Belvedere

Well, I'm going to resurrect this thread a bit. I've got a 91 Z32 and a LQ4 out of Chevy truck that I aquired. I'll be replacing the intake, maybe swap heads with LS3 parts and believe it or not an automatic. I've noticed that Holley now has a rather nice engine swap pan that should help on some clearance issues. My big concern is going to be fitting the 4L80E in the tunnel. I actually would prefer a 6L80E, but those things almost need a zip code they are so big. Having 2 overdrives and a 4.027 low gear makes it very appealing. I'm going to build NA and make sure I have room for twins, to be added later. I am more of a ProCharger/Roots guy and will certainly be looking at that option. I've seen rear mounted turbos a few times and need to research that a little bit too. I would say oiling the turbos will be the big issue, that's just a thought though. I'm more of a drag racer and have no desire to row the gears. Even thought the Z32 is a little bit portly, a powerglide would still be the best bet for drag racing, but I would like to drive this on the street. The overdrive tranny is my only option, and my experiance with the 700R4 and the 4L60E is they don't like much more than 400Hp. I've told the 6.0 is capable of 1200hp, don't plan on getting there, but 7-800 is certainly a goal. Duttweiler used 200R4 trannys and tortured the crap out of them. A 9 second Buick has to be a little hefty and he made those live. Again, research needs to be done there. I keep thinking some one will come up with a kit, but I just keep waiting. Time to move on my own.

From what I've seen of the stock Z32 5 speeds I don't think that would be a good idea. Not sure they would hold up to the torque of a V8, even a little one. I'm considering doing the LS swap too, I'm not really wanting to go manual and right now I'm looking at using and the 4L80E. I want the overdrive and I want a tranny that will hold up to a boosted 6.0L. Not sure the tranny tunnel will allow the big automatic. May have to "massage" the tunnel to work.

It was mentioned before, this is a "jet" boat, and at any given rpm you will only be able to pump just so much water. It wouldn't matter if you ran a blown 572 at any given rpm it will only pump the same amount of water. It might get there quicker but it really use a lot of fuel. So build as much cid and you can get for the torqe(406). Given this is a marine application, and cool water is readily available, I would probably fill the water jackets to just below the water pump ports on each side. This would eliminate core shift in the cylinder walls. I would also look for a 2 bolt main block and have it machined for 4 bolt billet main caps. I never had much luck with the stock 4 bolt main blocks. I also would throw the little short stock rods away or weld them all together to make a nice little anchor. Use at least 5.7's or 6 inch rods. This will lessen side pressure on the pistons and walls. Some say a longer rod will make more hp at higher rpms. I'm still in debate on that, but the advantages of longer rods will out weigh any thought you may have on short stock rods.

I have 700r4 tranny behind my 89 350TPI motor. Low gear in a 700R4/4L60E is 3.06 with an over drive of 0.70. Low gear in a TH350 is about 2.48 with high gear being 1:1. The V8 will have a little more torque than you think. I typically will leave in low gear and hit second about at just about the tree or even start out in second when I use street tires. Drag radials will allow you a little more room to stay in low before shifting. 3.54's will give you a fairly good launch with an overdrive transmission. Figure 3.06 x 3.54= 10.83 for launch ratio. To get that launch ratio with a TH350 you would have to have 4.36 gears. (10.83/2.48 = 4.36) Ok that's cool, now figure the over drive part of it. 3.54 x 0.70=2.48. So with a TH350 overall gear ratio in high would be 3.54 with an overdrive tranny it would be like having 2.48's in the rear. Therefore...sigh...if you use a TH350 I would go with low gears like 3.90 or 4.11 and complain about the gas miliage because you will buzz the V8 going down the highway. If you go with the over drive tranny use 3.54 or 3.70's, get a harder launch and better fuel economy. At 70mph I'm taching a little over 2000rpm. The only bad side to an over drive tranny is they don't like much over 450hp in stock form. They can be built for more. I also run a lock up 3000rpm torque converter built by Chance Racing Converters. It made my car launch a little too hard with stock tires, but softened the hard hitting shifts at low rpms around town. The shift kit is still quite present at upper rpms. The lock up converter helps out in overdrive and make passing up high price gas a little easier. My motor is bone stock (100k+ miles on it.). The car weighs 2805lbs. It runs 13.0s all day and has 1.75 sixty foot times. It also gets about 28mpg on the highway. For some real Banzia running find a set of 3.36 gears. That's like having 2.35 gears with the overdrive!!!

