cygnusx1

Using the 77/78 280Z seat rails under older Miata seats. Open up the rear most rail mount hole of the Z seat rails a bit for wiggle room. Drill a new hole in the forward part of the rail to match the alignment of the threaded holes in the new seat bottom. You need to beat down the underside of the seat metal for clearance, but you can use spacers to compensate some to get more clearance for the lever mechanism. The more spacers you use, the less you need to beat the seat down, but your seat height will be higher in the car as a result. I beat down the seats for both rails, even though you only need clearance on the adjuster side. Doing it on both sides makes the cushion feel more symmetric to your rear-end later. I found a happy medium of spacers and hammering, which puts the seats about 3/4" higher than the stock bottoms, but at a much more comfortable lean angle than stockers. You will need to adjust the width, left to right distance between the rails a little with a hammer, dremmel, file, or leverage. It's pretty easy to move them +/- 3/4" in either direction just by leveraging them after they have been mounted, especially if you used spacers. The seat metal is pretty soft and allows flex left to right of each rail for very easy alignment to the floor mounting holes in the car.

Wow glad my maps are helping out! Been a long time.

http://forums.hybridz.org/files/file/30-turbo-engine-flow-map-calculator/

http://forums.hybridz.org/files/file/4-turbo-swap-wiring-diagram/

I have successfully performed two L28ET into S30 swaps. Both were into 280Z but my experience in both cases revealed faulty ECCS connectors. Horrible running, popping, poor idle, rev-limiting, lean running, all of the above are symptoms of bad connection at the two ECCS plugs. When you get to that point, push and pull each wire, directly at the back of the connectors, with the car running, and you will instantly identify the problem areas. Adding dielectric grease, and carefuly "preloading" the pins in the ECCS connector by slightly bending them to one side, seems to alleviate the issues. Not sure if it helps, but I have a pretty simple wiring schematic for the swaps over in the downloads section of hybridz. http://forums.hybridz.org/files/download/4-turbo-swap-wiring-diagram/

Yarn stood right up after I added the air trip device. Heat pours out at idle. Not sure how much it does to relieve hood pressure, but you can gain leaps and bounds there by simply blocking most of the nose grill.

It's called cost control. If they had to test each rad, and actually fix it like I fixed mine, they would have a different badge on the car, and it would cost more.

Because I can just about reach the oil drain plug from over the fender....from either side! Sooo much room.

 Drop some lube at the seals right where the jam nuts are.  That has helped me in the past.  Being methodical with the linkage is a must.  You are on the right track.  Without PERFECT linkage, setting up and diagnosing the carbs is impossible.Â

I feel the same way. Enough work. Just drive now. Sound is perfect.

I tuned the accel by watching WBO2 and observing engine rev response during tip-in. With Tunerstudio you can watch the "dot's and % rates" in real time and see the AFR. I rev it from idle and from a few other rpm points, in neutral, with various pedal rates, and observe/adjust. Then of course the test drive to make sure it works on the road. I seem to get better response by blending TPS and MAP. Again, trial and error over a few years. The tip-in feels fine right now. I get nice response with heel and toe shifting too. Albeit not a response like my Weber car, but pretty darn good for what it is. 100% decel fuel because it's only for when the throttle snaps shot, not actual deceleration, in my firmware version. I messed with it and it felt better when not pulling fuel, for the split seconds during "negative pedal travel". This aspect of tuning takes the longest to get close. It's not easy to get perfect. It's a final important detail that I messed with a lot, to get where it is now...it's still evolving as it everything. Sorry I forgot to zip the file. I rar'd it instead. http://www.win-rar.com/download.html?&L=0

0.020 stock overbore and an "A" cam from an L28. Should work fine with stock L28ET with very minor tweaks. As a matter of fact, when I swapped from the stock turbo cam earlier this Summer, it hardly required any VE changes greater than 2% on the map.