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depair

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    Chester, MD

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  1. OK, this is how I did it..Broke the gland nut top off trying to remove it. I cut a groove in the remaining surface and took my air chisel and used heat and it came free. Of course the cartridge was frozen..real bad. Soaked it with penetrating oil over night. Next day, I welded a cast iron plate with a hole in the middle to the top of the strut. I then hung it upside down in a large vise grabbing it by the collar near the spindle. Its real strong down there and you can really clamp down on it. I then heated the area of the strut near the gland nut...not too much..everything pointed away from me at the floor. Next I took my maul and beat the crap out it..had to reweld the plate two times...each time stronger. Finally, it moved. Got a large pipe wrench and grabbed it and turned it in the tube. A couple of more wacks and it was free. Hope this helps.
  2. I'm dealing with this problem now...after a big battle with the gland nut, I now have a frozen strut! Any updates or additional advice or techniques?
  3. The results are positive. the 280Z TO collar from ZCar Depot works perfectly with the newer "short type" pressure plate that is widely available these days as OEM replacements for the 240Z. I chose to use an early clutch fork with the adjustable rod and an early slave cylinder to give me the most latitude of adjustment. The combo works very well and the new clutch is functioning beautifully. Thanks to everyone who responded.
  4. Got the clutch kit from a different vendor. The kit is made by a different manufacturer, but it is the same pressure plate as the one I already have, i.e, short type...so I will wait for the 280Z TOB collar and post how it all goes together.
  5. Yes, that is exactly what happened. The pressure plate in the new kit was, I guess, the new "short" type. I used the original TOB collar from My early 1971 car. Not realizing the pressure plate difference...because this is my first Z and every vendor lists just one type of standard clutch kit for 1970-73 cars, I put it back in the car and was only getting partial disengagement. I pulled the tranny out and measured as mentioned in this thread and it was way off. So now I'm waiting for a 280Z TOB collar to make up the difference. I also ordered another clutch kit from a different vender to see if the pressure plate is different. I also have a 1973 engine/transmission that has the non adjustable clutch fork set up and the TBO collar was different from the 1971...it was about .25 inches longer...so there must have been different pressure plates used during production. None of this is ever mentioned when ordering clutch kits today! I will be installing the new components this weekend and post the results. Thanks for responding!
  6. I'm having the same issue. I just replaced the clutch, pressure plate and TO bearing in my 71 Z. Assembled everything carefully. I also replaced the MC and Slave. Adjusted the slave to FSM spec. Bled system, adjusted the MC clevis to spec. Tested the vehicle...clutch will not fully disengage. Can't shift the transmission. The only way to get the car moving was to start it in gear....the clutch would partially disengage and allow a start, but then you can't shift when moving. Put it up on the lift and removed the rubber inspection cover on the bell housing...could see that everything looked ok and the TO bearing was engaging the pressure plate...the problem was that the clutch fork was travel limited by the bell housing opening and would not let the plate to fully disengage. The trans will have to come out...I suspect it is a problem with the replacement clutch kit. Must be a different pressure plate diaphragm spring height. Any thoughts? Were there different pressure plates used in the early cars? My production is 4/71.
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