mehas240z

Are these the seats being sold under the name "BB2" I had a great back and forth with them, they are in Great Britain I think? I was looking at these as well and will definitely order a set when I get to that point, mainly based off of the interaction I had with the seller. I cannot check ebay links while at work. These have the old rally look without the astronomical price tag.

Hello, I took apart my dual Weber 32/36 setup due to an issue with the rear being flooded with water. I took the rear apart and catalogued the jets and checked the float level. Then I took apart the front carb and found that the primary main jet was different than the rear carb. This isn't supposed to be like this correct? I ordered them as a kit so I thought was getting a matched pair. The casings have the same stamping. I assume maybe that I got one from a different stock. Maybe one setup for another car/engine? Old inventory mixed with newer? I did read that it is possible that the jetting changed across the years...either way, here are my specs. Front Primary Main - 130 Secondary Main - 145 Primary Air Corrector - 175 Secondary AC - 175 Rear Primary Main - 135 Secondary Main - 145 Primary AC - 175 Secondary AC - 175 For what it's worth I have a set of SU's that I need to get the ZTherapy rebuild kit and fix up. I just wanted to know if this happens or is supposed to be like this? Would a half step Jet size even be noticeable in driving? Thank you,

Here are two profiles and the P/N I didn't look up the P/N and I have gotten other seals that came in the green bag and from what I understand, those were Precision. These are clear bags with nothing other than the sticker you see. If these are in fact resold MSA seals, I couldn't tell you. I don't have the issue of them being too thick as you can see from the above picture of the door closed. The seals are very pliable and hugged all the turns no problem. I have always had to slam my doors, before and after weatherstrip. I think this is more of a function of my door latches than anything else, with no change in force needed due to weatherstrip. *Top two photos have been rotated multiple times in photobucket, can get them to appear correct* Let me know if you have any other questions. Thank you, -Brian

I do not want to post too much duplicate stuff, I added photos to the thread I started in the interior forum. If interested please have a look.

Here are the pictures of the install. Hope this helps anyone. Thank you, -Brian

I never had any luck grabbing the sportage ones and the sportages in the junkyards around me, when I called, are not pick and pull and this one place even told me they do not sell the weatherstrips, go figure. I don't actually have to slam due to the weatherstripping, I just want to clear that up, it's only due to my door itself. The ebay link is just an ad link that the site does, I didn't provide an actual link, don't want people to think I am scamming with evil links. "boldbluesky" is an actual user, he aslo sells arts and crafts items, so if you find his name and are thrown off by his inventory, he sells both, crafts and z stuff. I'll throw some water on it and test for leaks this weekend to provide an update, there is a snow storm here so i'll compare the drivers side to the passengers side in resepct to snow/water inside the frame. Drivers side is completed, passengers is not. Thank you, -Brian

Hello, I also posted this in model specific forums main under the "Kia Weatherstrip Thread" please let me know if I shouldn't post this again here. I was looking for weatherstripping for the doors, door seals etc. I finally bought "New Door seal weatehrstrip (LH+RH) for 1970-1978 Datsun 240z 260z 280z" from Ebay user "boldbluesky" $100 shipped Recieved item. It came in two seperate bags, 1 for each side, labeled. I installed drivers side. Door seal is about 1ft too long and will need to be trimmed at the base where the scuff plate etc installs. Aside from that, no issues. It gripped the seam tightly, formed all radiuses, and tucked up in the corner without issues. I did not use any type of adhesive as I was just test fitting, but it hasn't sagged or anything. Very pliable. My car is not stock or restored so I cannot vouch for doors with perfect hinges, but i had no issues with the door not closing flush like others have posted with other seals. I had to slam it to latch but that is because I was pulling from the door frame itself, i have no handles etc installed. I could see no light coming through around frame so i assume it made a nice seal. I will post pictures when I get home. Hope this helps. *Disclaimer* He did not ask me to post this, I am just posting because I kept reading about issues with door seals and which to get. I have ordered other seals from him, rear window, 1/4 windows, and maybe another one but felt I needed to post about these because of the issues users had with door seals. -Brian

