hagerty_justin

The ground cable was bad, changed that. But the key still won't do anything. No noise at all when I try to start it. The car starts fine when I jump the starter. I also have the ignition hooked up to a togle switch so the key doesnt need to be on for it to run. The key switch doesn't do anything anymore, it did but just in the last few hours the key won't even turn lights on or anything.

My trouble started sort of like a hit and miss, the starter works fine. But when going to start sometimes it wont do anything, I believe the issue is a relay under the glove box, or a reset-able fuse? If i try and start the car every once in a while it would work, and sometimes all power to everything would turn off. I might end up just putting in a start switch, but I would rather have the key actually work. Anyone have any idea what this could be? I know its not the starter because when its jumped it works fine. Thanks for any help!

http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/zr/full.aspx?Page=58 This is where i got the part, its near the bottom and is for headlight relays Okay I will take a look at that My car is a 74 260z and I would love to fix the highbeams because the lows are so terrible I cant drive over 30mph at night

Hey, I have been looking around about why my headlights only have lowbeams, I asked the guy at my local auto parts store and he said that there is a relay called the passing relay so I did some searching and found one on black dragon. I cant find anything about where the relay goes. I attached pictures of the relay and hopefully someone can tell me where it goes, or if I got took for 15 dollars Thank you for all your help!

wow, very helpful, I took my car to school last week to put new spring and struts front and rear. The fronts were no problem, rears... well I couldn't get the pins out. I look in two different manuals and they made it seem easy. Is there a way I can put new springs and shocks in the rear without taking out the pin? something like just taking the whole rear swing-arm off? and how are you supposed to take out the locking pin the manual just said take it out not how to do it.

okay, so I dide the front no problem on my 74 260z, but i could not seem to get the rear transverse link out.. and hints or anything? i notice your car does not have the same rear setup as mine.

okay, i have a few pictures but none that really show much i would have to take the head off if you wanted any pictures of the valves, i can get some of the cam and rockers later but heres what i ahve now. those nuts...

and ya the guy who i got the "rebuild head off of ebay may have not done the best job, the valve lash was to tight on a few of the exhaust valves so the only way to change it was to take of the nut and grind it down so the lash could be adjusted for more clearance. so the valve guides my be bad.

Okay, thanks Pharaohabq. I am positive that the rings are in the right order, and I used a compression tester when I blew my head gasket I guess I should do that again. And your right the ring gap may be a problem im not sure, and i did put new mean bearings in when i replaced the pistons. I'm draining the oil right now what a waste of amsoil, then i will put in the 30 weight and hopefully after a few hundred miles it will go away.

thank you hoov, while replacing the head gasket we made sure to check the deck and head for flatness. And the ring gap was fine. I talked to my instructor at school today about it, he said I messed up, i used synthetic oil and should not have. He told me to put in 20 weight with detergent. I couldnt find 20 weight so i got 30 hopefully this will be fine. If anyone else has something that may help, say it i dont know what to do, besides get a job and buy a rb25

okay cheesecake, Thank you I will do the dry and wet test this weekend and look at doing a leakdown sometime soon.

I have read about people putting ATF in the cylinders and letting it sit to clean possible glazing from the cylinders? or people putting ATF in the oil? im not so sure about any of this.

Ok, so i got the Z from my aunt for free with a sucked valve, tore the engine down rebuild with new pistons,rings, bearins and a new rebuilt head. The engine was not machined but we did hone it. (with all new gaskets and whatnot) I drove the car for 300 miles and blew a headgasket (due to forgetting to put one of the head locating pins in... ops), the car smoked the whole 300 miles and burned oil (lots of oil) Bought a new nisimo headgasket and head bolts and put it all back together, cheacked the head and deck for warpage and it was perfectly fine. I have 459 miles on the new pistons and rings and the thing still smokes, I have read that it may take 1,000 miles to seat the rings? I guess im just looking for advice on how to seat them faster becasue i feel like and ******* driving my car with a cloud of blue smoke behind me. I am only 19 so i dont know ****.... yet Thanks

thanks guys