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Scott_M67

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About Scott_M67

  • Birthday 04/02/1958

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  • MSN
    scott

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Greater Seattle, WA
  • Interests
    Mechanical Engineer, Owner Scott's Vette Talk Corvette Restoration and Parts, Harley's-2004 Deuce, Son's '77 280z turbo build/resto-rod.

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  1. HI, I'm looking to buy a complete SDS EM4F system in excellent used condition. Thank you, Scott
  2. I would use Southern Polyurethanes Epoxy primer, best deal on the market. Now with primer you have a "X" day window to top coat, typcially 3-7 days depending upon manufacturer, if you go beyond that 7 days you will need to scuff the car down with red scotch brite pads, re-shoot primer and then topcoat.
  3. As already stated the location has nothing to do with the color, the body work underneath has everything to do with it. BC/CC is the most forgiving for a garage paint job.
  4. Given the fact I paid $650 for a new NOS rear quarter I'd say grab them and run.
  5. To prepare your car for primer, either use stripper or sand the car with 80 grit. Most epoxy primers require 80-120 grit for best adhesion and will fill 80 grit scratches just fine. Spray can primer more than likely will have to come off before you apply a real automotive primer to it or you may have solvent compatibility issues. The same goes for the rust preventer you are applying, not all epoxies or primers will play well with it. Its tough trying to do this job well and still drive the car since any primer you are now applying will be contaminated with road grime and need to come off before shooting the entire car, and primers are not UV resistant like the top coats are.
  6. You said you wanted a cheap way to do it, do you have a die grinder and burr bits, dremel tool, or even a rat tail file and you can do it by hand.
  7. Here is a pic of the 2+2 rails. How does $40 sound plus whatever shipping comes to. Scott
  8. I've got a nice set of 2+2 drip rails.
  9. A11-600-000... I'm still interested in one shipped to 94587. Thanks. Roy

    1. Scott_M67

      Scott_M67

      Hi Roy, can you email me at scott_marzahl@hotmail.com its way easier

  10. I agree, I would DA that car with 80 grit down to clean metal and shoot epoxy primer on it, NO spray cans.
  11. That is an awesome looking Z car, Atomic Orange is one of my top favorite colors. My rear valence is beyond repair, I cut it off just after the step down from the tail lights. I dont think I can get these two curves right and will need some help from someone or have to get a shop to roll me this piece. I'm hoping to talk my son into a shaved rear end but he is asking to help put a 240 rear bumper on this 280. Just means more work relocating the bumper brackets since the right side bolt interferes with the body around the filler neck and of course reinforcing the new panel in order to mount the rear brackets. Might have to try the MSA rear panel, not sure its cut high enough though.
  12. I might give it a try, not sure, steel is cheap so all I can do is try and maybe screw it up. I sent you a PM
  13. Has anyone rolled their own rear valence panel? With the compound curve it seems like one would need to use an English wheel or be really good with a bag and hammer.
  14. How much of the column do you need, I have bare bones column, no plastic or switches
  15. Are these the bezels you are looking for, I just removed them from a '77 2+2?
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