emaster

I've been searching for quite a while, I know this is going to sound a little dumb, but what is the easiest way to get to top dead center for the camshaft allignment in post #2? I was thinking that since you are taking the valve cover off that you would just turn the engine and eyeball it to where both valves are closed?

Okay so I was able to get it apart with just a rubber mallet and penetrating oil by hammering on the fin instead of the rear extension itself. Now that I have the housing apart, I will call it a night. I will have a camera ready for what follows

I promise I'll take pictures and do a write up for the rebuild! The rear extension is just stuck on and I dont know how much of a beating I can safely give it, or if I am going to need to do anything else.

I have a shop manual that I have followed, I've removed all the bolts for the rear extension, removed the speedometer housing thing, the pin for the striking lever, then pulled it out as far as it could and turned it counter clock wise. I've been spraying the crack with penetrating oil, beating it with a rubber mallet, and trying to break it apart. Any tips? I've identified it as the FS5W71A 5 speed from years 77-79. I bought it from a guy who got it from a junk yard, so I figured I would overhaul it before swapping it into mine. I'm sure after I break into it I will have more questions I bought an online shop manual, and I have a printout one as well and MR. google and search haven't showed me anyone else with this problem let me know if you guys want pics of anything, thanks for the help!! Eric

If I need to replace my camshaft, what should I replace it with? What are the odds I can get one for 200$ or less? I've been trying to find them they seem difficult to find

Yeah well I broke the screw extractor inside the bolt... I am going to take a hammer with a punch to it to shatter the screw extractor, if that doesn't work I will use an air chisel with a punch attachment to break the screw extractor. After that is gone then jolts from that should break the rust and stuff around the bolt loose and I can someone else who is better at this help me out with the screw extractor. If we cant get it out we can just then drill it out with the right size drill bit and use a tap for the threads... Sound good?

I am trying to use a screw extractor, So far it is slipping inside the bolt. I think I need a bigger one. I have a ton of screw extractors, in fact I have the EXACT same set as shown in the picture, the problem is, is that one is made of a metal way too soft and the threads of it bend. I will show pics after im done with school today. I never thought of welding something to the bolt and then spinning that... but thats a last resort. Putting my header on wasn't supposed to be this much work

hey guys, I broke an exhaust manifold bolt inside the engine block... what do I have to do to get it out?

haha okay I normally would not have asked that question but when I put it to start nothing happened, I just realized that I probably painted over where the cables connect to so it probably got insulated... yeah. Time to pull out the paint remover!

so red cable is positive battery cable and black one is negative battery cable right?

Thanks so much! I was totally about to F that up and probable give it a short circuit haha that would have been bad. Thanks!!!

the photo is currently unavailable, could you do that again?? sorry haha

I just got my transmission back in and I cant remember which cable goes where... I have a picture of my starter, which you probably shouldn't need. Basically I forgot which cable goes on which part of the starter, or at least where my cables should go. Negative/ positive on top or bottom... thanks oh and there is another cable that goes on one of the terminals as well and it has a plug as well, does that go top/bottom and does it go with the negative battery cable?

Use a timing light...

That sounds like it would cause some problems... dont you need to like, cork/plug it up or something???