Bigbrowndog

As I said in the post, I tried it with the wheels off the ground. Will try the other way as suggested by JMortensen.

Howdy- My 240Z racecar came with adjustable camber plates on all 4 strut towers. The front wheels are splayed all the way out (max negative camber) as the car has not been finished and final adjustments made. It came shipped this way. It is hard to steer and move so I want to decrease the camber a bit to make it mobile and then adjust next for the track. With the wheels off the ground, I loosened up the 3 bolts on the front struts and thought I would be able to move the struts easily to decrease the negative camber. But they don't move at all. Before I start hammering on this here and there, does the strut top bolt need to be loosened as well? Has a set of coilovers underneath. Or is there something else I should be doing to get them to move freely? I don't want to damage anything trying to get these to move, so any advice is appreciated. Thx

Folks- I have a 73 240Z that is having difficulty. I have done a lot of reading on this one, and everything looks to be right in terms of the oil pump shaft per the pics I have seen and descriptions. At top dead center on number one it is at 11:25 or so. The cam gear marks line up as well. But I cannot advance the distributor enough using the factory bracket on the distributor.There is not enough adjustment when I turn it counter clockwise to keep it in groove on the base bracket. I have loosened up the second bolt on the underside of the distributor and everything is at the end of adjustment to get it to run. The motor was just rebuilt by the previous owner. Makes me wonder if the oil pump shaft should be moved to the next groove, or if there are different distributors and brackets for different years. Again, looking at the pics the oil pump shaft looks to be correctly installed. Has anyone run into this before? The other issue with this is the coil gets hot, as does the baseplate under the points. The base plate will burn your finger when trying to start (really hot). Is there possibly a grounding issue or is an MSD coil just too hot for standard points. I have an HEI distributor that I am looking to install & may just put it in now but the timing issue has me wondering what is going on. Any help is appreciated. Thx

Thanks. I know Winter Racing does a lot of head work on the P90 heads, I am not sure how much of this work helps with cooling at #5 or 6 or what helps or hurts earlier heads. Ty

I have a Winter Racing Motor and the outlets at the front and back passenger side of the motor (on the water inlet and rear for the heater hose) are plugged shut. I am guessing doing so is okay, but want to make sure before I do the same on a stock 2.4L autocross motor. There must not be any need or benefit of circulating water through the heater hose on the outside. My only concern is really rear head cooling. Appreciate your thoughts. Thx

I have a set of Corbeau Forzas. These are going in a vintage road racing car and they are definitely too high with my rollbar and a helmet. I will need to cut out the existing OEM brackets to make them sit lower. Any issues or concerns structure wise? Likely not, but I thought I would ask. The floors in these cars is micro thin, so I will be putting in some flat plate to reinforce for sure. I will take some pics and post as I go along, as I am not seeing anything that others have done in a vintage road racer.