Jump to content
HybridZ

NagaSadow

Members
  • Posts

    26
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hickory, NC

NagaSadow's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

0

Reputation

  1. Well, to be clear, I'm really not too worried about an exhaust system. I'm probably just going to put some headers on and that's about it. I'll have to look into the differences between the T56 and 4L60E, but if they mount up the same then I have more options. Also, there seems to be two JCI kits. I found one for $300 I believe on Broken Kitty and one for $600. Wasn't sure what the major differences were, so maybe someone has experience with that enough to inform me. I'm just looking to go as bare bones as I can. I'll worry about the A/C later, but I did take the compressor when I picked up the engine.
  2. The title basically says it all, but I'm looking for the best option for a swap with a LM7 and a 4L60E. I'm looking at this kit from JTR, this engine mount from Dirty Dingo, and this kit from JCI. I'm not really sure which kit is the easiest to work with and the best value. Obviously the mount from Dirty Dingo would need some sort of mounts for the transmission, but it's bolt in and adjustable. Opinions and knowledge would be great. My car is a '77 280Z, just in case that makes any kind of difference with any kits.
  3. Given the size of the FX1 Pro's that you have, do you think the NRG FRP 310's or 300E's might fit in a 1977 280z? Of course with tunnel bashing and whatnot. For comparison, the FX1's are 23 inches at the shoulder bolsters, and have a 20 inch base. The 310's are 24 inches at the shoulders and 20 inches at the base. The 300E's are 23.25 inches at the shoulders and 21.5 inches at the base. I ask because you said the fit was cozy, and there wasn't much room between the seat and your door, along with the e-brake being snug. Essentially, was there anything you could have done to squeeze out a little more room? If anyone else has some insight, feel free to share.
  4. I was reading a lot of threads saying that the Comp Cam's are better than the Schneider's, so I figured I'd ask. Is there a Cam that would be recommended for similar power that they claim? As in power from 2000-6000 RPM.
  5. http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CC&Product_Code=N6HECAM&Category_Code=NISSAN Anyone used the 84-119-6 can or know if it will work well with the L28?
  6. NRG RS-T100-GY-L Type-R Gray Cloth Racing Seat+Adjustable Slider (Left/Driver Side Only) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0116GNQ0C/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_yFhOwbRPBFTBF I have a 1977 280z, would these fit without having to smash the tunnel?
  7. Yeah, I understand that it won't just be as simple as an intake, headers, and an exhaust. However, I was looking for information about which parts would support 200-300hp and then what I'd have to do beyond that. I listed $2k as the budget, but I should have been more clear about that. What I meant is that if I have $2k right now, which parts would be reccomended to work with now to eventually build up to 220hp. It sounds like I'd be better off pulling a cheap L28ET from a junkyard, but in NC we don't have many Datsun's to choose from. So, I will read the two links that you guys provided, then I will come back and edit this with any questions I have. Okay, so I went and read the first few posts, and it goes into a little more depth but still says what you guys have said. From what I gather, the best way to break into the 200's would be an intake, delete the AFM, go with an EMS like MegaSquirt, upgrade the pistons for a higher CR, and upgrade the exhaust. All of which seems to be doable as individual upgrades until everything is done. The camshaft upgrade seems like it would have to be the last upgrade since the stock computers can't handle larger cams, but I'll have to search some to find out how worth it the upgrade would be. That's essentially the information I was looking for. I'm sure there is other stuff that would help, but that is a start.
  8. Ever heard of or used these? http://m.tirerack.com/tires/TireDetailsServlet?tireMake=Toyo&tireModel=Proxes+R1R&partnum=245WR5PR1RV2
  9. Any specific year or model that you pulled yours from?
  10. I know there's a thread on seats that fit, but how did the Integra's fit and how much support do they offer compared to stock? Within the first week I had to change the passenger side caliper, as it gave no pressure, and I also had the system bled because there were pockets of air preventing braking. But, again, the rotors I have are kinda worn and need to be turned or preferably replaced, so I don't think I'm going to get Wilwoods just yet.
  11. So, I'm back after owning the car since mid October. After a few weeks, the carpet started to smell, so I pulled it out and it was just junk. So, I pulled the carpet out of the hatch area, and will be pulling the rest of the carpet out so I can start fresh. After living with the car, I still think the braking system could be a little better. I'm thinking vented rotors (the current ones need to be turned or replaced anyway). I was thinking of getting some braided lines, because it's not a huge amount of money, although the car is just a daily driver for now. The second issue is definitely the seats, because my girlfriend has back issues and she can't stand the stock seats. So, if anyone knows of comfortable seats that will fit and cost >$300, that'd be great. A non-leather material is preferred, by the way. So, that's $110 for rotors, possibly $80 for brake lines, $300 for seats, and then the rest will be to get the air conditioning fixed and performance. That being said, I'd like 220-300hp or something reasonable out of the N/A engine. I'm just looking to do it over time with parts that will help each other. What would the best intake, headers, exhaust, etc be for the goal? If there are any factory parts that are restrictive and not necessary, let me know so I can take them off. Keep in mind that I don't have to pass emissions or anything, but the exhaust needs to be under 93 decibels. Budget is let's say $2k for now, since it'll be over time and can be expanded. Part manufacturers/models would be nice if certain parts are suggested. Thanks for looking.
  12. I could always remove the bumper if I can't find one for a reasonable price. This link is the Z I'm wanting mine to look like http://imgur.com/a/Y7MRp
  13. Alright, well I suppose I'll try some new pads first and see how the back brakes are before I decide to replace or convert to rotors and calipers. I was just reading how the brakes were something most people upgraded, and the experience I had wasn't good, so my assumption was that they weren't good overall. Then I read about the brake conversion kits and thought that was only further proof. I didn't mean to sound snobby or anything, it was just an assumption based on build threads and YouTube build logs.
  14. I've already driven the car a couple of times, and I'm used to cars like a 2000 Mustang with good brakes. What I experienced was very unresponsive brakes that had to be pressed fairly far to stop the car while going 45mph. So, that may not be indicative of how the brakes should be, but I wasn't impressed. I wouldn't be talking about upgrading things that I don't think needed improvement, I am trying to keep under a budget after all.
  15. That just saves me money, so thanks for the input. Is there a major difference in MPG, or more of the same meaning that I'd have to do other modifications to notice it?
×
×
  • Create New...