nocones

I'm looking for a set of steelies and original hub caps for a 70 240z Located in California. let me know if you have any.

Your problem sounds like it is related to the ammeter gauge wiring. When you take that gauge out, you have to connect the two fat white wires together so that circuit is still complete, just as you suggest. I had the same problem and now all is good. Good luck!

I'm replacing all my gauges with new Speedhut guages and noticed that there are two big wires that feed the ampmeter. A white one and the other is white w/red stripe. Since I am not going to be using a voltmeter or ampmeter, do I need to do anything with these wires other than cap them off? I'm worried that they might be connected in series and that something downstream will not work.

sorry about the multiple postings!! I was getting a server error everytime I tried to post it and didn't think it was going through!

I'm about to wire up the Check Engine Light/Malfunction Indicator Lamp too and am pretty sure that the PCM provides ground and the other wire for the light goes to switched power/ignition. That is my interpretation of the LS1 wiring diagram anyway. However, I'ld like to hear confirmation of this from someone else. I've attached the portion of the wiring diagram which shows the connection. The Malfunction Indicator Lamp is shown on the top left corner. 2000 wiring camaro 5.7L 4of4.pdf

Alright, I've made some progress lately. Last night, I tried starting it and what do you know? It started right up on the first try. Then I tried turning it off and it kept running. Eventually pulled the power to the fuel pump to get it to turn off. I think I found my problem but don't know how to fix it. When I originally tested my wiring for switched power, the fat white wire with red stripe (that was originally connected to the datsun alternator) was switched. So I connected everything up using this as my switched source. Now that I check it once everything is connected, it is getting continuous power which I assume has to be why the engine won't turn off. Is this the wrong wire to connect for switched power or did I connect something wrong and give it continuous power? What other wires are ok for switched power? will the wires that went to the coil/ballast resistor work even though they are hot in the on position but not in the start position?

When I look at this image, it looks as though the 3/4" connection might be the return line since it is the one that is toward the front of the engine...assuming the image is accurate with respect to actual location of the inlet/outlet relative to one another. On the Datsun heater core side I'm guessing that the inlet is the bottom one (on the firewall) that attaches to the heater valve on the side of the heater core. If this logic is correct then that would mean I should connect the 5/8" line from the LS1 water pump (the one toward the rear of the car) to the bottom of the two hoses that go through the firewall. Anybody care to agree or disagree?

Getting close to finishing my LS-1 swap and am trying to figure out which heater hose from the water pump goes to which heater core connection on my 73 240z. I tried searching but just when I thought I found the answer in this thread (first it says that the 3/4" connection is an outlet and the 5/8" is the return) http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=118413&highlight=heater+hose after reading further, someone says it runs the opposite way. So, is the 3/4" line on the waterpump an inlet or outlet? Which hose does this connect to on my heater core at the firewall, the one closer to the center of the car? Thanks

Ok, that makes sense but I think I am still misunderstanding something. For my LS-1 setup, why do I need this wire instead of one that is hot in both the "on" position and the "start" position? Is this what I should be using for my switched positive line? I believe the only switched positive connection I need to make is one that goes to the relays for the fuel pump, injectors, and radiator fans. By the way, thanks for the tip of using the voltmeter with battery connected to the system to look for all the wires. Worked like a charm.

I found this wire, but what is it used for? The fuel injector relays get connected to switched 12v correct? But I was under the impression that you want the lead to them hot in the on position and in the start position. I've found other wires that are hot in both "on" and "start" like the fat white/red wire that used to go to the alternator. Another thing I haven't quite figured out...I'm running wiring from pigtails on my T56 to the ECM since the tranny wires were mistakenly removed from the ECM plugs when the guy modified my wiring harness. In particular the skip shift solenoid and the reverse lockout solenoid. Both these pigtails on the transmission side have two wires. One of the wires from each goes to the red 44 and blue 79 pin but where does the second wire from each connector on the transmission go? Does it go to 12v or ground? Does it matter if the two wires on the pigtail are reversed? Since my pigtails aren't the same color as what the wiring diagram calls out, I don't know which wire is which.

Looking for a set of companion flange adapters for my R200 diff/Z31 CV Axle/280z companion flange setup on my 73 240z. I'd buy them directly from Ross (Modern Motorsports) if I could get in touch with him. If you have a set you want to unload, let me know. These are the particular ones I'm looking for: 70 ->78 Z - 300ZX CV Conversion Package http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=56 Billet Z31 CV/Companion Flange Adaptors http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=46

Ok, I think that all makes sense. What/where is the ballast resistor? Is that the thing sitting below the coil? I figured out the second set of wires going to the transmission is for the neutral switch. I have no idea what that is for and don't think I'll need these wires for the new setup. Is there anything I have to do special with the wires that were running to the coil due to the way the tach and ignition is wired? From what I understand (which isn't very much) the tach is connected in series with the coil and ignition. I know when I previously disconnected my tach, the car wouldn't start. Now that the coil is gone, I'm guessing that the car won't start unless the series is completed somehow. Am I totally off base? I also haven't been able to find a definitive answer to what the little box (relay?) is that is attached to the firewall right next to the battery? Thank you guys for all the help. It is much appreciated. I'm sure I'll have more questions as things progress. Believe me, I have been searching on google and LS1tech and haven't been able to find the answers to any of this. Probably not using the right keywords. Seems like there should be an electrical "how-to" for what wiring goes where when combining the LS1 system with the Datsun system.

Let me start off by apologizing for my electrical ignorance. This is the one part of the swap that I feared the most. Ok, just to make sure I have this straight. I should run a positive lead from the alternator to the starter and another positive lead from the same post on the starter to the positive battery terminal? Which wire gets connected to the little connector on the starter? I'm assuming this is where the wire from the ignition switch goes? What color is that wire? And what about ground? I thought the original wiring had a ground wire running from the battery to the starter. The LS1 starter doesn't get a ground connection right? If not, what does the negative battery terminal get connected to? To power the inside of the car, which wires get connected and what do they get connected to? It seems like if they are connected directly to the battery, they will always be on, even if the car is off. Another related question: The stock 4 spd transmission had two sets of wires going to it. I think the rear one is for reverse lights, correct? What is the front set of wires for, the tachometer? What is the best method of connecting the reverse lockout switch on the T56 to make that work? Ok, that's all I can think of right now, my brain hurts!

I'm doing an LS1 swap into my 73 240z. I have the GM PCM reprogrammed and engine harness that I sent off to be modified with fuses and relays added for fans, fuel pump, etc. I should be set from this end. However, it is the Datsun electrical that I'm unsure of. I'm aware of the speedo and tach issues and have that figured out. When I pull the stock engine, there will be wires for the alternator and starter hanging there. What do I need to do to make sure that all the interior electrical and lights still work when I'm done? Is it just a matter of connecting the old alternator and starter leads to the new alternator and starter? Are there any other changes that need to be made to the stock system? Is the stock voltage regulator still needed?

I have a 73 240z with the wonderful flat top carbs and have a set of 3 screw round tops that I want to swap in. The car is pretty much all original. I have been searching everywhere (probably with the wrong keywords) and can't find anything that shows how to do it step by step. My main concern is which lines can I delete because they are not needed. There is a lot of plumbing in there related to emissions and carb water cooling that I want to get rid of. Anybody have any advice of where I can go to help walk me through this?