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mikesv8z

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About mikesv8z

  • Birthday 05/27/1966

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    Colorado

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  1. Finnally running .. 1989 iroc motor with wieand intake 305 ho heads edelbrock carb . d'oh no good at videos yet . Might need some more instruction.
  2. These are recent pix of my motor plumbed and nearly ready to fire . Also a a pic of the rear of the car during fuel cell install and diamond plate .
  3. I have a 1989 350 out of an iroc camaro , when I purchased it there was no flywheel . The problem come when I try to find the stock one I can't find one . Do I have to use thie stock one or can use an after market 153 tooth one ? help
  4. I need a little info for my motor install . My motor is a 1989 iroc 350 tpi motor originally . I purchased the correct water pump for that motor ,but I am not using the serpentine belt that was on the motor . If I use a traditional belt it will turn the pump the wrong way . Can I use a pump that rotates cw ,or will this affect flow ?
  5. the motor is complete its the car thats been lightened the motor started out with 72 or 76 cc heads I raised the comp from 8.5 to1 to about 10 to 1 240hp is the advertized hp for a stock 350 for that year but it's with all the acc running all I have is an alt. now
  6. I'm constantly being asked these two questions whats your horse power ,I reply um I'm not sure it's a 89 iroc motor with stock cam and tpi intake but I put 305 HO heads 58cc chambers raising the comp. to about 10 to 1?any guess on hp?I thought maybe 300 ...too much ?Then they look again at the car and say whats it's weight? Don't have a clue missing alot of info. Whats the curb weight of a stock 75 280 could start from there I guess.My car is missing alot I mean alot
  7. would'nt suggest that could cause clearance problems with the stearing shaft If you have the cash t56 is mounted straight up some can be configured to place the shifter in two mounting positions but also opens problems with speedo and space in the trans tunnel I kinda thought the shifter looked out of place (cut off wheel took care of that )just made the hole bigger (does not help if you keep the console)The pic that you posted of the shifter looks like possibly that the tail shaft is'nt centered maybe somebody tried to correct a drive line vibration,also the shifter itself is specific to the t5 it has a bend to compensate for the tilt of the tranny tilting the motor will give your shifter a weird angle in the upper gears.
  8. whats the thickness of your shims [the aluminum parts ] might have right and left switched .The t5 bellhousing is clocked 15 degrees rotating the shifter towards the driver . your motor may not be tilting but the shifter is I suggest measure and confirm that the right size shims are insalled on the correct side 1.25" on the pass side and 2.25 on the drivers side. I would also try a laser level (rotary type) to measure the car on a level surface tires at pressure measure the srut towers to see if they are level to the ground measure to the valve covers see if the is a measuerable difference. good luck {this method detected the sag in the middle of my car before restructuring)
  9. roll bar and frame connections, ruff ruff so far ehh???
  10. Isee that you are in colo you are more than welcome to come look any time. here fishy fishy
  11. Sorry no pix of the early part but I can show you in detail where to cut yours and if you are feeling rather lucky some where I saw one with a working trunk , I have some ideas of how to do this . And yes I will be doing something about the frame but at a cost of interior look . My solution is to build a roll cage tha basically connects the 4 strut towers together as one big box (a removable strut bar connects the front) with an x brace running thru the doors from front to back. In my new pix you can see how the wind sheild was cut .The new one is chopped down a further 4 " Learned how to do that after the glass guy succeeded at cutting the glass. had to section the wind sheild frame by cutting the frame in 3 places and welding in a piece from a donor car which I might add got some good looks as two white guys cut a 6" x 20 " strip out of the wind shield frame of the donor car at the junk yard again with the now infamous sawz em all. I figure any way why not it has z right in the name......
  12. A little history ,this car started out as an almost finshed project . Curse the inventor of affordable sawzalls and cheap beer . ( not a good combo ) Let me add that at the time I had zero auto body exp. This is what I learned , The rear hatch has basically the right curve to match the body lines from the strut towers back . This is where I learned my first true auto body term (other than bondo) sectioning .I " sectioned " the rear hatch to fit from about an inch forward of the strut bolts. The radiused areas are actually 2" emt pipe I over laid that with sheet metal which I used hammers and dollies to shape the edges. ( more I learned ) .Another unfortunate thing I did learn also was a term welding sequence. Then I got to learn about metal shrinking ,and how to do it So any how or more like some how I got it to this point . Right now I am working to finish the brakes and suspension , and am clearing out the engine bay for my 350tpi motor . The suspension is all msa the brakes came via ebay (the backs fit purfecto the front require some reworking of the spacers.
  13. Heres a couple of pix tell me what you think..
  14. I checked precisiongear.com and they list two for 180 diffs one early and one late, are these not for zcars the part #'s are lom 55e & lom 55L
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