barichardson5727

Awesome pic...I really like your dash. I agree that you should look into upgrading your alternator to a larger, internally regulated unit. The stock alt. is not going to be large enough if you have modified the car. As far as wiring is concerned, if you are worried about the electrical load passing through the stalk you should consider using a relay to seperate any large currents from passing through any old wiring in the car.

Are you using the correct clutch fork to match your slave cylinder rod? There are two different types that work with this transmission. The older style uses an adjustable rod and the newer style is auto adjusting. Here are some pics you can compare: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=147965

Thanks for the recommendations. I plan to check my advance this weekend, hopefully it turns out to be something easy like that. I am currently using a stock electric fuel pump (4psi iirc). I have a new carter 6psi electric fuel pump that I need to install. That should take care of any issues I may be having with getting enough fuel to the carbs. I was already planning are to convert over to an ITB EFI setup in the future, but I am still looking into all of my options since EFI is pretty new to me and I don't want to spend that much money without plenty of research. That SU EFI setup was pretty cool and I have a few extra manifolds to experiment with if I decide to go that route. I guess the only thing holding me back is that I would have to remove the head again and cut the notches out for the injectors, but that shouldn't be very difficult.

During acceleration I experience heavy detonation. My motor has a pretty high compression ration which I believe to be the main culprit of my problems and it seems that 93 octane just isn't high enough with my current motor setup. Since E85 provides equivalent to 105 octane and is readily available in my area I have been considering making the conversion. Decreased mileage and availability are non-issues to me. If I cared about mileage I wouldn't have built this motor. My main concern is that since I am still running SU carbs I do not know if I run the risk of ruining my carbs by running E85 through them since ethanol is more corrosive than straight gasoline. If anyone has tried E85 with SU carbs I am interested in hearing your results. I am not worried about the rest of the fuel system since everything else can be made compatible with ethanol fairly easily. If E85 would not be a suitable solution or if you have any other ideas as to why I am experiencing detonation issues I am open to any suggestions. For reference my motor is a 3.1L L28 w/ 89mm flat-top pistons, E31 head w/ oversized valves. I am also running modified SU carbs to compensate for the greater fuel demads of the larger motor. I have done a bit of searching on this topic, but it seems like every thread goes off-topic with people providing their political beliefs regarding alternate fuels. This is not the place for that discussion. I would like to keep on the topic of whether or not E85 would be a suitable solution to the problems I have been having. Keep any political views to yourselves please.

Are you sure it didn't get locked somehow. When I was removing the purple tint from my hatch window I closed the hatch and was unable to get it back opened again. I must have been working at getting the hatch opened for 15 minutes before I realized it had locked and I was turning the key the wrong way. Its probably a longshot since you actually removed and reinstalled your hatch but I just wanted to throw some ideas out there.

I finally decided I am far enough along on my project to post some details with my progress. I purchased my Z in September 2008 and drove it until Mar. 2009 when I pulled out the motor and working on the weekends here and there. After pulling out the original L24 motor with the intention of rebuilding it I realized it would cost more money than the old L24 was worth and started looking for an L28 motor to build up. I ended up getting an L28 3.1L stroker motor with an E31 head. Here are some pics of the car just after I purchased it: Original L24 motor: Here are some pics I took of the original motor before it was removed. Old flat top carbs: Motor completely removed: The intended to rebuild the original motor, but after opening it up it was obvious that it needed a major overhaul so I decided I was better off buying an L28 to build up. I ended up going with an 3.1L stroker motor. New L31 motor: The motor is an L28 3.1L stroker motor. LD28 crank, L24 connecting rods, forged flat top pistons with full floating wrist pins, ARP fasteners, E31 head with oversized valves - ported and polished, SU carbs, 6-2-1 header, Aluminium flywheel. Motor being prepped for install: Motor finally installed. All that is left is wiring up my ignition box, connecting fuel lines, installing the battery and radiator.

That's what I figured...Just wanted to be sure before I took everything apart to swap clutch forks.

I have a 1973 240 w/ a 5 speed transmission from a 280z. I recently got a new tranny/motor combo and I am about to install it my 240z but I am running into issues getting the clutch slave cylinder installed on the new transmission. The new transmission is a 5 speed but I am not sure what "type" it is or what year it was made. It has a different clutch fork than the transmission that was on the car that does not to be compatible with the slave cylinder I have (or at least I cannot figure out how to make it line up). Here is a pic of the 5-speed that was in the car when I bought it: Here is the new 5-speed I am trying to get installed: When I bolt up the slave cylinder it lines up with the large hole, but the rod goes right through the middle since it is too large. The bottom does not line up well enough but does hold the rod in place. Here is the slave cylinder I have: What am I missing to get this transmission installed in my car?

Thanks for the quick response, I almost forgot about the need to jump off the ballast resistor. I can only imagine that making a huge difference. I just ordered my 6AL from summit and they included a blaster 2 coil for free!

I am in the middle of swapping an L28 3.1 stroker motor with a 280zx distributer into my 1973 240z. I am planning to use a MSD 6AL ignition box. I currently do not have the e12-80 igntion module so I would like to know if this module is required. I have been trying to find an answer but I keep running into conflicting information regarding wheter or not this module is actually required. Some people say that the e12-80 is required, but others say that the 6AL can just connect directly to the red/green wires on the distributer without any problem. Also, are there any performance or reliability differences between using the e12-80 or not if the module is not required. I am also trying to decide which coil to go with. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I think I will either go with the MSD blaster 2 or Mallory Promaster.

Is that a fiberglass bumper, or did you just have your original bumper painted black? I am trying to decide what I want to do about my old dinged up front bumper and that looks really nice.

The 240z owners manual states the fuel capacity is 15.9 US gallons (13.2 Imp gallons).

I have been planning a full rebuild on my L24 for a while and I am just now starting to look into buying the parts I will need to purchase for this project. I found this engine rebuild kit on ebay and as far as I can tell it has pretty much everything needed for a complete tear down and rebuild. I realise that this kit is probably overkill for what I need but just wanted to know if anyone else has any experience with a kit like this or if you think it is better to source the parts seperately. As far as I can tell it looks like a pretty fair price for what you get. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Nissan-L24-L26-engine-kit-240Z-260Z-1970-74_W0QQitemZ320140527974QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?_trksid=p4506.m20.l1116 Any suggestions or comments are appreciated.