Z-Driver

I found out the hard way (by buying, fitting, then exchanging 2 starters) that my block only accepts staggard mount starters. I have one that fits but is not correctly engaging the flexplate. Is it possible to bolt the flexplate on backwards making the distance from the starter gear to the ring gear too far so that it won't correctly engage?

I am not exactly sure which year 2-bolt sbc 350 I have; I was told is was a 69-73 and the casting no. is 3970010. I have a 700r4 with a 168 tooth flexplate. My question is about my starter application. I had a high torque starter with a dual bolt pattern and it fit fine. I got rid of that one and opted for a stock replacement and I cant find one that fits. The nose of the starter hits the flexplate before it can reach the mounting holes. Do I have the wrong starter or wrong flexplate?

The toyota 4piston caliper swap was the single easiest upgrade that I've done yet. Calipers from any model 1979-1984 toyota 4x4 will bolt right up. I just went to autozone and bought a set of loaded calipers for $40 a piece, and twenty minutes later they were on. The only necessary mod is to remove or alter the brake dust guard.

What are some basic steps for setting up a carb after initial fire up? I'm new to everything and I just learn it as I go, but this has me stumped. I've played with it for about a week now and nothing seems to be improving. It is running extremely rich. the butterflies don't move and fuel drips out of the secondary boosters. I did the best I could to set the timing (about 12 btdc) but nothing I adjust makes much of a difference. The carb is a Road Demon 725; basically a holley configuration.

all the shift linkage is correct. could it be that the fluid hasn't fully circulated yet?

Right before I put the driveshaft in I checked the differential and made sure it turned freely. It was only since I bolted up the driveshaft that it didn't roll backward. I was a dope and forgot to check the transmission when I was under there putting it in.

The wheels spin freely so it isn't the brakes. From the best that I can tell it sounds like it is coming from the transmission. Could it be something that happens with a fresh tranny w/o sufficient circulation of lube? other than that I'm not sure.

Hey guys, I'm just about ready to take the first test drive. I just need to adjust my carb and go after this. But I ran into what might be a big problem. I bolted in my driveshaft yesterday and when I went to roll the car out of my garage it wouldn't budge. In neutral it rolls foreward but is really hard to roll backward (it does roll but very difficult). The 700r4 is rebuilt and when I looked for binding in the driveshaft I saw none. What is the problem here? any suggestions would be great since this is my first car project and I'm quite inexperienced. Thanks a lot.

When I had my motor built I was told that with vortec heads it is not a good idea to run that much N2O because the base of the head wasn't thick enough? He said about 125-shot would be max, any more and I would blow a head gasket. Is this accurate?

I did hook the negative battery cable to the lower terminal Electrical is definitely not my talent. I had a friend tell me that the thick(12 guage) white wire was suspicious and the black-yellow wire was not thick enough to activate the starter. The thick white wire is hooked up to the upper terminal along with the positive battery cable and now the black-yellow wire is connected to the lower terminal: I still have nothing, is the wiring correct? Should I begin to look elswhere for my problem?

Thanks for the reply. First thing I will do is go through and check every ground. Then I'll do like you said and trace the wires with a multimeter. All the fusible links look good and all the stock wires are in good shape as well. This is my first car build up so bear with me but another question I have is with my starter. It has an "upper terminal," which I hooked the positive battery cable to, a "lower terminal," which the negative terminal is hooked to, and a "spade switch" which I hooked the black-yellow wire to. Does this sound correct? Thanks

To the best of my ability I set up my engine wiring and when I went to start it I got nothing. I checked from the steering column wires all the way to the connections. There wasn't any sign of electrical in any guages or any other electronic system. My 260 worked fine before and now I'm stuck. I drew a quick diagram and posted it in my personal gallery. Could someone tell me what I might have done wrong. If further info is needed I will tell you everything. Thanks a lot. The last thing I want to do is pay to have an electrician tell me I'm an idiot.

Thanks thats exactly what I needed to know. I'll take it to a shop this week and get it taken care of.

The U-joints are visibly too large. They are about 1/4" too big on either side of the flange and about 1/16" too large in diameter.

I just picked up a couple driveshafts from the wrecking yard(one for the 700r4 yoke and one for the shaft). The problem is neither of the u-joints seem to fit the differential flange. I bought the one from JTR and I can't see how it fits. Do I need to find another u-joint?? I am going to get it cut tomorrow and I need to know what to ask them. Thanks