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Cheesymamba

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About Cheesymamba

  • Birthday 12/01/1994

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    Female
  • Location
    Poulsbo Washington

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  1. Thank you all for the responses. It seems that the passenger side a pillar is slightly tweaked, judging from the door fitment but only by a couple mm. So it could probably be bent back into shape without fatiguing the metal. As for details of the crash I was driving in the rain going about 45 locked the brakes up trying to make a turn and slid off the road. I managed to decelerate most of the way before I went off but since there was a hill the tires caught in the mud and gravity pretty much flipped it. Luckily most of the weight landed on the roof instead of the hood and the inner fenders are undamaged as far as I can tell the splitter I had on the front seems to have taken most of the damage to the undercarriage as well. Mechanically it's pretty good apart from the combustion chambers filling with oil.
  2. I rolled my Z a few months ago and the roof is caved in. I have a line on a replacement roof but I have no idea if replacing it would compromise the structural integrity of the chassis. I was wondering if it was worth it to try and repair it or if I'm better off just finding a new chassis. The car has a lot of sentimental value to me and I'd like to avoid replacing it if I can.
  3. I have the Urethane Xenon air damn on my Z. Fitment was fine on mine but I don't really have anything else to compare it to. Thought I'd mention though that if anyone wants a cheap and easy bolt on reinforcement to stop it from sagging the Skillard type 1 splitter works wonders to support it though I would recommend buying their shorter model since it sticks out a bit farther on the xenon air dam then the fiberglass MSA one it was initially developed for (the curve on the Xenon one is more shallow then MSA's fiberglass model). A lot easier to just bolt than on rather than try fabricating your own setup. Plus it blocks off the area under the radiator which makes a noticeable difference even during regular street driving.
  4. I have both the Urethane air dam and a Skillard splitter and got them to fit pretty ok. At the moment the front most angle brackets contact the air damn and create a small gap. Nothing too obvious but if I did it again I would notch the mount holes with a dremel to move the brackets back a little bit (a quarter in or so would probably solve my problems). as for the core support bolts I had a similar problem with the splitter hanging to low to reach as it was bottoming out on the stock 280z radiator hose(The 240z hose sits a bit higher) I had to pick up some longer bolts from the hardware store and a stack of washers to get it installed at the height I wanted unfortunately I don't have any pictures of the core support bolt holes. Here's some pictures of the urethane air dam and splitter installed on my Z though. I wish I could get you an undercar shot but unfortunately I don't have a camera at the moment.
  5. Speedhunters just did an article about a 260z that had an early set of these fitted http://www.speedhunters.com/2017/11/shooting-jun-imais-260z-from-the-sky/. Not a whole lot of information about them but better than none.
  6. I Bought Their Under hood kit Haven't installed it yet but it was pretty complete came with everything I needed except an idler pulley. But that kit is for people with existing factory AC setups I dont know what the complete kit comes with.
  7. Motorsport Auto has recently started selling some aftermarket reproductions for a lower price. I can't tell you what the quality is like though I've never used them. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic21a09/24-5102A http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic21a09/24-5103A
  8. Here's some photos with the xenon style airdam (sorry for the low quality I'm a pretty bad photographer)
  9. The core support sitting higher on 240s than 280s should at most require 2 longer screws from your local hardware store to reach. all the forces on the splitter are pushing down so it doesn't have to sit flush with the core support just hanging from the core support should be fine. It looks like the turnbuckles are the main source of stability anyways. oh and I can confirm if you are running a xenon/urethane air damn you will need longer bolts for the core support as the flexible airdam does indeed seem to hang lower I have one on my car and I can confirm that the splitter fits although the front turnbuckle mounts contact the recessed portion of the xenon airdam inboard of the brake duct holes you can either slot the holes for the turn buckle mounts and move them aft or just live with the splitter hanging 1mm lower than it should at the very front.
  10. It looks like they have another one for the 240z Center console http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLACK-STITCH-CENTER-CONSOLE-TRIM-LEATHER-SKIN-COVERS-FITS-DATSUN-240Z-70-73-/391323450610?hash=item5b1cb1fcf2
  11. Skimmed through some reviews of their other products and people seem to like them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SROyWIuTwNc http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1909684-Shift-boots-arm-rest-covers-from-topgaiters-on-ebay http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=461814 http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=562037 http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showthread.php/159110-Who-s-got-Top-Gaiters-ebrake-or-shift-boots
  12. If the grid is your problem then you can get a replacement here, its easier then replacing the window.
  13. http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/10/ole-orange-bang-star-bash-bust/ This guy has some on his 240z in 15x8 with 0 offset and has a few things tos ay about them in the article
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