

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  1. dmoralesbello First I have to say how I didnt see your build until today lol. Been on these forums for a while now and finally ran into your car. And it is amazing I have to say. I got my first classic Nissan 78 280z (Previously owned a 95 and 98 240sx and a few 350z) a few years back and now trying to do little by little to it. This build just gave me more motivation for my 280z. Best of all I see you are located here in South FL. Hard to find local Z guys. Im located in North Miami and would love to meet up and ask questions about your car and maybe get some guidance from your experiences if thats possible and ok with you. Could I PM you my phone number? Great ride again!!
  2. Thank you sir. Good instruction there. Yea I've seen the AtlanticZ guides. Pretty good there too. Any of the bolts in the front and rear that I need to worry about rounding out? Stripping? Breaking? Etc. just so I have an idea what to look out for? Will penetrating fluid pretty much help?
  3. Yea I was just trying to find an easier way rather than dropping the whole assembly. And not have to deal with the spindle pin just yet. So all I really have to do is remove the hand brake cable, brake line or caliper, and the half shaft right? Then just un bolt from the top inside the hatch, and everything should fall right out correct?
  4. Cool thanks for that link. Ill look into that more. They are definitely closer than Orlando lol. More like 40 minutes away from me. Seems like a good place. How did you hear about them? Sees like they only do race cars though. You think they will do regular street cars?
  5. Thanks. Yea getting it running again is the priority. Then ill tackle the suspension after. But thanks for the info. Now I know who to get a hold of when im in trouble lol. Do I really have to take the spindle pin out though? I read somewhere that they just released it from the top rather than the spindle pin itself. Did I read this wrong? Those pins arent cheap.
  6. Seattle Thanks a lot for the great information. I gotta find that book. The original plan was to do as much of the stuff myself which I have done so far. Had to find out how to get it started when I first got it. Did some maintenance and other stuff that I can handle on my time that I have etc. Never got to this part where its all technical lol. It is currently not running again I think due to a bad fuel pump. So I have to tackle that first. Think I let it sit for too long . But it is not a daily driver and I try to drive it on the weekends here and there. The apprehension is definitely there and I dont have all the money to where I can just get it done lol. I just dont want to start on it, pay for certain things, expensive things, then have to pay more to fix my mess, or if I cant get it back together. But it seems these cars arent that bad to work on, its just the age of them that things will get broken and screwed up. Just dont want to make it worse. But I completely understand what you are saying. I think after thinking this over and over again, ill start with doing all the bushings first, more maintenace stuff, probably get the hard brake lines done because I did try to put my SS lines on, and the bolts are just too soft to unscrew even with the flare wrenches, and then tackle this job. Does that seem the right choices, rather than spending $1200 on coilovers and still having other little parts that need to be done first? I was going to do the floor pans and frame rails first (they are not that bad, but they do need work), but I think I can let that go a little for now. Get the car running again then go from there. Just dying on how high the car sits, and it came with 17 inch wheels, when I want 16s on there with it lowered a little lol. Am I missing anything? Sweet car btw. Had a 98 240sx with a 1J. Eventually want to boost this Datsun for sure!
  7. Thanks for the insight. That sounds like a good plan to maybe source the parts too. I havent seen any for sale though normally. Yea I have to see how to tackle this. I mean I have enough space in the driveway to get it jacked up and leave it like that. Just worried if I screw something up how I would get the wheels back on to get it somewhere lol. Would you say the front or the rear is better to start with? I guess easier than the other? Or what I should be ready for when I do this. I know not everything goes right. Something will break, not want to come out, etc. Could maybe an exhaust shop do the welding if I cant find someone around here with more experience with these?
  8. Cool! Sounds pricey doing that way and sending it to someone. This is my first older Z car so Im new to this. Use to bolt up coilovers many times before but this is totally different. Just didnt want to tackle the suspension then get myself stranded lol. Wish I could find someone around here to help me out. Also JPN Garage is like 4 hours north of me so that will be tough.Thanks for the information.
  9. Wussup guys, looking to buy some coilovers for my 78 280z soon. Really liking the BC Coilovers for these cars. Doesn't seem like the camber option has to be welded on like the Mckinney set. Seems to just be bolt on. Am I right? Well I am located in the South Florida area, North Miami to be exact. Wanted to know if there is anyone that can help me with these. Especially since I have no welding experience. Also if I can't find someone, how much would a shop generally charge for this service? Thanks guys.
  10. Cool. Thanks. Any help in the South Florida area??
  11. Wussup guys, looking to buy some coilovers for my 78 280z soon. Really liking the BC Coilovers for these cars. Doesn't seem like the camber option has to be welded on like the Mckinney set. Seems to just be bolt on. Am I right? Well I am located in the South Florida area, North Miami to be exact. Wanted to know if there is anyone that can help me with these. Especially since I have no welding experience. Also if I can't find someone, how much would a shop generally charge for this service? Thanks guys.
  12. Will try the push rod asap. Thanks BTW any idea how soft the pedal should be? If possible to describe? Im comparing it to newer vehicles and they are pretty stiff.
  13. Sorry about this. I really thought I adjusted it to the right length because when I drove it then it was fine. Actually thought it was too short because I felt the pedal was still too soft. So do I bleed the MC again after adjusting it? Then drive it to see or can I just do this while parked?
  14. Update Took the Z out today for a little drive after a few weeks of it parked in the driveway. Last time I drove it is when I installed a new brake master cylinder and booster. Drove fine for about 10 minutes, then I started to smell a burning scent. Thought it was just because I havent driven it in a while but then it continued. As I drove a little more the pedal became stiffer and stiffer. So luckily I was close to home and as soon as I pulled into the driveway, the pedal got very stiff. Same feeling I got before the master and booster were changed. Checked the handbrake, it was fully down, and now it barely can move like as if the handbrake was up. Felt like the brakes were binding or seizing up. History of the brakes are, front pads replaced, rear driver side has new shoes, passenger side had pretty good meat on it left so I left it. New master cylinder bench bled to the best I can, and new booster. Bled the system many times as well. Front calipers are still original I believe. Now it just seems like the brakes are stuck not letting me move as if the handbrake was engaged. Any ideas what to check? I remember when changing the front pads, one of the caliper piston rubber seal did not look too good. Could it be that? Smell seemed like it was coming from the front, but not fully sure. Did not seem to lose any fluids, did not see any leaks on the driveway. Help would be appreciated.
  15. Cool. Yea I gotta get me a new set of some vise grips. Ill give that a try.
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