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Bob_260

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  1. Bob_260
    Good point 240zDan". I did installed adjustable TC rods when I did the Coilovers upgrades & big brake upgrade about a year ago. I don't remember where we set the caster angle when we did the final alignment. I'll have to go back through my records.
  2. Bob_260
    Hey! I want to give you guys an update. Just did the first trial fitting of the Xenon air dam tonight and it clears the tires (235/45/17) with about a 1/4" to spare on hard turns. I may tweek it a bit with a file or a sander as suggested. But so far I have had any rubbing issues, straight out of the box! I've attached a couple of photos. Thanks for your help. I hope this tread can be of assistance to someone else in the future. (Assuming their search skills are better than mine and they can find it
  3. Bob_260
    I was concerned that the back edge was just a thin lip of plastic, which once I cut it off the sides would not be supported (I haven't had the chance to examine one of these air dams in person) but from what you guys have described it sounds more like it's fairly thick lip which can be trimmed (filed down) within reason. It also sounds like the line design may give more room than the factory sheet metal. I think I'll go ahead and order one and fit it up. Worst case I have to sell it and someone else on the forum gets a bargain! I'll try and follow-up on this post as I progress. Thanks for your help!
  4. Bob_260
    Thanks! For the quick response. If I do have a clearance issue, do you know if the Urethane Air Dam can be trimmed or is it "game over'?
  5. Bob_260
    First of all I want to apologize to the group, I'm sure this question has been covered before, but after searching for a couple of hours I haven't had any luck finding the right postings! So I'd appreciate people pointing me in the right direction. I have a 10/73 build 260z with coilovers and I'm running 235/45/17 tires on 17x8.5" Rota rims. No flares, just rolled the fender lip. I'm getting ready to paint the car this summer and I'm considering fitting the Xenon Ducted Urethane Air Dam before painting, but I'm concerned about clearance when the tires are turned to the limits. Originally I had to trim about 3/4" off the lower valence sheet metal to gain enough clearance to eliminate the rubbing. My question is: am I going to have clearance problems with the Xenon Air Dam and if so how much can I trim the Xenon Air Dam without butchering it? Thank for your help and your patience with my search skills!
  6. Bob_260
    How does it look? Initial impression?
  7. Bob_260
    It has been 4 months since the last post. Did anyone ever buy one of these covers and install it? Any comments? Updates?
  8. Bob_260
    Hybrids is a great Forum and the members have shared a tremendous amount of knowledge and experience. So I'd like give back a little and hope it might be useful to someone else! I just completed converting all the lights in my 260z to LED's. The subject has been covered pretty throughly in many other post, so I won't rehash what has already been shared (thanks to those of you who posted on the subject I found it very helpful). One issue that seems to be a problem is the glove compartment light, because the positive voltage is on the outside and negative is on the center post. LED's are particular about their voltage and the standard bulb won't work. But there is a simple solution without having to rewire your car. You can buy on Amazon (I'm sure there are many sources) an LED that is about 2" X 2" and it has an adaptor for different types of sockets. When you connect the adaptor simple reverse the plug and the problem of the reverse bias voltage is is fixed! The LED has a nice piece of 3m double sticky tape and mounts out of sight to the top of the glove compartment and is completely out of sight and does a great job lighting the glove compartment. I've included a couple of pictures. I hope someone fines this helpful
  9. Bob_260
    As part of the suspension & handling upgrades I decided to install the Competition Steering Wheel from MSA. It maintains the overall OEM look of the car but is about 1.5 inches small on diameter as well as being thicker to grip. The original wheel has a vintage feel, but did not have the class of being a wooden wheel. It felt thin and large. The original steering wheel on my car was 15" in diameter, the new wheel 13.5". I know it will increase the steering effort. If I did the math correctly, it will result in about a 10% increase in effort. If I had to apply 10lbs of force on the old wheel I'll need to apply 11.1 lbs on the new wheel. (Not a crazy increase IMO). In addition to the improved tactical feel, the other BIG improvement I've noticed is how much easier, getting in and out of the car is. I'm 6'4" and that additional 3/4" of clearance between the wheel and the front of the seat is noticeable. I've attached a few photos. Removing the old wheel and installing the new wheel was remarkably easy. I put a small amount of anti-Seize lug on the splines just in case I need to remove the wheel again in the future.
  10. Bob_260
    I forgot the picture of the car with the rear suspension is done. I drove it for a few days to make sure everything was OK and nothing fell off. Now the front suspension is off the car and all the parts are at the powder coater getting done.
  11. Bob_260
    Here is another post that I hope might help someone that is new to the Z Community. I wanted to put as much rubber on the ground as possible without having to add flares. After a lot of digging it seemed that I would be able to go with the Rota RB 17x8.5 +4mm offset rim with Dunlop 234/45/17 Direzza ZII Star Spec. (I went with 17 to insure clearance for Stage IV disc brake kit I bought from Silvermine Motors) To gain the wheel well clearance I needed I bought a tool from Eastwoods for $99 to roll the fender lips. It worked great! Gave a very professional look. I also did a coil over conversion to gain a little extra clearance and to allow me to dial-in the ride height. Attached are a couple of pictures that might help clear up some of the clearance questions that others might. One shows a "before" with the original coil springs and the others show the "after" with the coil overs. The rear suspension now done and everything worked! No tire clearance issues, no problems bottoming out. I've also attached a before/after half done photo so you can seen how it's shaping up.
  12. Bob_260
    Dat260: do you recommend some aftermarket components that enable toe, camber, caster adjustments? I'm planning installing camber plates on the front. I've seen some eccentric bushings that say allow for adjustments (caster I think it was). Are these worthwhile? Necessary? Can anyone comment?
  13. Bob_260
    I pulled my spindle pins for two reasons. The first reason is that as I work my way through the brake and suspension upgrade project, I am powder coating all the suspension components. It gives me the opportunity to inspect virtually every area of the underside of the car. The second reason is that I want to replacing the +40 year old rubber bushing. After all the effort to get the spindle pins out I will apply plenty on Never Sieze!
  14. Bob_260
    I have a question for the group. Everything I read says there are no alignment adjustments for the rear. Is that really the case or should I take the car to specialty shop to have it checked?
  15. Bob_260
    Sorry, I meant to attach a couple of photos to my last post
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