crerar

Did you have to do anything with your trans tunnel? I know a lot of guys beat the crap out of it, or cut out the resonator/cat hump.

Replaced plugs, wires, Distributor cap, and rotor. No more missing, but still backfiring. Will check timing when I get back in town.

"Is it still EFI? P79 on N42 is not stock. What else has been modified?" Yes it is still EFI. I am aware that the head is not stock. But as far as I know the block and internal parts are. I adjusted the spark plug gap all of them were over .035, I noticed that one was really easy to loosen. Almost like it was hand tight. I probably got in a hurry. Going to start it up and try to find the issue today.

"NewZed How long have you had the car? Could be several things, in addition to what cgsheen said, causing backfiring. I think some people call what yours did, "after fire". Fuel in the exhaust system lighting off." I've had the car for almost a year. I haven't been able to actually drive it, because of some legal reasons. So I just start it up to try and keep it in "working" condition. I'm going to check the plugs and wires tomorrow and start it up to see if I can figure out what is wrong. It was doing the same thing with the muffler that comes with the Pacesetter cat back kit on. I was thinking it was causing "after fire" as well. I was hoping that removing that, and putting a straight pipe on and just running the resonator and glasspack, would solve the issue. The PO did install Taylor wires and NGK spark plugs. Along with an MSD blaster coil. I believe he got most of the parts for this car from MSA. No complaints about his work though. Seems to be a decent guy.

Stock N42 block, P79 head. Factory exhaust with resonator and a Pacesetter exhaust without the muffler. Just the glass pack. It needs a tune. I'm not sure why it's backfiring like that when I rev over roughly 5 grand.

That's the same as me. I don't know if it shows in my picture, but it looks like your car sat lower.

I have a few gremlins to kill before I can start on my interior. At some point during my cars life the battery leaked and rusted through the floorpan. I'm guessing some battery acid or water got inside the frame rail. Though it does seem solid I have a replacement rail from Bad Dog. I was wondering if anyone has any advice on what all may be involved with this. I tried to include some pictures. I know I am going to have to repair a small patch of rust, it runs down the width of the frame rail on the passenger floorpan about 6 inches back from the curve in the firewall. It goes up the firewall to a large hole where I believe the wiring harness passes through. That's it as far as the firewall goes. Other than that the inner fender rusted away from the firewall for the most part.

Z-ya : What size tires and rim offset were you running? SleeperZ : That's what I'm afraid of too. I was looking at Lowering springs from Tokico. They aren't progressive but I wasn't sure if they give any more drop. Since I have Illumina's I think they should match up pretty good.

Thats not my car. Thats how I want mine to sit. I am not sure what wheel/tire combo he is running, but thats is the stance I amlooking for. This is my car as it sits now.

Judging by how many Z's I've seen with this suspension set up, I'm sure this is a dead horse by now, but I've searched and can't seem to find out a legitimate answer. Speculation can only get me so far. I'm hoping to find someone who has gone through the same issue. So here it goes. I have a 1977 280Z with Tokico Illumina 5-ways, and Eibach Pro Kit lowering springs. It has 225/50 R 15 tires. After searching around and seeing many Z cars with the same suspension set up, and tire/rim combination as my car. I have noticed that my Z seems to sit higher than others. I measured the fender clearance and I have 2 1/4" in the front and 2 1/2" in the rear. Judging by the majority of cars I have seen, I'm guessing it should be about an inch lower, give or take a tiny bit. At this time my interior is pretty much completely bare other than dash and headliner. I don't believe it will add that much weight when I get everything complete to lower it down that much. I purchased the car from a member and he seems like a good guy. He put everything on correctly, as far as which springs go where. The car sits level and rides like it's on rails. I just want a little less fender gap. I wan't to go up to 16" rims when I get the money. Any feedback would be awesome. I tried to find a Z with the look I'm trying to get as far as stance goes.

I am looking for a decent, complete L28et for a swap into my 77 280Z. The motor that was in the car when I bought it is running and driving fine, but I want that extra power. The motor doesn't have to be rebuilt or modified but that would be a plus if the price is right. I am mainly looking for a swap that I can work on and maybe do a few bolt on mods before I put it in. If there is anything wrong with my post please let me know before taking it down. I will try to fix the issue.

Do you have the part numbers or a link to them. I have the same sunroof in my car. I was looking for new weather stripping for it also.

I have read some bad reviews of "projector style" headlights. Most of them aren't that expensive though. That may show in the quality. As far as the built in turn signal. I think I can fabricate a grille and integrate in some turn signals to give it a better look. I will look into those projector lights though. Thanks

What's up buddy? I take it they are like the projector ones? Any suggestion on turn signal upgrades. I'm sure i'll catch crap from the purists but, it is my car . I would like to modify it to have a more modern look. I'm looking at rectangular LED marker lights for a trailer. They have a rubber grommet around them that would allow it to have a flush appearance. I would be trying to put those in the side marker light location. I'm still thinking about how to "update" the front turn signal. I have access to a CNC plasma cutter that I was gonna use to make a grill replacement. Maybe I can integrate something into that.

I was wondering if anybody has any experience with these headlights or anything like them. http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-AMBER-TURN-SIGNAL-LED-HALO-ANGEL-EYE-HEADLIGHT-CRYSTAL-CLEAR-LIGHT-BULBS-PAIR-/330968232162?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ANissan%7CModel%3A280Z&hash=item4d0f3e70e2&vxp=mtr I want to update my turn signal lights and would like the look of these so I can remove my turn signals out of my 280 grill and fabricate a plate to fill in the grill area. I am also thinking I could use flush mount side marker lights that are made for Rockcrawlers. My brother put some on his Jeep and they look pretty nice. They come in different sizes and I think I could make them fit with a tiny bit of trimming around the hole. I am trying to update the lights to LED and HID. I am aware that these are not HID headlights. The built in turn signal is what mainly caught my eye. I would like to find a good HID kit that won't blind other drivers. Or if any of you guys have a suggestion for a bulb replacement for the H4 headlight that can give me the same color/look and brightness, for driving purposes, of HID headlights. That would be another option. I know the headlight upgrade question has been asked before and I have searched and found some good info before posting. So please if my post is in the wrong forum let me know and I will do my best to fix it. I am new to this stuff. Looked at forums for a while, just never posted on them.