evan1242

you might as well go ahead and do the Z31 maf, and ecu swap.

pop in a L28et, and a t-5 manual tranny and there will be no problem spinning the tires.

i got the Tokico shocks, and the lowering springs from MSA. along with a master bushing kit, and i have to say that it is probably one of the best things i have done to my car performance wise. you get much better traction in all aspects of driving. off the line, there is a huge difference because you dont get that huge dip in the rear end when you take off.

try this link. it is not exactly the same. but it should be very similar. (scroll down the page until you see the diagrams) http://reviews.ebay.com/NXS-Manual-Boost-Controller-Installation-Guide_W0QQugidZ10000000004194851

i used a bit of PB blaster and a big pair of channel locks.

i guess you don't have a accurate boost guage? if not really need to get one. at least a cheap one just to be sure that you are not over boosting, and causing detonation. don't go over 10psi when everything else is stock.

the best place to put in a boost controller in a 280zx turbo is BETWEEN THE LITTLE "Y" THAT COMES OF THE TURBO AND GOES TO THE WASTE GATE. you want the boost controller to be the first thing that actually "see's" the boost. this means before the throttle body. this will keep the waste gate closed longer, and sooner, so you will make boost quicker, while not spiking at high RPMs.

it is fine to cap that one off. either of those two hoses are a great place to splice in the boost controller. it will help cut down spiking to a minimum.

just make sure that none of the printle caps are broken, and if any of them are, take them off. they don't have to be replaced, just removed. also make sure that the two o-rings are put on the injector, and that there are no extras still in the intake manifold. there is one large o-ring, and one smaller. it is obvious where they go. and you might as well replace the connectors while you are at it, the fuel line that goes from the injector to the rail. (make sure that you use 5/16 fuel injection hose, because carburation hose will break off on the inside and possibly gum up an injector(s) )

the boost controller is basically "spliced" into the line that goes from the turbo to the waste gate actuator. all the controller does is regulate how much boost that the actuator see's. so if you adjust the boost controller to where the actuator see's less boost than is actually present, then the waste gate will stay closed longer and you will in return produce more boost. (make sure to start on the lower boost setting so that you don't over boost and mess any thing up)

yea, those are definitely not stock 280zx seats. they are a little similar though.

if you have a 240z, 260z, 280z, or a 280zx, then you want to just use the regular old NGK's. these engines just seem to run better on NGK's than any other type of plug. (this is if you are using the stock ignition system of course)

you need to clean all of your electrical connections, and make sure that all of them are tight. i would recommend replacing all of the fuel injector connectors and the one that goes to the air regulator, and the one that goes to the CHTS. have you checked your fuel pressure yet? or the mechanical and electrical timing? also, make sure that you have a nice tight vacuum conection going to your FPR. it can give you trouble if you dont have a really good/tight vacuum hose on there. these are just some things to get you started if you have not already. good luck!! as for JSM, you need to actually take some time/effort to get down in there and clean the connections that go directly to the ECU. there are three of them, and make sure that they are nice and tight. with you kicking the ECU, you will probably ruin it over time.

that sounds good, but the only thing is that i really don't want to take the head off myself. (in other words, i don't want to really screw it all up) doing this work is the most i have ever really done on a car. (intake/exhaust manifold gasket) i don't think the head needs any other work except for getting that hole tapped out. my compression numbers are all from 142 to 144. i would be willing to do it if you have done it before and could help me. thanks again

hey guys car = 1983 280 ZX Turbo. so far i have gotten the intake and exhaust manifold off, and the turbo is still attached to the down pipe because i cant get it to break free. but anyways, i was wondering where and what kinds of shops should i trust to make sure that my exhaust manifold is done right? also, i have 2 broken exhaust manifold studs. the first one is the one that is just under the t-stat housing. (it is broken off inside the head) the second one is the one closest to the fire wall (number 6 cylinder) this one still has plenty of thread to get a hold of, but i think that i am still going to heat up really hot because i don't want to take the risk of breaking that one off in the head too. any thoughts/ideas would be great! thanks