Hello, I was looking for weatherstripping for the doors, door seals etc. I have been following this thread forever. I finally bought "New Door seal weatehrstrip (LH+RH) for 1970-1978 Datsun 240z 260z 280z" from Ebay user "boldbluesky" $100 shipped Recieved item. It came in two seperate bags, 1 for each side, labeled. I installed drivers side. Door seal is about 1ft too long and will need to be trimmed at the base where the scuff plate etc installs. Aside from that, no issues. It gripped the seam tightly, formed all radiuses, and tucked up in the corner without issues. I did not use any type of adhesive as I was just test fitting, but it hasn't sagged or anything. Very pliable. My car is not stock or restored so I cannot vouch for doors with perfect hinges, but i had no issues with the door not closing flush like others have posted with other seals. I had to slam it to latch but that is because I was pulling from the door frame itself, i have no handles etc installed. Just to clear up, it had to slam due to my door, not the weatherstripping. I could see no light coming through around frame so i assume it made a nice seal. I will post pictures when I get home. Hope this helps. *Disclaimer* He did not ask me to post this, I am just posting because I kept reading about issues with door seals and which to get. I have ordered other seals from him, rear window, 1/4 windows, and maybe another one but felt I needed to post about these because of the issues users had with door seals. -Brian

Sorry, guess I don't have a picture. I hope what I said makes sense. I just cut the smaller part of the tab and pushed the wider part in towards eachother and formed a triangle. Bam! I had it Hope this helps. -Brian

Hello, Yes, I had this exact issue. The tabs as you see have 2 levels, a long and short. I nipped off the short one and was left with the two longer tabs on each side. I just bent them inward and instead of having a squared tab shape, I now have what looks like two triangles. Fit fairly decent, a little loose but you can make up the slack by tightening or a piece of foam etc. I am at work but I will post pics of exactly this when i get home, 3-ish hours. But for now, my tabs look like this /\/\ instead of the default squares. -Brian

Oh man then I must be rather super rich because the idle got better when the screw was seated and up until 2 turns out it was fine. Thanks for your help guys, I'll keep you posted.

the mixture screw is the one that has a spring between it and it's seat on the side of the carb that is facing the exhaust manifold. Kind of angled towards the firewall side. The idle adj. screw is the gold on on the firewall side of the carb. It is gold, on mine at least.

Hey there everybody, I followed the directions for adjusting the idle screws and mixture screws and here are my results. I bottomed out the the mixture screws and the engine got to a very good idle compared to how my mechanic had left it. The idle did not roughen up until I hit about 2 turns out. I set the idle speed screw off of that. I noticed though that on these settings without adjusting the idle it was backfiring. It seemed that when I backed the screw out it got worse but only after ~2.25 turns on each carb. I just bottomed them out again and will focus more this weekend as it is getting cold and dark out. I was able to roll on the accelerator more heavily but I am still not able to stomp on it as if I was getting onto a highway or something. What does this tell me? I had a problem determining my results as the guide I was using only covered rough idles up to 2 turns and I didn't experience any of this. Thanks guys, -Brian!

I have included a link to my youtube videos this time to help narrow this down. I have the 280z with a dual DGV setup for a 240z I read some other postings and I feel that it is running rich. I hope the videos can help you guys in letting me know if I am way off base or not. I lack a lot of cash to spend troubleshooting the wrong part/pieces right now and was hoping the videos might help you guys point me in the right direction. The car idles fine, hesitates at 3K and wont pull past, and finally, stalls when I stomp it. Thank you, -Brian! You Tube Channel With Videos

Hey guys, I did a search, couldn't find the answer to my question. Here is my setup and my issues. I have the dual weber dgv setup on my 280 engine. However the kit I bought was the 240/260 kit. (I hope this isn't my issue and can be made to work with my 280 engine) Car runs and my mechanic said it runs a little rich, he would have switched the jets but they were on backorder, he said he ordered them but hasn't called me in months. (Forget him) So the car no runs eh...at best. It idles fine, a little lumpy and might be a timing issue. When I roll on the gas it revs fine. If I stomp on the gas, the rpms drop and it sounds like it is drowning...it will either stall, or it will rev very roughly up through the range, after the rpm drop, and make a few popping sounds. I went through the list that came with the carbs to narrow down issues regarding my situation. I have no fuel issues, that's as far as I got. Where do I go from here? Ignition? I would think that it would run slightly lean if I was using jets for a 240/260 on a 280...I guess I am wrong? Would a video help? Thank You, -Brian!