I have just read this thread for the first time...I'm still sitting here with my head in my hands. I have swapped out small blocks for big blocks in all kinds of Chevy's over the years. It is pretty much a bolt in operation. If a sbc fits, most generally a bbc will bolt in. I've been trying to figure out how to mount turbos or go LS1 in my 77. I don't know why a fat block never entered my mind. Boy, do I feel like a dweeb. I have raced bbc's for years and have a pile of parts all over the garage.....I need a beer. Time to change direction.

You will hear people say the 327 was the best motor ever made, and have to listen about their dad, brother, cousin or uncle that had an Impala or Nova or Camaro etc. that ran circles around the big motor cars. Truth is they were a good little motor, but the tires and suspension back then could not handle the torque of a long stroke motor ie.350,396,402,454, and the 327 made it's power in the upper rpms. The low end was not there to blow away the tires. That's not quite the case any more. If ole dad had raced a car that was running some of todays BFG's or other tires he would have had a real good look of the tail lights. Still, I like the 327 for it's abillity to rev in the upper range. It's cool. Just remember that high rpms kill more motors than anything. You also have to spend extra money to keep parts in your motor to make those rpms. bigger springs, light valves, roller everything. Why not build a bigger cubic inch motor, not turn a million rpms, which will make it last longer and cost less. If you have the bucks and like to hear it sing...find a small journal 327 and stick a 283 crank in it. That will give you a 302, and 9000 rpm shift points are on the way. If you build them right, you can wind them tight.

1977 280Z I used a JTR kit. 1989 5.7 TPI out of an IROC Z28,set for 1990 computer with MAP sensor, motor is all stock, and in bad need of a rebuild. 100k+ unknown miles on it. Cylinder number 8 is low on compression. Accell 24lb injectors, TPI throttle body air foil cold air intake shorty headers Dual 2.5 exhaust, 40 series Flowmasters 84 700R4 tranny with B&M shift kit stock R180 single spin w/3.54 gears Stock springs and struts 6 point chrome moly roll bar. 300ZX wheels and tires In this condition the car has run 13.03 @ 102.5mph and gets about 22 miles to the gallon. I'm about to install a 92 tranny with TCI parts and a 9.5 lock up converter. I also have an R200 LSD out of a turbo car that I installed 3.90 gears. I have CV joint axles and plan to use the Modern Motorsports adapters. The suspension just needs to go in a hole some where. I'm not sure what springs or struts to put in, I figure anything will be an improvement. The motor will need some tlc before too long. I'm considering a 383 kit.

So far my Z has run a best of 13.06 with a tired 350TPI (one cylinder has 70lbs all the others have 130-140lbs of pressure), and a 700R4 tranny. I have 3.45 gears in a R180 single spin. The R200 with 3.90s is in the garage waiting for the inevitable to happen. Still the motor is completely stock, just headers and a K&N filter. I talked with Marty Chance of Chance Racing Converters and he told me about a new converter they had designed and put in his Camaro. It went from 14.88 to 13.75 with only the converter change, but (you knew there was a "but") this 9.5" converter is a Lock-up design. So when you hit high gear, you still get gas milage on the highway. He said that being 9.5" made it much lighter and frees up some HP. It stalls to 2800 and flashes to 3200. This seems like the best of both worlds to me. I hope to have it in before the track closes for the year. I'll let you know how it works out. Wheels Up! PB

Ok! I'm getting on this train a little late and I'm a little slow and I don't take hints well (male dysfunctions I'm told) but, a 240sx, with 4.08 gears VLSD would have an R200v. R200Vs are not acceptable and/or R200Vs do not swap well?!?! R230Vs come from Q45s and certain 300zx and are distinguished by having 6 bolts instead of 5...maybe?!?!?! I have a 77 280Z with an R180 that will not last long once it hits the streets. I'm trying to get my ducks in a row before the inevidable happens. A single spinning 3.54 gear is not real apealing either.

I was under the assumption the R230 was in Q45's. What year(s) was the R230 used in the 300ZX. I know where there is an 88 with no motor or tranny, and again the price is low.

I have a freind who has inherited an 88' 240SX, The price is right (free) for the rear end. I understand 200SX has an R200 rear, but I've never heard any mention of the 240SX. I noticed the rear had a finned rear cover. that led me to belive it might be a viscus rear. Any one have a thought? I do like the seats, I may snatch them too. Thanks